🚗 Hitch Up and Go: Elevate Your Towing Game!
The Draw-Tite 75998 Class 3 Trailer Hitch is a robust towing solution designed specifically for the 2014-2023 Jeep Cherokee. With a 2-inch square receiver and a maximum towing capacity of 5,000 lbs, this hitch is built from solid, all-welded steel and features a weather-resistant finish. It meets rigorous safety standards and comes with a Nationwide Limited Lifetime Warranty, ensuring reliability and performance for all your towing adventures.
Compatible with Vehicle Type | Van, Sport-Utility-Vehicles, Truck, Trailer |
Finish Types | Powder Coated |
Material Type | Alloy Steel |
Item Weight | 39 Pounds |
S**L
Great fit on a 2012 Sienna
Item arrived without any packaging but was in great condition. Easy to install and looks great installed. Didn’t require any cutting on the plastic shield under the Sienna.
P**R
Fits like a glove!
Minutes to install, well made heavy duty hitch frame. Amazing how well things go when you get the RIGHT part!
U**5
Nice design, Installation is never easy as instructions would suggest
Installation went well. I removed the muffler (just one difficult bolt). That made it easy to get it off the flexible mounts -- much more room to slide the muffler off the mounts. I used a motorcycle jack and car jack to raise the assembly to get the bolts attached. The unit is heavy otherwise and space is cramped. Also I had to pay attention to the rear muffler mount-- it was initially trapped by the hitch assembly. Other than that, assembly is straightforward. The fishwire worked well. I plan to go back and apply blue locktite. I was just happy to get it installed first time around.I like the design and am happy with the quality. Using it as a receiver for a bike rack.
F**R
Beware the tongue weight!
APPLICATIONI installed this on a 2007 Jeep Wrangler Sahara with factory tow package and aftermarket Mopar Offroad Steel Bumper (it’s old, and different from the one they now sell under that moniker). I am the original owner of this vehicle, which has about 120,000 miles on it.FIRST IMPRESSIONSThis is a MUCH beefier hitch than the one that came OEM on the vehicle from the factory. I mean, it’s not even close. It looks and feels HUGE in comparison and is obviously high quality. It DOES stick out from the bumper by several inches (the OEM one was flush with the bumper), but not enough to make me sorry I got it. It does NOT include a bracket for holding the 4-pin wiring connector like the OEM hitch does. The factory hitch has a tongue weight rating of 350 lbs, while this one has a rating of 675 lbs. It is the specific reason why I upgraded. I plannws to use it with a Yamaha Exo SwingBase and Top Shelf, which is 100 lbs without any cargo added, so I wanted to beef up my tongue weight rating accordingly.RELATED ITEMSI am using this receiver hitch with the following related items:TOPTOW Hitch Extender: https://a.co/d/ayeWP5UMaxxHaul 50174 Locking Pin Set: https://a.co/d/hILSUMSCurt Harness Mounting Bracket for 4-way flat: https://a.co/d/g5vPpyUCurt Rubber Trailer Hitch Cover: https://a.co/d/e1jV0IGYakima EXO Top Shelf (37 lbs): https://a.co/d/1bVlGhmYakima EXO SwingBase (64 lbs): https://a.co/d/8VxoDC7Valley Industries Hitch cargo basket similar to: https://a.co/d/j7Iz3cuINSTRUCTIONSThe instructions that came with the kit are just wrong. It says the included bolts are 18mm and they’re 19mm. The ones I took off the vehicle were ALSO 19mm. Additionally, it gives instructions for the Mopar Offroad Bumper that do not apply to my Mopar Offroad Bumper because, apparently, the design changed significantly over time.Besides that, the instructions are pretty simple. If you don’t have a hitch installed already, put this one on, put the bolts, washers and nuts on and torque it down. No rocket science here. The instructions DO say to drop the muffler, and that would certainly make it easier to put the bolts in, but with some effort and patience, you can get the bolts on without removing the muffler, which would save you a lot of effort. Getting the washers and nuts on can be difficult – it was very difficult with the bumper I have. See “My Personal Experience” section for details.If you already have a hitch installed, you obviously have to remove that first. The instructions didn’t address this issue. It’s not rocket science either, but it may be difficult due to rust issues.MY PERSONAL INSTALL EXPERIENCEThis was a nightmare install for me, as I have a 2007 Jeep that has been in Pennsylvania for the past 10 years. That means it has lots and lots of rust. I tried to get the nuts on the existing hitch off. I got one of them kinda-sorta loose and gave up. I decided it would be better to just pay someone to do this job. So, I made arrangements – Total Offroad was going to do it for $150. Unfortunately, they gave up too. They said they put two hours into it and couldn’t get the bolts off. SO, they gave me back my Jeep and told me they would not charge me.After thinking about it for a bit, I decided to try a reciprocating saw with 12” heavy duty carbide blades from Diablo. It worked! I got the right-most (passenger side) nut cut off, and got half-way through the next bolt before the blade broke. The next blade finished the job. Amazingly, I got the two driver’s side bolts off intact. Maybe all the vibration from the saw loosened them up? Anyway, I worked the bolts out, without having to remove the muffler. Patience is the key. After that, a couple of hits with a heavy hammer knocked the hitch to the ground. In the course of all of that, I damaged the wiring for my bumper’s reverse lights, so that is extra work that most of you won’t have to do.Hoisting the new hitch into place is easy. Getting the new bolts in, not so much (assuming you didn’t remove the muffler). You have to wiggle-jiggle the bolt and the muffler around quiet a bit, but with lots of frustration and patience, it is possible. I got the left-most bolt in first, then the next one on the left side, then the inner right one, and finally the right-most one.Once you get that far, getting the nut-side washers and nuts on can be difficult – it was very difficult with the bumper I have and I had to use special Irwin extra long double-hinged pliers (like these: https://a.co/d/cypCiGj) to hold the nuts in place while I threaded the bolts into them because I simply couldn’t get my hands/fingers in there. You have to pull the bolt back toward the front of the jeep, so that it only sticks out the hole toward the rear about a half-inch. This gives you as much room as possible to position the washer and the nut. I used the pliers to position and hold the nut and threaded the bolt in with my other hand. It’s tricky – and if you’re like me you’ll need multiple “breaks” to get it all done, but you can get there eventually.Once you have all four bolts loosely threaded into the nuts, finger tight, it’s time for final torque. It’s helpful to have a friend, wife or mistress push up on the hitch so that gives you as much ground clearance as possible. There’s a bit of vertical slop there, so you can either take it in the sloppy downward most position, or have someone push it up until you get the right-most and left-most nuts fully torqued so it will hold itself in position, while you do the other two nuts. Not sure how much difference it actually makes, but that’s what I did.PERFORMANCE REVIEWAfter all that work, I was ready to try it out on my road trip! It was about 285 miles total. I was disappointed. In my initial configuration, I used the TOPTOW Hitch Extender 2” drop in conjunction with Yakima Exo Swing Base and the cargo basket, loaded up how I wanted it. I know it LOOKS like a lot in the picture, but there is no way I exceeded the weight limit. I had MAYBE 300 lbs on it. After 90 miles or so, it was clear that the rack was bending down. I proceeded carefully after that and by the time I got to camp, it was REALLY bending down. So much so that I didn’t feel like I was going to be able to drive back home safely.The next day, what I determined is that there is a lot of “flex” in the configuration. One source of flex is within the Draw-Tite receiver hitch itself. The plate that faces the back side of the frame flexes a bit. The entire rear section of the frame also flexed a bit. The Yakima device also flexes. All of it together was just unacceptable. I decided to remove the TOPTOW Hitch Extender 2” from the configuration. I also re-packed my Jeep for the trip home, to bit as little weight on the cargo rack as possible. In the end, it still flexed, and more than I would like. But it isn’t clear that it is unsafe. I’m really not sure what to make of it. I plan to weigh my cargo boxes and everything I had on the hitch before I decide what to do about it. I’m WONDERING if making an additional steel support plate for rear-facing side of the frame at the hitch would help much.OVERALLI’m not sure this was a real upgrade over the OEM receiver hitch. It seems like it would be, but in terms of practical use, I’m not convinced it is doing much for me. I cannot, however, compare with the OEM hitch at this point, since I removed it. YMMV.
C**K
fit well
This hitch went on easily and fit well.
R**B
Heavy duty
The product is very heavy duty and fit my Honda CRV hybrid perfectly. U-tube installation videos made it fairly easy.
M**N
Professional, precise fit
Installed this on my 2016 Outlander. Absolutely love the fit! Had a few moments where I wanted to give up but it was the truck's fault, not the hitch. Here are a few things to prepare yourself for (hopefully the attached photos will be alongside this review):1. Have the following tools and equipment ready: channel lock pliers (to remove and reinstall exhaust hangers), jack stand or similar (to hold up the exhaust while you remove/reattach it), metric socket set and wrench, metric offset box wrenches, rubber mallet or your glutes (to adjust the hitch driver-to-passenger), rust remover/lubricant such as B'laster, healthy pectoral muscles (to hold the hitch up while bolting).2. You'll need to lower the muffler/exhaust out of the way. The first, second and third rubber hangers (counting from the back of the truck) are all you need to remove. No need to actually unbolt the muffler. This is the worst part of the entire install, I promise.3. You'll also benefit from removing the spare wheel temporarily while you work.4. There is a bolt protruding back-to-front, on the driver's side, that will APPEAR to prevent you from pushing the hitch in place to completely put in the carriage bolts. Hopefully my photo is attached; the photo with the yellow circle in the top right highlights this bolt. At this point, either hit the side of the hitch with your rubber mallet to move the hitch more to the passenger side of the truck, or lay on your back perpendicular to the truck and fumikomi geri a.k.a. stomp-kick it into place the same direction (there is a vertical plate you can kick while under the truck). Magically, you'll have just enough clearance to slide _next_ to this bolt now. Talk about precise tolarances!5. In the truck frame, the holes for the vertical, shorter bolts (photo with red circle highlighting it) were incredibly rusted and the thread was in a horrible state. Hosing it with B'laster might work for you (didn't for me); in the end I swapped the supplied M10 bolts with 3/8" bolts and re-tapped the holes on both sides of the truck to fit the new 3/8" ones. SO much easier with a clean thread and I wish I just did this instead of try to force the original M10s into there in the first place!6. Please ignore the temptation to just skip those last two bolts. You want all six! The hitch replaces your OEM tow hook, so if you need a tow truck to ever winch you out of a ditch or snowbank, they might just decide to use your hitch now. Any lifting of the hitch upward will put stress on the frame and without the third bolts on each side, you might warp your frame.7. Space is tight after bolting on the hitch but I did not need to jack up the truck at all (I'm 5' 7" average build/weight).
C**T
Fits our 2024 Kia Sportage EX perfectly.
Fits our 2024 Kia Sportage EX perfectly. The quality of the hitch was awesome and perfectly accurate on the hole spacing and alignment for the bolts. I did not need to take off the plastic housing on the passenger side as I was able to get my torque wrench and appropriate 17mm (long socket for bottom bolt, short for one side bolt) in place to torque to the recommended 42 ft. lb. For the other bolt on the side on the passenger side where I could not get my torque wrench and socket on it to tighten I just used a box end wrench and then a longer adjustable "Crescent" style wrench to tighten it as tight as I could with the approximate 12 inch long wrench and that pretty much was 40 to 50 ft. lbs. based on the leverage I felt with the torque wrench on the other 5 bolts. Note that the driver side was easy to get to with the torque wrench.
C**N
Awesome quality, easy to install
This hitch was perfect fit for the corolla cross. Installation took me 90min.Draw-tite has always made great products.I've had several hitches from them.
G**N
Fit very well and not to visible
Trailer hitch
R**N
Perfect fit ... simple install
This is the second time I've installed a hitch on a new vehicle, and it was by far the simplest. This hitch receiver fit our 2024 Tucson plug in hybrid perfectly. It was unboxed and installed in less than half an your. My son and I installed it (two person install recommended) and it was a matter of jacking up the car, removing one plastic shield at the back of the car, lifting the hitch receiver into place and installing six bolts into the pre-threaded holes. Simple as anything, and not even the slightest bit of tweaking required for perfect alignment. Definitely highly recommended.
M**E
Recommandé
Installation très facile en 30 minutes, sur un Sportage 2023
Trustpilot
1 day ago
1 month ago