0-5A AC Current Detection Sensor Module Switch Output (DC 5V, Green)

Working perfectly, tried to use it to detect the AC blower for boost fans on/off. The hole for current detection is too small

Worked fine for several months, then it kept providing inconsistent voltage on the Normally Closed path until it died. Bought a second one and same thing after a few months. Going with a different brand now.The Normally Open and Common path kept working, but didn't serve my purpose.

The FIRST one I received worked several times while setting the sensitivity then the relay stuck closed. A power off didn't unstick the relay. I understand getting a bad one but just seems more common these days.I ordered another and requested a refund for this one. The second one works like a champ... so far, so good. I bumped my rating to 4 stars. Now I just need to see how long this thing will last.

This is a great little product that I used to turn on my CD and DVD players when this product detected my stereo being turned on.

The five volt power supply connector shown product page shows a little white plastic box on the circuit board, to guide the two little female wires inside a white plastic plug into position.The product I received did not have that little white plastic box - and the two wire power wire did not have that white plastic plug. It was just two pins sticking out of the board, for ground and 5 volt VCC, and two even more tiny little female plugs, one on the end of each wire. They do not make a firm connection. One of the wires attached enough to not simply fall out if the board was held upside down, and the wire did not even hold that well.Looks like they saved a couple more cents on the product, since taking the image shown on the product page.I've jury rigged a tighter connection by fattening the two pins sticking up from the board with a bit of solder, and glued the wires even tinier two little female plugs holding the power wires onto the board. I don't yet know if that will work ... it might. This is on the 5 volt variant.I will be using this to control a 5 volt Noctua fan (from my ample supply of computer parts) to cool the evaporator coils on a Midea WHS-65LB1 Compact Refrigerator when the condenser motor is running, without blowing room temperature air over the same area that should be cooler than room temperature when the condenser motor is not running. I want the fan to come on only when this board senses the 1 amp 120 volt A/C on the hot wire side of the power feeding the Midea's condenser motor. The evaporator coils are hidden in the left side (looking from the front) of that model refrigerator. When the condenser motor is running, one can feel that left side wall of this refrigerator get perhaps 20F degrees hotter than room temperature, which is how I know that the (otherwise well hidden) evaporator coils are hidden in that wall. The fan will be blowing on a large rectangular passive heat sink that I will be gluing directly to the bare aluminum of that wall, with thermally conductive glue, after first scraping off the thermally resistant paint in that location. The cooling cycle should be more efficient, cooling quicker, with this fan blowing there, and the refrigerator should not be having (warmer than inside the refrigerator) air blowing on its left wall when the motor is off.

I supplied 12Vdc to the power terminals and the LED lit up to indicate that it had power.I ran one 18awg wire to a 9w, 120 Vac light, which draws about .1AThe relay does not operate.I tried adjusting the potentiometer to both extremes and still no difference.

The good:(1) easy to adjust set point,(2) seems to have very little change in set point value over temperatureThe "could be better":(1)There is no indication that the relay is energized or not, just that there is power(2) There is no hysteresis in the device - the relay chatters like crazy. There should be some (ideally adjustable) difference between when the relay is set (ON) and when it is reset (OFF)For my present application it isn't critical as the setpoint is sufficiently below the normal operating current, and there's no way for it to operate near the setpoint, but I have other applications where that isn't true.

Works very well, sensitivity seems stable for my 110v monitoring application. Draws <5mA on standby (relay off), <40mA triggered (relay on) with a 12v supply. I'm only switching a 12v security system signal so no problems with isolation risk. Would recommend using an offboard 110/220v relay if that's what you need to switch.