CrealityOfficial Ender 3 V2 Neo 3D Printer CR Touch Auto Leveling Resume Printing Full-Metal Extruder FDM DIY Printers 220x220x250mm

I am a first time 3D printer user.As expected there was a learning curve at first.Assembly was not too hard. I tried to fallow some YouTube videos. Many had their own versions of beginning adjustments, and tricks to delay breakdowns. It ended up, that I took about twice as long assembling it as was advertised.I have owned it for about 1-month now. I have printed 20 objects.When the adjustments were correct, and the program compatible, the printer worked well. (I adjusted the speed a bit slower. The “print head changed directions so fast, that I did not have a solid enough table to stop vibrations.)There was one thing that puzzled me.Using the exact same Gcode. program and printing the same part one right after the other, the parts ended being about .05mm different in size.I like the self leveling feature, and the ease of use of the printer in general.I don’t know what other machines are on the market, but I’m impressed that the machine that I got has worked so well at such a reasonable price.

For any people who were/are not happy with the resin printing experience: This printer really went above and beyond my expectations of not only a low cost printer but an FDM printer in general. I got into the printing world by purchasing a resin printer that Amazon had on sale. I thought I would really enjoy the hobby but the extensive pre and post processing of those prints as well as handling toxic chemical turned me off completely. After a month I figured printing wasn't for me, but I started looking into FDM printers(which this is one, filament based instead of resin) and decided to on a whim buy a low cost but well liked printer. WHAT A DECISION! This printer completely opened my eyes to what I thought 3D printing would be like. It's so much fun! the resin printer's build plate was way smaller and in general more ideal for miniature models, whereas this printer (Ender 5) has a huge build plate and can print just about anything to great results. So if you are turned off my resin printers and you're not sure if printing is for you , I suggest returning your resin printer and giving FDM a shot because it's a whole different experience. Being able to simply pull something(maybe pry is a better word) from your build plate immediately after it's finished and admire it is really still amazing each time I do it.Ender5 : The setup on this model wasn't bad at all, there's a few videos online you could probably search for to give you an idea of what to expect, but out of the box the directions do a pretty good job of guiding you through it. I would definitely recommend checking out a video because you are almost guaranteed to have to adjust something structural on this machine right out of the box. It's nothing major and doesn't require any technical skills but if you aren't looking for it you could very well slam your machine together incorrectly and have problems down the road you can't diagnose because you started with a bad structure. For me the top rail box would lay flush on the unit. If I didn't know to look out for possible adjustments then I very well may have just muscled down the top screws and call it a day, but I knew to check all my connections because all the reviews and videos told me to. I saw that a mount in one corner was tightened down from the factory crooked and caused the top piece to be uneven. So I loosened the necessary mounts, leveled it properly, and then tightened. The top mounted flush as it should and that was that. It was a minor inconvenience but knowing to look for these things is invaluable. Aside from that the build went very quickly and I was printing immediately.Printing: I adjusted the bed to what I thought was level and began printing. I never bothered with the CReality prints and started with some facemask ear savers. I noticed no matter how much I adjusted the bed it never quite felt level. After some prints I accidentally broke my Bowden Tube so I had to order a new, and decided to upgrade. I bought a Capricorn Bowden tube, All-Metal Extruder, and also got the Creality Glass bed. Those three upgrades turned my stringy few first prints and turned them into something I could be proud of. After installing the glass bed I realized my initial build plate was warped, which made proper leveling impossible but the glass bed cleared that up. I have to use a glue stick now (just cheap purple Staples glue stick)and haven't had any adhesion issues since starting that. Printed Bed struts to help with keeping the bed from moving while printing and it made a world of difference. This printer really prints with amazing quality and detail. After the few upgrades I made I am more than happy about this purchase and would recommend this printer to anyone looking to get into the world of FDM printing.Summary: Awesome printer for the price. Recommend upgrading to Glass Bed, Capricorn Bowden Tube, and Metal Extruder.

Watch the third-party free YouTube on-line beginner videos BEFORE building. The included assembly sheet is VERY confusing … and I’m an engineer! The videos make good points about how extremely important it is to make sure the printer’s frame is absolutely square in all three dimensions. Just gradually tightening the bolts in a rotation (like when tightening the bolts/nuts on a vehicle wheel) isn’t good enough.The Z limit switch mounting bracket has a nub on the left front corner (looking from the front of the printer). Some videos say to clip it off (e.g., with diagonal wire cutters or heavy-duty shears), which is the only way that I could get to perform the bed “leveling” process. The process actually positions the bed parallel to the X-Y plane of the printer’s frame (left-to-right, and front-to-back).Some people mistakenly try to use a carpenter’s level to “level” the bed, but if the printer isn’t sitting on a perfectly level table/bench surface, and the bottom of the printer frame isn’t exactly parallel to the supporting table/bench surface (not likely), a carpenter’s level won’t be of any use.Threading the printing filament past the gripping feed rollers and into the white feed tube to the print head is very tricky. Some videos show that it helps to unscrew the brass fitting attached to the feed tube and get the filament to protrude out of the right side of the feed mechanism about an inch (25 mm), then screw the brass fitting back into the mechanism after pushing the fitting over the protruding filament.That makes it possible to get the filament into the feed tube - I couldn’t have accomplished that step without that hint. Getting the end of the filament into the hole beyond the gripping feed rollers was extremely frustrating, as the hole is impossible to see, even with bright lighting, as the hole passes through a black plastic housing behind the very close rollers.The menu items are somewhat different on my printer from any of the manual versions (included on the USB thumb drive, on the Creality.com site, elsewhere on-line, or what’s shown in the videos. I was able to guess that the Motion menu item was what had to be selected from the main menu in order to get to the Auto Home and Disable Steppers menu items, needed to perform the “leveling” steps.Once I had stumbled through the assembly sheet, then discovered the YouTube videos and done things right, printing was pretty straightforward using the built-in micro-SD card reader. I haven’t been able to scale a model down in the included Creality subset of the free, open-source Cura “slicing” software.The provided gcode files print just fine, but not the .stl files after scaling and saving as gcode files. The printer only displays and prints from gcode files that the slicing software generates from .stl (3D Object) files. I’m trying to resolve this issue via on-line searches and forums.

ainda estou aprendendo a usar, não estou conseguindo acertar com as impressões com petg mas com o pla esta saindo perfeitamente.

Nunca usei uma impressora 3D e consegui de primeira fazer peças bem acabadas e com ótima qualidade.

The media could not be loaded.  Tenho ela a 2 semanas... Impressões de qualidade, barata, fácil de configurar, altamente personalizável, o barulho de impressão incomoda um pouco, mas a uma solução.Já imprimi várias coisas e sem nenhum tipo de problema.Veja bastante vídeos de como imprimir, configurar e desenhar as suas próprias artes.Eu uso somente PLA PREMIUM, tentei ABS mas não gostei do material e a impressão fica muito difícil, pois ele precisa de uma impressora fechada, pois a mudança de temperatura faz a impressão ficar quebradiça!Dica:Um upgrade indispensável e a troca da placa principal para a versão v4.2.7 que deixa a ender 3 silenciosa a ponto de você ouvir somente as ventoinhas...

Fácil operação e boa qualidade de impressão.

Essa versão Ender 3 Neo é basicamente a primeira versão, porém com as correções no alimentador e na cabeça de impressão que já tem o sensor de nivelamento. Normalmente quem compra o primeiro modelo troca essas duas coisas mesmo, esse modelo Neo já é com esse upgrade. Vale muito a pena! Para montar é super simples mas precisa ter calma. Tem vários vídeos no site da Creality 3D mostrando passo a passo. (de cada modelo, achei o desse) Segui por eles e montem em uns 35 min. O Auto nivelamento salva a vida! Realmente montem e sai fazendo impressões. Para minha primeira experiência nesse mundo, valeu cada centavo que gastei. Pode comprar sem medo! Só mantenha longe da sua esposa, ela vai querer imprimir utensílios de tudo quer tipo, desde porta escovas a porta saco de lixo.