P3SD4-8 Punch P3S 8" 4-Ohm DVC Shallow Subwoofer

Bought as replacement for totally disintegrated, junk OE on 2001 Suburban ... probably died years ago ... never paid attention. But once I did a second replacement of the front door speakers, I figured I might as well "go the distance" and replace the long-blown subwoofer too. It's pretty easy to get at the OE subwoofer in this particular car. The problem was finding a 2 ohm subwoofer that'll fit in the OE enclosure, which is actually a good box (made of that really dense polymer that a lot of pro audio speakers are made of, bolted really tight into the left rear cargo area) ... probably better than anything I could make on my own. This subwoofer is "4 ohm," but you can make it 2 ohm by wiring the two terminal blocks together. (See the suggested wiring schematics that come packaged with the sub.) I tried a cheaper Planet Audio model first, but it was too long/deep for the OE box. I'm actually glad it didn't work, because that forced me to look at some higher quality "shallow mount" models, and it was down to the Pioneer, or this one. The mounting ring/plate on the Pioneer didn't look like it would fit in the box without a LOT of extra work (I saw a YouTube video of a guy that spent hours carving material out of the mounting cavity on his OE box to make it fit ... bad idea), so I opted for this one. Another happy accident. The mounting plate/flange on the Rockford Fosgate didn't fit the box either, but I was able to make it fit by cutting away some of the extraneous loops/material in the outer ring, leaving only the typical four "ears." The material looks really thick in the pictures, but most of it is plastic, and I was relieved to realize that I was able to make all the cuts I needed to with a Dremel tool/cutter in about 20-30 minutes. The outer diameter of the mounting plate/flange is a little smaller than that of the OE subwoofer, so the holes for the RF "ears" didn't quite reach the holes for the OE, but they were close enough to drill new holes in the meaty part of the OE box material that supported the OE screws. Far more important, enough of the neoprene gasket on the back side of the mounting plate contacted the mating surface on the OE box to make a good seal. Once I got the mounting issues solved, the rest was easy. The terminals are the push type ... no clips or soldering required. I just needed to mate some new wire with the OE clips, connect them to the speaker and OE harness, and voila ... I was thumpin. I'm sure this sub is woefully underpowered by the factory head unit/secondary amp in this vehicle, but compared to what I had before (basically nothing), it still sounds amazing. As you can probably tell from the fact that I lived with a totally blown/disintegrated OE subwoofer for YEARS without bothering to replace it, I don't need massive, thumping bass that rattles my whole car to be satisfied from my position in the driver's seat. I just want better speakers for the OE system than the paper cone junk that Chevy put in the car 16 years ago. This vehicle has a total of six different speakers in addition to the subwoofer (front doors, rear doors, rear pillars), and finally having a quality sub really fills out the whole system in a way I've never heard in all the 12 or so years I've owned the car. So far I'm VERY pleased. This is a solid, pro audio sub. Very well constructed ... nice rigid cone, thick seal/surround, heavy magnet/housing, relatively easy to modify/customize to fit any application requiring shallow depth, works at 2 or 4 ohms ... love it.

Fantastic. Perfect fit replacement for Bose Sub in the Audi Q7 Bose sound package. Sounds great especially for a shallow mount sub. You’re not going to get those ear pounding super lows as if you installed a couple 1000 watt JBL 10’s, but it’s a wonderful stock upgrade. Very easy to install; drops right into the Bose enclosure.

I own a 2021 Ford bronco with the B&O sound system. As many know, the overall sound is underwhelming and needs improvement. I started replacing all of the 4" dash and rear speakers with Alpine S40's. This made an improvement, but overall I was still not satisfied. After reading the forums, I decided not to replace the 6.5 kick panel speakers and researched replacing my subwoofer. My biggest issue at this point was the stock subwoofer would bottom out and start crackling whenever there was deep bass. I could not play hip-hop music (rock and heavy metal were OK.) My research led me to this Rockford Fosgate sub. I was initially excited until I tried to mount it in the stock subwoofer box, but it simply would not fit, and the screw holes did not line up. After over an hour of trimming the outer metal and plastic of the new subwoofer, it finally went in, and I used the stock beauty ring to secure it in place. I cranked up some Eazy-E, and wow, it sounded GREAT. No more crackling, and the bass was punchy. The overall system still sounds hollow, but the sub and other speaker upgrades make it tolerable. I am happy with this subwoofer.

Replaced a blown OEM subwoofer in the under seat enclosure in my Nissan Xterra with this and a CT Sounds T-300.1 amp. Put some sound deadening material in bottom of factory enclosure and filled with poly fill. This sub sounds great if you don’t expect it to behave like a larger sub. It is punchy and fills in the low end very well. It does reasonably well with lower “bass” but falls off pretty quickly. If you want to retain the stock system and not have to deal with a box taking up space this is a great solution. Just make sure you power it with an additional amp. I don’t think most OEM amps will give it enough to make it sound good. This is probably the reason for most of the bad reviews. This is a high power rated sub. 150watts RMS/ 300 Peak. 50-75 watts from a factory amp is not going to do this justice.

I have designed and build a audio system in my car for the last 3 yrs, continually upgrading every year for a more well round RF SQL system. I run All Power series equipment in my car but sub(SQ HDS310's) and these P3SD4-8's. With these I plan to fiber glass kick panels to house these as a midbass driver, playing from 60-200 Hz, I will let the 2 sets of T2 comps in my doors to play 100+ Hz and up with T3 tweeters in the door panel above the midrange. I have a T400-4 and these will be playing on the rear ch's (3&4) at 2 ohm and will see about 145 watts each to keep up with the comps playing 125 watts each of a T400-2. Rear doors are T1 Comps off another T400-4. All Active off a 80-PRS. So 950 watts for a front stage, 400 watts for rear fill to help keep up with the 2k sub stage. HO Alt and 4 battery's to keep the system juiced up. I have about 6K into the system and 100's of hrs into the build. Once install is done with the P3SD4-8's I will update review. I am more than confident that this will work well, RF techs agree of the capabilities of the driver to play these freq. Love this hobby and should sound loud & clear when done.

My 2005 4 Runner needed a new sub. In this vehicle, you have to go with a shallow mount sub. This one fit perfectly. I had to drill new holes, but the wiring and install was a snap. It has a great rich deep sound. My son loves it. Dad did good!

Could be of better sound quality for the price. But its the only plug and play for the b&o subwoofer replacement.

Basse Assez surprenante pour un petits 8" je l'ai installé dans le caisson d'origine de mon Kona Ev 2023 preferred sans faire trop de modification repris 2 des emplacement d'origine des vis les autre vis fournie avec le sub on fait le travail couplé a un Pioneer GM-ME300X1C il fais un excellent travail je suis meme très surpris du résultat final Systeme de son Non harmand kardon

Works Awsome.

Worth it