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โก Power your ride, own the roadโno compromises, just pure performance.
The WEIZE YTX20L-BS is a 12V, 18Ah sealed AGM battery delivering 300 cold cranking amps, designed for motorcycles, ATVs, UTVs, and snowmobiles. Maintenance-free and spill-proof, it offers high discharge rates, vibration resistance, and long cyclic life, ensuring reliable starts and durable performance across all seasons.











| ASIN | B07PLNZQBQ |
| Battery Cell Composition | Sealed Lead Acid |
| Battery Type | Sealed Lead Acid |
| Best Sellers Rank | #70 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #1 in Powersports Batteries |
| Brand | WEIZE |
| Brand Name | WEIZE |
| Compatible with Vehicle Type | ATV, Motorcycle, Personal Watercraft, Snowmobile, UTV |
| Customer Reviews | 4.3 out of 5 stars 57,925 Reviews |
| Item Dimensions D x W x H | 3.43"D x 6.89"W x 6.1"H |
| Item Type Name | lead_acid_battery |
| Item Weight | 12.78 Pounds |
| Manufacturer | WEIZE |
| Manufacturer Part Number | WEIZE |
| Size | YTX20L-BS |
| Terminal | Quad Terminal |
| UPC | 784237370289 |
| Vehicle Service Type | ATV, Motorcycle, Personal Watercraft, Snowmobile, UTV |
| Voltage | 12 Volts |
Z**H
Do you own a Chrylser Pacifica with start/stop? This is for you
Like many, many other Pacifica owners I was getting the dreaded "Start/Stop System Requires Service" notification on my wife's 2018 van. This went on for several months and I didn't really think much of it. I did do some reading about the system however; it looked very confusing--so I left it alone. We don't really like the feature anyway (for those who don't know--and yet still care to know--this is the system that allows the car to turn off at stop lights and such and then restart as soon as the driver's foot lifts off the brake pedal. It's supposed to save $ on gas). Then, my wife called me from Costco to tell me that her car won't start. She called me back about 10 minutes later and said the car had now started and that a bunch of warning lights had popped up on her dash. We now had several warning lights up on the dash: the symbol for the start/stop system (which was nothing new...this one had been on for weeks) and now the check engine light was on. Correlation is not causation but I assumed that the start/stop system had something to do with this. Great. Now I was going to have to take the thing back to the dealership and offer to trade them my first born son in exchange for making this right. First, however, I decided to do some sleuthing. Digging in to my bag of tricks, I busted out my multi-meter and tested the battery. Low and behold, it read 12.5 volts--indicating the battery was JUST hangin' on. I tested it again a bit later and it was lower, reading 12.3, then 12.2. I figured I was probably on to something. Here's the (tricky) thing: these dang machines have TWO batteries! One big primary battery (the crank battery) and one small auxiliary battery (which is used by the start/stop system. You know this already because you are shopping for a small auxiliary battery and reading this review). The things is, you can't really check the voltage of just one when they are both in the vehicle and connected in parallel. Both batteries will read the same voltage. So, I knew that one of the batteries was dead but didn't know which one. I took a chance and ordered this battery, at the time hoping I wouldn't have to also fork out $200 on a new primary (crank) battery. Fun story: I had to buy a new crank battery, too. So, the new battery arrived on Sunday (yesterday) and I started disassembling the old batteries out of the van. Remember when removing a battery used to just be a strap over the battery and disconnected the negative and then positive terminals? Ha! No more! It took me darn near 45 minutes to get the two batteries out (for the record you need a 13mm and 10mm socket). The small battery has to come out first; the crank battery does not have room to come out unless you pull the auxiliary first. I got the auxiliary out and inspected it to the new replacement: they looked very similar in size and the labels indicated very similar properties in terms of capacity and such. The one big difference--and this was noted by another reviewer to my benefit--the old battery had posts mounted to each of the positive and negative terminals and the new battery had bolts that were supposed to connect through the terminal and then into a square receiving bolt. The problem was, the bolts that came with the new battery are rather short and--at first glance--don't appear like they will work. I'm getting ahead of myself in this story but when I went to put the new battery in I was able to make these bolts/nuts fit by cutting a rubber band in half, folding the rubber band over itself to about 3/8" height, and then squeeze the square receiving nut into the battery terminal with the battery under it. This pushed the receiving nut up and tight against the underside of the terminal and made it so that when I pushed the bolt down through the terminal the threads would catch. Saved me from buying longer bolts (a savings of probably 50 cents--still, it worked!) Now that I had the auxiliary battery out and it looked like it would work, I decided to pull the main battery and take it to an auto parts retailer to have them check it. The first one I drove to closed literally as I pulled in (because of course it did). The second, an Autozone, checked the battery for me: they measured it at 75% cranking power while at full charge and labelled it "dead." Gone are the days of a battery slowing dying; cars now are entirely electronically controlled. My suspicion is that if the car reads a certain level of battery it just stops working. There is no slow turning of the starter like on older vehicles. The Pacifica seems to be especially hard on batteries and so won't take anything but the battery's very best. Once performance falls below a certain point it is "dead" for all intensive purposes. $203 later, I had a new battery with a 36 month warranty. I took the new battery home, installed the big/crank battery first, then the auxiliary battery (then removed them both again because I had put the crank battery in backward). I reversed the multitude of cable connections to the battery exactly as they were before and...it worked! After a few miles of the car telling me the start/stop system was unavailable because the battery was charging, it became available and I had the joy of being able to turn up my music with the windows down so that everyone around me could listen to what I was listening to without the annoyance of the engine idling. I bet I looked PRETTY cool in my mini-van. With functioning start/stop. Long story short, this battery worked for what I bought it for. I have no idea how long it will last but--considering all other options for this battery are well over $100--even if I have to replace it twice, or even three times, as often, I still won't be losing much by giving it a try. I'll update this review if it fails ridiculously fast.
Z**L
Working fine so far/ 2 year update
2 year update: Well, the battery finally died. I went to restart my bike at a gas station and the instrument cluster was completely dead. Not dim-- DEAD. I thought my ignition switch had failed or I'd popped the main fuse. I keep a tool kit with me when I ride my bike, and 2 of the tools are a multimeter and a small, portable jump pack. The battery showed just under 10V. I'm guessing one of the cells shorted or died altogether. If so, there was no warning. It cranked and started fine 5 minutes earlier, then refused to start after I'd ridden to the corner gas station and filled the tank. Just like that, dead as a doornail. I jumped the bike and got it home. Now I'm waiting for another battery to come in. I would've liked to have gotten more than 2 years out of this battery, especially since I keep it on a tender/maintainer when it's parked at home (which is 99% of the time). Having said that, between the high vibration and the fact that my motorcycle's regulator-rectifier outputs something like 15.5V all the time (by design, according to the service manual), this battery has led a somewhat hard life. I also managed to run it completely dead once by leaving the key on, which was my fault and which is the kiss of death for lead acid batteries. In all, I got my money's worth out of this battery. This time around, however, I'm going with a more expensive Energizer battery. Why? Because the model I bought before is not currently available from Weize, and none of the other options look particularly appealing. The Energizer is about twice the price. Let's see if it ends up being twice as good. Original review below: The battery on my motorcycle died after a few too many deep discharges and extended cranking. It wouldn't hold a charge no matter what I did, and even desulfating it didn't help. It had lived its life and was now in the great beyond. If you've ever tried to buy a motorcycle battery, you know that the size designations are not always as well laid out as they are for cars. A bunch of fitment guides gave me conflicting info, and even Amazon's parts guide didn't show me all of the available batteries. Such is life when you own an old bike. I cross-referenced the number on my old battery (Yuasa YB14L-B2) to this battery. The price for this AGM battery was lower than I could find for a replacement Yuasa SLA (sealed lead acid, IE wet) battery, and WAY lower than just about anything from a local parts store. I double-checked the dimensions, crossed my fingers, and ordered it. As soon as the battery arrived, I put a battery tender/maintainer on it. I didn't know when I'd be able to install it and I didn't want a dead battery when I finally got around to it. The battery registered as fully charged on my tender. A voltage check of the terminals showed 12.6V, which also correlates to 100% charge. So far so good. I installed the battery about a week later. Installation was easy and all the included hardware (metric machine screws and square nuts) worked fine. I greased the terminals to keep corrosion at bay, hit the key, and the bike cranked and eventually started. The starter spun with no problems at all. I've put a little less than 200 miles on the bike in the last week or so and the battery has worked fine. Both cold and hot starts have been effortless. I keep the battery on a tender for peace of mind but I don't think I need to unless I'm storing the bike for the winter. We'll see how long it lasts-- bike batteries lead short, brutal lives because of the vibration, but AGMs are supposed to combat this. Time will tell. As of right now, this battery has been a good choice.
M**K
Good battery...but new??
This battery arrived with a good charge in good factory packaging. It has performed well and has held its charge so far. The only reason I deduct one star is because the connection posts did not look like a new battery. Scratched, dinged up and discolored as if the battery was used before, or possiblyreconditioned. Not sure why that is, but when I buy something described as new, I expect it to look that way, whether it's functioning is good or not.
R**M
First one bad, seller sent second which has worked well. It too did not last 1 year 10 months.
Another update. This battery too is garbage. Read the other 1 star reviews. It lasted less than 1 year 10 months. Will not hold a strong enough charge. If it would have lasted even 4 years it would have been worth it for the price. You will have to replace it every other year. I am trying a lithium Ion on my dirtbike to see how it holds up. If it does, it is a little more expensive but seems to have more cranking amps. This battery started out great, then after charging it it over 2 winters It does not reliably crank the motor over. Never again. Update.. After getting a second battery. This one survived through some cold weather and still is working great. I have upgraded my rating for this new battery. I must have got a bad one, that is what a warranty is for and this sell was great about getting me a new battery quickly. I would recommend this battery and seller. Sometimes you get a bad one and it would seem a lot of people have had good ones. Ordered June 26 2023, In 6 mo it will not hold a charge. Read the other reviews, this is a bad battery. Others who have better luck may live in warmer climates. In CO, it gets cold (always stored in garage, never went below 42 degrees F) It has no cranking amps. Not be able to contact the sell for the "1 year warranty" Don't waste your time. If the manufacturer contacts me and fixes the problem with a new battery that actually holds up, I will revise my review.
R**K
Very difficult to install
Replacing batteries in a motorcycle is something I have to do every couple years. The bike does not get ridden frequently and I don't keep a battery tender on it as I don't have power where it is stored. This is my first time buying this brand. I had been using another brand that fit in the bike very well and was easy to install. My only concern was they did not seem to last very long so I wanted to try another brand. I saw good ratings on this battery and looking at the specs it seemed to be the correct fit for the bike. The actual publish measurements was actually 1/10 of an inch smaller than what I had been using. I received the battery and on inspection it looked very good. Well packed. I unpacked and put on a battery tender to bring it up to full charge. It stayed there for a week or two due to travel and other activities. A nice Saturday morning came and I wanted to get the bike out for a ride. I grabbed the battery and went to install in the bike, normally about a 5 minute activity. The first thing I encountered was it was actually larger than my last battery. I have a Harley and the battery box required the battery to be have very specific dimensions. This one is a bit too large and it was a tight fit to get it into the battery box. That turned out to be the least of the challenges on the install. Attaching the cables to the battery terminals involves inserting the supplied nuts into the terminal slots. The gap on the battery terminals where the nuts go in is so large that the nut would fall out or if I managed to keep it from falling out, the nut would get push to the back side of the slot and the terminal screw could not reach it. After about 20 mins trying to get them to stay in I knew I had to come up with another solution. It was obvious that I needed something that I could use as a shim to hold the nut toward the front of the terminal slot and prevent it from falling out when putting in the screw. After considering several materials I spotted a styrofoam cup. I grabbed some scissors and cut a strip out then folded it to fit tightly into the terminal slot. With that in place I inserted the nut which now is held tightly in place and at the front of the terminal slot. The styrofoam worked well because if easily formed around the nut to hold it in place. I should point out that I used the nuts from the previous battery because they were actually rectangular in shape as they should be and the supplied were hex nuts. Very poorly thought out. The battery is new and starts the bike well. I can't speak to the longevity of the battery because I have not had it long enough. I won't be purchasing this battery again regardless. The fitment problem and installation issues it's not worth it.
H**N
Fit Perfectly
Perfect replacement size for the battery in my classic 1965 BMW R50 motorcycle. Great price. My only quibble is that the nut into which the terminal screws fit is not attached. Therefore, you somehow have to line up the screw with the nut somewhat blindly. I actually had to remove the seat to get at the terminals. Your mileage may vary. Overall, very satisfied.
D**.
I've purchased 2 - 1 was great - 1 was bad.
Lasted maybe 40 miles of single track on my wr450f before something went bad internally in this battery. Left me having to compression start my bike. Battery showed 12v+ on a multimeter, but dropped to 1-2v when pushing the start button on my bike. Voltage would quickly climb back to 12v+ after sitting for a few seconds, then back to 1-2v when trying the starter again. Installed a new battery and the bike fired right up. Purchased this same battery previously for my yfz450 and it was great, lasted a long time... so probably roll of the dice with these. My buddy Purchased 2 for his bikes at the same time I ordered mine and both of his were DOA and his smart charger wouldn't charge them.
A**N
Returning it cost $50
Came in a nice package and worked well until a cold snap came and even though it was in the garage, the battery died. Tried trickle charging it and it wouldn't take a charge even inside the house. My charger does analysis too and said it was dead. Disappointed for something that is advertised as a snowmobile battery even though it was for my motorcycle. Worked great until it didn't work at all. I will say the being able to change the position of the screws on the terminals was nice. Warning that when I tried to return it, I had to pay for the shipping. It was going to be $30 except it has to go through the post office which charged me $50. So $50 to return a battery that cost less than $100. Not happy with that at all. Keep that in mind that the company will screw you over shipping if you return it or need warranty work.
F**N
Pour mon scooteur
Bonne achat
A**R
Not refundable
Size was too small for our atv....cannot send back either.
E**N
2018 Chrysler Pacifica, start stop perfect replacement
My wife Pacifica auto start stop was not working, removed old battery installed this battery and working like a charm !! 100% recommend this battery if you Pacifica is having same issue. Thanks to the guy with previous review who had same issue with Pacifica.
C**N
Sxs
Tres bken
S**B
exceeds the original battery
better than original battery for drz400sm
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