OVERTURE High Speed PETG Filament 1.75mm, 1kg White

Grass Green is pretty close to Ryobi's green. I printed PETG and found 250C, the max, was best. I also noticed it printed more shiny at higher temps. Duller at lower. 70C bed was fine and 80C no different on Sovol SV07 PEI bed. Fast led to problems. Sweet spot was around 38mm/sec for walls. If I dialed it up to 50mm/sec then stringing started. On a roll sitting for about 3-4 weeks it did pick up moisture which can cause your nozzle to accumulate some excess. Keep an eye out for it. If you come back to a final print with little extra blobs, it's probably knocked off the nozzle as it moved around. I used Cura default for wall thickness but I did drop my layers to 1.6mm for better arches. I didn't use bed adhesion (brim, raft, etc), bridges or supports but I also kept all my angles gradual. Look at the pic and you'll see they are basically circles. I used 20% infill as well as 30%. No real difference. When setting the power drills on the bracket arms, they only deflect maybe 1-2mm. Barely noticeable. Yes, by hand you can make it deflect 5-6mm but this is just to organize my tools, not create a climbing wall that will support lots of weight. I printed all of what you see with 1 spool. I have a 2nd loaded to do a ton of more tool wall brackets, but wanted to get this review up. If your print has started, and you have moisture issues, try bumping the temp up and keep an eye on it. You may get through it bumping 5 degrees at a time to watch for change. In my case, it was in the infill area, and so it's "entombed" inside. When I ramped up to 60mm/sec and got to higher layers, like around 300 of 500 (again, 1.6mm height layers) it did start to have issues rising a bit, and catching upon hot end return. I reduced the speed back to 32, and dropped the fan from 20% to 10% and the clipping stopped for a perfect finish. I do also use glue pen for adhesion to the bed, but even on a clean bed (no glue pen) I still had great adhesion. Finish is great. No stringing if I keep speeds down. Strong as you'd expect from PETG. I am super happy. I did read reviews that were negative but didn't have problems. The storage bag is resealable which is really nice. Spool did not detach on either spools. My filament was unopened on both rolls, ordered about 4 weeks apart. I will definitely order this product again as I get more of my power tools wall mounted, and when I get a chance I will upload the STL files to Thingiverse. I created these prints on TinkerCad. website, exported STL into Cura and then sliced GCode sent to Sovol SV07Plus.

I've used this OVERTURE High-Speed PETG on my Bambu A1, primarily from the external spool holder. I've also used several other brands of PETG, particularly SUNLU, so I have a good point of comparison. Compatibility with my Bambu A1 has been good. The spool fits and feeds normally from the external spool holder, and I haven't experienced any clogs, tangles, or other feeding problems. The filament moves smoothly through the PTFE tubing and extruder during prints. Like the other PETG I've used, this definitely prints better for me after drying. I've used essentially the same settings that work well with my SUNLU PETG and have been able to get very smooth, clean prints. Flow and extrusion are consistent once the filament is dry and the settings are dialed in, without noticeable under-extrusion or inconsistent layers. I did find that increasing print speed affected this filament more than I expected from something labeled "High Speed." As I pushed the speed higher, bed adhesion wasn't quite as reliable and the overall print didn't seem as smooth as what I've gotten from SUNLU PETG at similar settings. At more reasonable speeds, though, the printability and surface finish have been very good. Stringing has been about the same as I experience with SUNLU. The white itself is a nice opaque, slightly shiny white and can produce a very smooth finished surface with the right settings. I also haven't noticed any particularly strong or unpleasant odor while printing it. Overall, OVERTURE has been a reliable brand for this spool and I would purchase their filament again. This PETG feeds well, flows consistently, and produces very nice finished prints once dried and properly dialed in. I still personally prefer SUNLU PETG because I've had slightly better results with print smoothness and adhesion when increasing speed, but I've been very happy with the OVERTURE and would buy it again.

I picked up this spool of Overture High Speed PETG in Black to mass-produce functional structural brackets and custom machine brackets on my enclosed high-velocity printer. Standard PETG formulas are historically notorious for being slow-printing materials; if you try to push them past 60–80mm/s, they suffer from severe cold under-extrusion, a dull matte finish, and terrible layer separation. This rapid formulation completely eliminates those old constraints, keeping pace with aggressive modern kinematics effortlessly. Why this rapid PETG is an exceptional blend: Legitimate High-Velocity Flow: The melt flow index on this plastic is outstanding. Pushing it on my high-speed machine, it melted rapidly and consistently inside the hotend. I was able to comfortably crank my volumetric flow rates up to 18–20 mm³/s in the slicer, maintaining linear print speeds well past 200mm/s without encountering any extruder clicking, skipping, or gaps in the layer walls. Impeccable Precision Winding: The "neatly wound" claim is 100% accurate. The filament is layered perfectly flat and uniform from the inner core all the way to the outer rim. This meticulous mechanical winding completely removes the risk of overlapping cross-over knots, giving you total peace of mind during long, unattended overnight runs. Low Stringing & Oozing: PETG is famous for being incredibly sticky and leaving spiderweb strings all over a print. This Overture formula pulls away from the nozzle much cleaner than legacy budget alternatives, leaving crisp outer walls and requiring minimal clean-up with a heat gun. Makerspace Setup & Slicer Tuning Tips: A Deep Bake is Mandatory: Even though it arrives beautifully vacuum-sealed, all PETG is highly hygroscopic. To completely eliminate micro-stringing and fine surface bubbling, bake the roll at 65°C for 6 to 8 hours in a dedicated filament dryer before hitting print. My Settings: I achieved pristine, glass-smooth results running a 245°C nozzle temperature, an 80°C bed temperature on a textured PEI sheet, and dropping the part cooling fan down to a maximum of 20% to guarantee the absolute toughest structural bonds. The final verdict: Overture has engineered a top-tier engineering plastic that gives you all the industrial impact resistance of traditional PETG, but completely strips away the slow print speed limitations. It feeds flawlessly, winds perfectly tangle-free onto the spool, and maintains ironclad interlayer toughness under heavy torque. It is a fantastic value buy that has earned a permanent place in my workshop's daily material rotation.

UPDATED REVIEW: Getting this PETG to print was a real struggle for me but... it ended up eventually working so in all fairness I've upped my review stars and I take credit for this as "user error". What it boiled down to was print speed. I was working with common slicer templates for PETG which print around 50mm/sec and I see other people reporting success at that speed but, it was a total mess for me. I found a few reviews that suggested turning the speed way down so I tried it and it made all the difference. I am working with a new Ender 3 v2 Noe with PEI build plate. Using about 240 nozzle and 80 bed. My esteps are calibrated spot on, and my flow calibrated to about about 88 for this material in my machine and these temps. I turned the main print speed down to 30mm/sec and the initial layers, supports, and walls down to 15mm/sec and it completely changed my printing experience with this material. ***HERE IS MY INITIAL REVIEW BEFORE I DISCOVERED SLOWING DOWN THE PRINT SPEED*** Based on other reviews and pictures, it seems some people have had great results with this filament. My expectations are low, I just wanted decent results as my prints are mostly functional and I am not overly concerned with aesthetics. Unfortunately after hours of testing and tuning I have not achieved a single acceptable result and will likely give up with this Overature PETG. The filament arrived sealed, I have stored it in a vacuum bag and use a heated filament holder when printing. My machine is a new E3v2 Neo with capricorn PTFE tube and a bi-metal heat break. I also print in an enclosure. ZERO luck with this roll of PETG. The pictures show two temp towers, the one on the left I printed with TECBEARS PLA and the one on the right with Overature PETG. Yes, PLA is nice to work with and as you can see, the PLA tower printed clean starting with 215 and 180 on the top; all layers were good with just a little stringing at the top cooler levels. Again, I just hoped for acceptable results with the PETG; I started at 245 on the bottom with 85 bed temp and finished at 215 on the top layer. All levels look terrible. My e-steps are tuned perfect, I did several flow tests printing single and double walled cubes which resulted in overflow and an adjusted flow rate of 88 which resulted in good flow test results on the test cubes but still most all prints fail, I barely got this temp tower shown in my pictures to print and as you can see, it is terrible in all regards. I have done a ton of tests for 1st layer adhesion and z-offset, my bed is super level (I use octoprint to visualize) and I've tried a few z-offset adjustments, no love... My last 1st layer tests turned out good and then I go to print and it wont stick, the filament globs up on the print head and smears around. I absolutely must have a brim, or better yet a raft or my print fails on the first layer. Sure, some folks have had good luck although I've put in the time and a lot of effort and I give up; I cannot get this filament to produce a useable print on my E3v2 Neo. I am not the only one reporting these challenges, maybe Overature has quality control issues with their PETG? Maybe I never found the perfect adjustments but I sure tried and I have to move on now, I can't spend my whole life trying to get a filament to produce "OK" results. ***SEE TOP OF REVIEW FOR UPDATED SUCCESS STORY***

I’m amazed by both the delivery and the product! I ordered at around 9 PM, and by about 10 AM the very next morning it was already at my door — almost supersonic speed! The filament itself is terrific too. It prints beautifully, feeds smoothly, and the results have been excellent. Very happy with this purchase!

Good PETG for the price. It is not too picky on temperature, it prints fine anywhere from 245-255 on my Ender 3 V2. It doesn't bridge very well but that is to be expected for PETG, if you want to bridge I recommend printing at 245 and turning on bridging settings in Cura which makes bridges possible although pretty ugly. Supports work better than bridging, but can be hard to remove because PETG sticks to itself so well. Here are my settings for Ender 3 v2: micro swiss all-metal hotend / original extruder / original bowden tube bltouch leveling probe + yellow springs nozzle 0.4mm 250c bed plain glass + gluestick, 85c first layer speed 10 speed after first layer 30 first layer height: 0.28 layer height after first layer: 0.2 fan: none unless you are trying to bridge, if so use bridge detection to turn fan 100% only for the bridge retraction 3mm @ 30 I find that the biggest struggle with PETG is just getting the first layer to stick and look good. Once you get past the first layer it is usually smooth sailing. If you have problems with the first layer, first of all dry your filament even if it is brand new. It is an easy way to eliminate frustrations. Also go ahead and calibrate your extruder steps and measure your filament diameter and put that into your slicer, again these are easy steps that ensure you will not be fighting under/over extrusion while you are trying to get everything else figured out. Next use glue stick on plain glass and let the glue stick dry. You want the glass to look dull, not shiny, but it also shouldn't feel sticky to the touch. This combo works great for me, it adheres well but not TOO well and the prints pop themselves off when they cool. Lots of people like hairspray too but gluestick works fine for me and is less messy. Finally the #1 most important thing is to adjust your z offset and first layer height. You cannot mush the filament onto the bed like PLA, it needs to fall out of the nozzle and gently lay down onto the bed. Before doing anything with your z-offset I recommend turning your first layer height up to .28 or .3. The reason is that this sets your nozzle higher AND automatically adjusts the flow rate to match. If you just start bumping your z-offset higher and higher, you will be under-extruding by a lot which can cause its own problems. Once you set your first-layer height to .28, then start printing a test print and live-adjust your Z until the lines lay down and stick to the bed, and are neither gooping up onto the nozzle, nor being hit by the nozzle and pulled off the bed. This is tricky because the sweet spot here is TINY. Like within one or 2 micro-adjustments on the z, either side of that you will have issues. But once you hit the sweet spot on the Z you are golden. Then print some bed leveling test prints and adjust your first layer extrusion multiplier or line width if needed so your lines are touching. I recommend always using the bed level print that is CIRCLES when starting off, not squares. The sharp corners on the squares are super unforgiving and will pop off instantly if your settings aren't right. It is easier to use a bed leveling print with circles to dial your settings in without frustrating yourself and needing to restart the print a hundred times. When printing things over 2" tall I recommend using a wide brim because originally I was using skirt and I have had taller prints pop off the bed right as they are nearly finished, I think the reason is due to the lower part of the print cooling off. A brim is cheap insurance against your whole print being ruined at the last moment, and is easy to remove and leaves little trace that it was ever there.

Prints VERY well. I have been using PLA+ for a long time and I have been getting mixed results. A lot of failed prints, ect. I tried this and have not had a bad print ONCE. prints to a very nice quality, very strong. Prints I could snap with my hands made of PLA hold up much better with this PETG. Excellent bed adhesion with a textured bed. Once it cools down the part just lifts off. I haven't needed to vent to the room like with PLA. Sometimes longer printed would smell, no smell with this. (At least nothing that bothers me). Will be using this going forward. Super easy, makes my printer much more useful.

The filament box and packaging says that it's dried and vacuum sealed. All prints were made with the recommended settings, labeled on the spool and in the pamphlet. I've had 4 different colors and materials of Overture filament. 2 PLA, 1 silk PLA, and 1 PETG. All of them have been a massive pain in the rear-end to tune in, to get good prints. The K-value and Flow Rate ALWAYS need adjusted, and can never just run on a basic preset profile. I spent 52 grams of the filament trying to tune it.. that's about 1.8 ounces, for those who dont metric.... Overture filaments seem to have an issue printing without extensive tuning being done. Seams show really badly. This PETG filament is decent, but not exceedingly great, as far as I have tested it. It hates being used for support apparently, because it refused to detach from itself without marking, even when using slim tree supports, and if you're trying to do a raft with it, forget about it. I've tried prints on smooth plates, and I've tried prints on PEI textured plates. Textured obviously will work better, for adhesion, but at the added issue of an uneven, possibly unwanted, bumpy surface. Once the body of the print gets going it looks great. However, any time it hits a change in shape where there's a sharp corner you're likely to get a spot of trouble. I saw layer lines not sticking together and saw excessive gaps of coverage. I personally HATE when companies use the cardboard spools. Not only are they a mess for any AMS system, due to flaking off bits of cardboard dust, but they almost always warp and cause issues. Time will tell if their edge-sealing holds up. This filament spool comes with a 1-layer lock-and-seal (aka ziploc) system, which is pretty weak. I would rather see them using a double seal.

El producto es muy bueno y el tono es agradable. Es un poco más caro que otras marcas pero vale la pena por lo que es el tipo de material y tono disponible. Lo negativo (y no tan grave) es que al ser carrete de cartón, llega a dañarse en el traslado y si lo usas con algun sistema multicolor (ams,CFS,ace pro, etc) puede que te de algún tipo de problema.

This is a good filament that prints well and gives good strong finishes to my prints. Using with a creality 3 pro and it sticks to the print surface well and the flow is also good. Will buy more of this brand.

Fungerar utan problem.

I made my 3D Printer out of Wood, Plastic Tobacco cans, Skate board bearings, What ever I could find around the house. Until I 3D printed as much of the frame as I could With Weed Eater Line, then Abs. Needless to say She has some Vibration =D I can not wait for my Bearings to come in, But She works and this stuff is great! Weed Eater Line is INCREDIBLY Hard to Print with And Clogs Like NO OTHER, And Abs Likes to Warp. I like to Use a Glue Stick (Kids school glue stick) and will go over my Mirror/Glass and make two thin layers. Doing this with this PETG Created such a strong bond It Ripped a Chuck of glass out of my Mirror. I have had parts mess up at the beginning when printing a Tray of clips and just the Extruding Filament falling on the bed started a new print for that clip from like 2mm away from the bed! I Am Defiantly Buying More And the price is not to bad! Next time I will Just buy without the Print Bed Liner to save a buck, It looks Nice but My bed is to big, Will cut a mirror for it and use it when I'm out of Glue =D

Excelente producto y color lo que permite tener un buen terminado de producto