---
product_id: 3783303
title: "Curt Manufacturing 56217 Trailer Hitch Wiring T-Connector for Toyota Highlander"
brand: "curt"
price: "€ 108.03"
currency: EUR
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 13
category: "Curt"
url: https://www.desertcart.hr/products/3783303-curt-manufacturing-56217-trailer-hitch-wiring-t-connector-for-toyota
store_origin: HR
region: Croatia
---

# Plug & play install 30 min install time Protected powered circuit Curt Manufacturing 56217 Trailer Hitch Wiring T-Connector for Toyota Highlander

**Brand:** curt
**Price:** € 108.03
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🔗 Hook up your Highlander with zero stress and max style!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Curt Manufacturing 56217 Trailer Hitch Wiring T-Connector for Toyota Highlander by curt
- **How much does it cost?** € 108.03 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.hr](https://www.desertcart.hr/products/3783303-curt-manufacturing-56217-trailer-hitch-wiring-t-connector-for-toyota)

## Best For

- curt enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted curt brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Quick 30-Minute Setup:** Get back on the road faster with minimal hassle.
- • **Effortless Plug & Play:** No cutting or splicing—just connect and go.
- • **Durable Dust Cover Included:** Keeps your connector clean and ready for action.
- • **Tailored for Toyota Highlander:** Custom-fit for 2008-2014 models without factory prep.
- • **Reliable 3-Way Electrical System:** Protected and powered circuits for safe towing.

## Overview

The CURT 56217 Trailer Hitch Wiring T-Connector is a custom-designed, plug-and-play wiring solution for 2008-2014 Toyota Highlanders without factory tow prep. Featuring a 4-way flat connector, protected 3-wire electrical system, and a dust cover, it ensures a clean, reliable trailer connection with an easy 30-minute installation—perfect for professionals who demand efficiency and durability in their towing setup.

## Description

CURT custom wiring connectors are the easiest way to outfit your vehicle with a CURT trailer wiring connection. They are built with some of the most advanced technology in the industry, and each one is custom-fitted to work with a specific make and model. Some automotive manufacturers install a special socket on the vehicle to be used for vehicle-to-trailer wiring. Although this special socket is not equipped on every vehicle, a CURT custom wiring connector -- also called a T-connector -- utilizes the socket for simple, stress-free installation. Rather than requiring you to cut, splice and solder into your vehicle's wiring system, the custom wiring connector uses a single OEM-compatible plug and instantly provides a standard, universal vehicle-to-trailer wiring connection, typically in the form a 4-way flat. All CURT custom wiring connectors are made vehicle-specific for the easiest possible installation and the best fit. This particular plug-in connector provides a 4-way flat socket and is designed to be a custom wiring option for certain years of the Toyota Highlander and Lexus RX350 (factory tow package may be required; to verify your vehicle compatibility, see application info). It comes with all necessary hardware to establish a solid connection. It also comes with a dust cover to keep the connector socket clean when not in use. To ensure long-lasting reliability, all CURT custom wiring connectors are thoroughly tested for optimal functionality. Stress is the last thing you should feel when towing a trailer -- whether you're hauling your RV to that favorite camping destination, your ATVs up to the hunting grounds or your fishing boat to the new hidden hotspot. At CURT, we think your towing equipment should add to the enjoyment of your experience, not detract from it.

Review: Works as it should. Good quality. - one of the youtube video's on how to use this was wrong on where the parts go. It showed that the parts all went in the back of the SUV. The unit that controls the lights goes up under the dash. There is an multi pin plug up there. Then that unit has to be grounded. I took a nut off a bolt sticking out, clamped a bigger ring connecter and use that as a ground. Also as other people have stated, there is a fuse that goes in the unit itself, and one that has to be put in the fuse box under the hood of the car. It is number 29 in this car and is supposed to be 30 amps. I used a 20 amp as that is the highest I had at the time. I will get 30 amp fuses in case this one blows out. The pigtail goes in the back. There are videos on youtube to show how to get to that. That part is very simple, but you need to know how to get to the plug. Otherwise, it is simple to do it. The hardest part is using zip ties to hold the wires up out of the way by the brake pedal.
Review: Where to put the 10 Amp fuse in the vehicle is the only confusing part of the instructions. - So as most folks said this is very easy to install. I installed it in a 2015 Highlander Hybrid. Plenty of videos on the Internet as to how to reach the wiring in the back of the vehicle so check those out. But there are a few things you should know and reading this should make it easier for you than it was for me. Once you get to the point where you have removed the pieces and hooked up the two connectors, you have two decisions to make. First is whether to drill a hole for the ground wire screw provided or use a screw or bolt already in the vehicle. I chose to drill the hole, sand and that's the best option in my opinion because you don’t need to sand any nuts or screws and you can put that screw where you want it--there are plenty of safe places to drill in the rear near where the adapter plugs in. The second decision is where to put the 4-pin plug (inside or outside the vehicle). I think the best option is to leave it inside the vehicle unless you will be using it a lot. You run it to the compartment where the spare tire tools are. I ran it through the piece of plastic that goes over the battery--see the picture (non-hybrid owners will not have a battery in the back), When you leave it there, it’s easy to get to--you never see it unless you use it and you don't need to worry about running it under the car and mounting it somewhere. Also, if it is outside the vehicle it can corrode, the wires can be cut, it can be damaged, etc. The only downside is it sticks out the back of the vehicle when in use, so if you are anal and don't want to see the wires then run it under and mount it. If you do run it under, the hybrid drain hole is in a different place from regular Highlanders, or at least it was from the one I saw in the video for a non-hybrid. In a hybrid, it is between the battery and the rear at the bottom—you’ll probably need a light to see it. I was confused by a video of a non-hybrid which showed the drain plug against the back of the vehicle (i.e., the hole points out the rear of the vehicle rather than down to the pavement as it is in the hybrid). As to the 10 amp fuse (the one that goes in the vehicle not the inline one in the adapter) the instructions say to consult the manual as to where to put it (there were two in my kit you only need one plus the inline one so you’ll use 2 out of the 3). Well, I could not find where in the manual to put the "trailer" fuse, but I watched the etrailer video and kind of "guessed" where it was from that. First, the fuse box is under the engine hood and it’s the main box (there is more than one) --see the picture as to where that fuse goes. There were only 2 possible places for it and it's the one closest to the front of the vehicle. Next, you must test your installation. If you do not have a trailer to hook up to it (or even if you do) there is a very cheap (under $7) and easy solution. Do yourself a HUGE favor and buy a tester. They are cheap and I don’t care if you are an electrician and have all kinds of ways to test it, this is so easy using a generic tester is not worth the extra trouble to save $7. I bought the SeaSense EZ TROUBLESHOOTER Circuit Tester here on desertcart and highly recommend it. Did I mention you should buy the tester? Finally, once you reconnect the negative post on the battery and clean up, you’ll try to close the hatch door with the button on the door, it is probably going to beep at you and not close. The reason is that you disconnected the battery (assuming you do during installation and you should) with the door open the door "open/close sensor" won’t know whether it's open or closed hence the beeping. Close the door manually and it should work fine after that.

## Features

- Simple plug and play design eliminates the need for cutting or splicing
- Comes with a dust cover to keep your connector clean when not in use and includes converter where needed
- Approximate Install Time: 30 Minutes
- 3W Electrical System with Protected and Powered Circuit
- For 2008-2014 Toyota Highlander without Factory Prep Package

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B00ID7EDRI |
| Best Sellers Rank | #102,013 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #235 in Towing Hitch Wiring |
| Brand | CURT |
| Brand Name | CURT |
| Cable Type | Flat Ribbon |
| Connector Type | 4-Way Flat |
| Customer Reviews | 4.7 out of 5 stars 1,616 Reviews |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00612314562176 |
| Included Components | Custom Wiring |
| Item Dimensions | 4 x 3 x 9 inches |
| Item Type Name | Toyota Highlander |
| Item Weight | 13.76 ounces |
| Item dimensions L x W x H | 4 x 3 x 9 inches |
| Manufacturer | Curt Manufacturing |
| Material | Plastic |
| Material Type | Plastic |
| Model | 56217 |
| Number of Items | 1 |
| Number of Packs | 1 |
| Part Number | 56217 |
| Recommended Uses For Product | trailer wiring |
| UPC | 612314562176 |
| Unit Count | 1 Count |
| Warranty Description | 1 Year Limited Manufacturer Warranty |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** CURT
- **Connector Type:** 4-way Flat
- **Item Weight:** 0.86 Pounds
- **Item dimensions L x W x H:** 4 x 3 x 9 inches
- **Material:** Plastic

## Images

![Curt Manufacturing 56217 Trailer Hitch Wiring T-Connector for Toyota Highlander - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71i4jALwiRL.jpg)
![Curt Manufacturing 56217 Trailer Hitch Wiring T-Connector for Toyota Highlander - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81pfQZFqhrL.jpg)
![Curt Manufacturing 56217 Trailer Hitch Wiring T-Connector for Toyota Highlander - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/A10wck2XOqL.jpg)
![Curt Manufacturing 56217 Trailer Hitch Wiring T-Connector for Toyota Highlander - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81pSMI9mIWL.jpg)
![Curt Manufacturing 56217 Trailer Hitch Wiring T-Connector for Toyota Highlander - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61KMYxigWNL.jpg)

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Works as it should. Good quality.
*by G***E on September 19, 2025*

one of the youtube video's on how to use this was wrong on where the parts go. It showed that the parts all went in the back of the SUV. The unit that controls the lights goes up under the dash. There is an multi pin plug up there. Then that unit has to be grounded. I took a nut off a bolt sticking out, clamped a bigger ring connecter and use that as a ground. Also as other people have stated, there is a fuse that goes in the unit itself, and one that has to be put in the fuse box under the hood of the car. It is number 29 in this car and is supposed to be 30 amps. I used a 20 amp as that is the highest I had at the time. I will get 30 amp fuses in case this one blows out. The pigtail goes in the back. There are videos on youtube to show how to get to that. That part is very simple, but you need to know how to get to the plug. Otherwise, it is simple to do it. The hardest part is using zip ties to hold the wires up out of the way by the brake pedal.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Where to put the 10 Amp fuse in the vehicle is the only confusing part of the instructions.
*by A***N on October 21, 2020*

So as most folks said this is very easy to install. I installed it in a 2015 Highlander Hybrid. Plenty of videos on the Internet as to how to reach the wiring in the back of the vehicle so check those out. But there are a few things you should know and reading this should make it easier for you than it was for me. Once you get to the point where you have removed the pieces and hooked up the two connectors, you have two decisions to make. First is whether to drill a hole for the ground wire screw provided or use a screw or bolt already in the vehicle. I chose to drill the hole, sand and that's the best option in my opinion because you don’t need to sand any nuts or screws and you can put that screw where you want it--there are plenty of safe places to drill in the rear near where the adapter plugs in. The second decision is where to put the 4-pin plug (inside or outside the vehicle). I think the best option is to leave it inside the vehicle unless you will be using it a lot. You run it to the compartment where the spare tire tools are. I ran it through the piece of plastic that goes over the battery--see the picture (non-hybrid owners will not have a battery in the back), When you leave it there, it’s easy to get to--you never see it unless you use it and you don't need to worry about running it under the car and mounting it somewhere. Also, if it is outside the vehicle it can corrode, the wires can be cut, it can be damaged, etc. The only downside is it sticks out the back of the vehicle when in use, so if you are anal and don't want to see the wires then run it under and mount it. If you do run it under, the hybrid drain hole is in a different place from regular Highlanders, or at least it was from the one I saw in the video for a non-hybrid. In a hybrid, it is between the battery and the rear at the bottom—you’ll probably need a light to see it. I was confused by a video of a non-hybrid which showed the drain plug against the back of the vehicle (i.e., the hole points out the rear of the vehicle rather than down to the pavement as it is in the hybrid). As to the 10 amp fuse (the one that goes in the vehicle not the inline one in the adapter) the instructions say to consult the manual as to where to put it (there were two in my kit you only need one plus the inline one so you’ll use 2 out of the 3). Well, I could not find where in the manual to put the "trailer" fuse, but I watched the etrailer video and kind of "guessed" where it was from that. First, the fuse box is under the engine hood and it’s the main box (there is more than one) --see the picture as to where that fuse goes. There were only 2 possible places for it and it's the one closest to the front of the vehicle. Next, you must test your installation. If you do not have a trailer to hook up to it (or even if you do) there is a very cheap (under $7) and easy solution. Do yourself a HUGE favor and buy a tester. They are cheap and I don’t care if you are an electrician and have all kinds of ways to test it, this is so easy using a generic tester is not worth the extra trouble to save $7. I bought the SeaSense EZ TROUBLESHOOTER Circuit Tester here on Amazon and highly recommend it. Did I mention you should buy the tester? Finally, once you reconnect the negative post on the battery and clean up, you’ll try to close the hatch door with the button on the door, it is probably going to beep at you and not close. The reason is that you disconnected the battery (assuming you do during installation and you should) with the door open the door "open/close sensor" won’t know whether it's open or closed hence the beeping. Close the door manually and it should work fine after that.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Easy & inexpensive -- but need 30a low profile mini fuse for Hybrid
*by H***N on May 28, 2025*

If you are a hesitant DIY'er, don't be. It really is as easy to install as their marketers claim. I read the directions, watched the CURT installation video, and the U-Haul installation video (as mentioned in other reviews), and aside from a final step, I was done in 30 minutes. And I've never installed any kind of wired vehicle product before. The Toyota dealer wanted over $200 just for the OEM wiring harness, plus installation fees. I found an OEM option for $155, but that would also be self-installed. Instead, I bought this CURT model, installed it myself, and saved $120+. One MAJOR note: I have a 2018 Highlander Hybrid, and I needed a 30a fuse, not a 10a like the non-hybrid Highlanders. The kit comes only with 10a fuses, and my Highlander did not have a spare 30a. A quick run to the auto parts store solved that issue. I'm not taking off any stars for this product, however, because it specifically says it is for *some* models of the Highlander, not for all of them. One tip: take the cover off of the fuse housing and bring it into the auto parts store. The cover has spare fuses stored in it, and you can match the size of the fuse exactly. Or save yourself the trip and search for "30 Amp Low Profile Mini Car Fuses" and add them to your Amazon order.

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*Product available on Desertcart Croatia*
*Store origin: HR*
*Last updated: 2026-09-13*