SOMMER Direct Drive 1042V004 Black Metal Garage Door Opener, 42 x 10 x 6.5 inches

I have had this garage door opener for 10 years and still as quiet as it was brand new. I had one problem and that was solved by cleaning a couple contacts as instructed by the mfg. Since that one time no problems whatsoever. Money well spent. Yea no bells and whistles but they sell an emergency release for it and I have s independent Wifi garage door opener and camera. So that solved that problem. Best garage door opener in the world8 months now and now believe its time for a thorough review. There are some items you know as soon as you open the box that what you just opened is a quality product or junk. This is a quality product. The packaging of this was superior, it was boxed inside another box that was secured with plastic strapping. Everything was packaged in its place, very well organized and easy to make sure everything was there. Installation was quite simple and without any issues. My only concern was the electronic head that houses the lights was not as secured as I would hope. The rail slides in what I will call the head unit only maybe 6 inches and there is a post you turn on the side that locks the unit on the rail. There is no back support so the "head" does sag ever so slightly, its quite light in weight and doesn't house any moving parts, so this hasn't been an issue, just would have liked to see the rail a little longer to support the housing a little more. that being said programming is simple. There is a button on the head unit that you press and you sync a remote by pressing one of the 2 buttons on the remote. There is an option for one of the two buttons to operate a separate feature, like partial opening of the garage door and stopping, or operating the light only. I could not identify why either of those options would be a feature I would need. I assume if you were inside the garage and wanted to only partially open it without having to hit the stop button. I optioned to have both buttons open the garage door all the way, the buttons are small and I didn't want to know which button was for which feature, so they can both be programed the same without any problems. Still the same press the button on the head and a red light flashes letting you know its in program mode and then press one of the buttons of the remote and then a green light flashes letting you know its synched up. Do this a second time for the other button. As far as distance the remotes operate, I can be almost 1 house away and the door will operate. There is a function on this opener that allows for slow start up and finish with a ramp up speed in-between. Meaning the door starts opening slowly and after a second or 2 it picks up speed and before it finishes its travel it begins so slow down. this feature can be disabled on installation. The door is slow but when I hit the remote when I am a house away I really don't have much to wait for the door to clear so I can drive in. I am never in that much a hurry that I can't wait a few seconds. The feature I like is when the door closes, the drive backs off just a tad to take pressure off the motor, so it closes and you hear it click and release for a moment. This way the door doesn't close with pressure held on the motor. There is only 1 moving part in this whole unit and thats the gear inside the DC motor that runs along the inside track chain, like a bicycle chain on the gear, however the chain doesn't move only the gear does and its so quiet that initially I had to turn around entering the house as I could not hear the door move. I have had compliments on how quiet it is, people can't believe it. Just last week I was pulling out of the driveway and the door kept opening after it closed. I finally got out of my car and noticed that there was a small chunk of ice in the way and the door was hitting the ice and the safety feature released the door and never did it crush the ice which I did with my foot. This is a nice safety feature knowing it wouldn't damage a piece of ice which was more like a chunk of snow/ice that falls off the back of a car wheel well. It wasn't hard at all to set, with the door on the ground held by gravity you set the close switch on the rail by sliding it back and forth until you hear a click, thats the set position for the door close, thats it. From there the safety feature knows how much pressure it detects after it reaches the closed position. No adjustment screws to turn, does it automatically.There is an option from the mfg for a key release in the event of a power failure. Its a simple cable operated by the turn of a key that releases the disengage the pull release. This requires drilling a hold for the lock, but still a nice feature in the event the power goes out and not having to worry about a battery that dies from age.I would highly recommend this for a quiet well German made door opener. 100% guaranteed for life and in the event a motor or electronic feature dies, the mfg will replace for free. 2 parts the electronic head unit and the DC motor. There are no chains to break as this chain is encased in a plastic case and doesn't move so short of ripping it out of the ceiling should never be an issue. There are no belts to stretch out and there is no screw that needs periodical cleaning and re-greasing thats a mess and pain to do. This requires ZERO maintenance, no lubrication nothing. A well made high quality garage door opener.

I purchased this Sommer opener to replace a 15 year old ¾ horse screw drive opener that started to get a mind of its own and randomly opening or not wanting to close, even after changing the dip switches for the rotating code on the off-hand chance it was a neighbor's signal matching mine. I have a standard 2" thick 16'x7' door.The install of the new opener took me about 8 hours total, including removing the old system, a trip to the hardware store to devise a new mounting system. I ended up with two 4 foot steel angle brackets bolted with lag screws into the ceiling trusses that allowed me to position the support brackets for the track (included in the box) with some flexibility. The main support on this opener is on the track itself, not the control unit at the end of the track so the old support wasn't at all where the new needed to be. The fact my ceiling is finished was another problem. Once the new supports were in, assembly and install was done pretty quickly re-using existing wiring.Inserting the motor assembly was a minor challenge as the release must be held using the emergency pull rope at the same time you must align the motor with the chain guide and the track, I needed an extra set of hands to help with that step.I mounted the new track so the pull position of the motor matched the pull position of the old one. The track is a bit longer than the old one by about one foot so plan for that.I was able to re-use all the prior wiring (wall switch and the left/right door sensors). The new system doesn't care about polarity so connections are very simple.When the unit is powered on, it must be activated 4 times (2 open/close cycles) to calibrate itself and during that time, the lights flash on and off. The calibration is apparently for the electronics to figure out the pull/push forces on the door during its travel. There is no separate control for force unlike my old unit.The unit is very, very quiet compared to the screw drive, and it's more of a hum than any mechanical sound. In fact, we can hear the door itself much more than the motor. There is no vibration at all.The power to the motor assembly (looks to be 24V) comes from the track itself. The chain is wrapped in a plastic sheath, and the return is the track itself from what I can tell. Looks pretty safe, although the instructions say of course the track should not get wet. The track looks to be only powered when the motor is moving. Note that the track has no moving parts - the motor housing travels along the track.The door movement starts slow but then seems to accelerate when the door is a foot or so off the ground. I read complaints about how slow the movement was, I'm not seeing that. It's a bit slower than the old opener but really not that different.I have some minor complaints to share - not significant enough to knock a star off but:1) Programming a new code in the external wireless keypad isn't simple and required me to do a reset the first time through as there is no confirmation of the button press when you enter the new code. The reset involves punching in a 9 digit number on a sticker that has a font size of about 6 so extremely hard to read. The keypad LEDs do not flash for each number entered when a new code is entered so it's easy to miss a partial press. My prior wireless keypad was much more intuitive to setup and use. Note - the wireless keypad was an extra purchase for me (it was cheaper to get the part separate than in a bundle - weird).2) The remotes for the cars are almost too stylish and as such very narrow (3.5"x1"), and the button is very small (1/4" diameter). The size makes it very hard to locate especially as there are two of them right next to one another. While I appreciate the small form factor and modern look, locating such a small button at night is still something I'm getting used to. Range wasn't a problem for me although I didn't do a full test. It seems to work from about 50' away.3) The door sensors proved very finicky to align and appear to have a very narrow beam. The door won't close at all unless the sensors are hooked up and finding each other. I had trouble initially as the vibration of the door was enough to throw these out of alignment until I moved the units closer to the wall where they move a lot less than at the end of the support bracket.The positives in my book are:1) Unit is extremely quiet with no vibrations and doesn't seem to mind repeated open/close cycles. My door makes a lot more noise than the opener even if it's on nylon rollers2) Install was simple and straightforward with good instructions (except that I had to come up with a new mounting system).3) Automated calibration and clever design.4) As far as door openers go, looks very 21st century compared to other offerings on the market.

This is simply a great unit. All of the parts fit together well and appear to be built well. It is SUPER quiet too. This is the first garage door opener I have ever installed and feel like it was pretty easy. It took me several hours, but that was not due to the product being difficult to install, but rather me being ridiculous and making even the mounting brackets that I fabricated from the ceiling to the opener perfect.One suggestion on installation.....READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. Read them before you start installing or assembling anything. Read them ALL the way through before you start, and then read each step all the way through as you are installing. It's really not a difficult installation, but don't waste your own time by making stupid mistakes and having to take things apart and put them back together the right way because you didn't read everything. Seriously, just do it.There have been a few gripes about the Homelink working with certain cars. As far as I can tell, this unit really should work with any Homelink. I have a 2007 Lexus IS350 and the instructions did not work that were in my owners manual. A quick call to Homelink actually corrected this with some new directions. Apparently with the code rolling technology you can't use the garage door remotes to train the homelink. In fact, you don't need the garage door opener at all to train the car. Below are the instructions that the nice lady from Homelink was nice enough to send me. Hopefully it helps someone here as well. I was so worried that my car wasn't compatible, but now it works perfectly! These instructions are different than some of the other's I've seen before so give these a shot if you aren't having any luck. I'm not sure if this method erases any of the old codes you may have had programmed so if that is a concern you might just call Homelink directly.Here are the directions:2007 Lexus IS - Why won't the Homelink program to the Somner opener?HomeLink - How do I program the HomeLink to a Sommer opener?AnswerNote: Some vehicles may require the ignition to be turned on or to the second (or "accessory") position for programming and/or operation of HomeLink. Please make sure that people and objects are out of the way of the moving door or gate when programming to prevent potential harm or damage.HomeLink Programming1. For first time programming with a Sommer opener, press and hold all 3 HomeLink buttons for approximately 30 seconds, releasing only when the Homelink indicator light turn off. (Do not perform this step when programming the additional Homelink buttons)2. To ensure HomeLink is in the proper training mode, press and hold each of the buttons individually. When pressed, the individual Homelink button should make the indicator light blink rapidly for 2 seconds and then turn a solid/continuous light.A second person may make the following steps easier3. At the garage door opener receiver (motor head unit) in the garage, locate the training button (usually near where the hanging antenna wire is attached to the unit). If there is difficulty locating the training button, please reference the door opener manual, visit our website [...] or contact us at 1-800-355-3515.4. Press and release the training button (which activates the "training" light) NOTE: Once the button is pressed, there are approximately 30 seconds (confirm with Sommer) in which to initiate the next step.5. Return to the vehicle and firmly press and hold the desired HomeLink button to be programmed for ONLY two seconds and release. Repeat the "press/hold/release" a second time to activate the door. (You may need to repeat the sequence up to 3 times to complete the training process).HomeLink should now activate your rolling code equipped opener.Once programmed, the HomeLink Wireless Control System or the original hand held transmitter may be used to activate the Sommer garage door opener. In the event there are still programming difficulties, please contact HomeLink at 1-800-355-3515 or visit our website at [...]I'll update my review more later once I have more experience with the function. Everything seems to be working great though!

The opener (track, controller, and drive unit) comes with one remote wired and two remote wireless actuators. In addition to opening and closing the garage door, the wireless actuators can be programmed to operate the overhead light (which only stays on for a short 3 minutes). You have to order a keyless remote ($36) separately to operate the garage door from an external wall mounted location. Programming for all of the remotes is reasonably straightforward Regarding the mechanics and basic features.The opener is extremely quiet, and can barely be heard even in the adjoining rooms of the house. However, as mentioned in other reviews, this opener is very slow, and that's why I deducted a star. Since we have an inclined driveway, slow operation poses a problem in the winter when the driveway surface is slippery and I need a running start to get into the garage.Except for lifting and aligning the track, most of the assembly and installation can be done by one person. The installation kit didn't have the right bracket to mate with my existing Wayne-Dalton door, so I had to order that separately. My old openers was a Wayne-Dalton iDrive, which directly operated the torsion spring shaft by countering left and right torsion springs. This poorly designed iDrive system is no longer sold. It resulted in garage door misalignment and eventual failure due to roller binding. I had to re-balance both torsion springs and replace the door rollers. Fortunately, the new Direct Drive could be installed without removing the iDrive unit from the torsion shaft. Alignment and calibration for the Direct Drive took a while, but wasn't overly complicatedDocumentation for linking the homelink in our van weren't adequate, so you need to go to homelink.com for programming instructions. The web site said "push all three buttons" and it worked immediately (this seems to be the only opener that requires all three buttons to program)My main goal was to have enough power to avoid door binding in the winter, plus quiet operation, which this system delivers. However, I wish someone figured out a way to increase the speed of this system to match what you get with a traditional opener. On the other hand, the slower operation will probably result in longer, trouble-free operation.

I purchased the opener for opening a standard non-insulated double-wide garage door. The instructions may seem a little daunting if all the words are read because the choice of words used is somewhat strange and convoluted. I used the full instruction manual to install but then looked at the "Quick Start Installation Guide" after I was done and realized it was probably more useful because it skips all the safety notices for checking x, y & z and having an electrician do this or that - since I was doing a replacement installation I already knew the structural integrity of all the headers and overhead bracket attachments and the power outlet already existed, etc. The pictures and diagrams will make more sense if everything is taken out of the packaging and set out per the parts list. The installation was uneventful and setting the end stop locations was easy, as was performing the "learn" mode for the opener to allow it to learn the force required to open and close the door. The photo eyes installed very easily and the alignment was quick. The opener is very, very quiet. This was important since I have a bedroom over the garage. The opener does not require a lot of clearance between its drive rail and the door, and it mounts parallel to the overhead door rails unlike the older screw-drive unit I was replacing which required an angled installation to assist the opener with moving the door. My garage has a low-pass door because of the low ceiling height (older house construction with bedroom overhead) so the minimal clearance the opener required was a plus. The only minor aggravation encountered was with trying to program the opener to work with a 2001 Honda Accord with HomeLink. The opener learn mode flashes in response to the Accord's HomeLink signals but the opener does not respond for operation. About four hours were spent trying the instructions on the Sommer support web page and the HomeLink support web page but to no avail. I am assuming the 2001 Accord HomeLink is just too old a version of firmware to work with the newer opener. I am using the transmitter on the visor (adds a little visual clutter but that is okay). The opener is slower than the unit I replaced but the door is generally fully opened as I drive up the driveway and during closing I always pause to watch the door close. Those of you who like everything fast may be disappointed but the speed of the opener is not a major consideration for me. I see the slower operation as a plus for safety and longevity of the opener and door. I purchased the wireless keypad and it installs easily - the instructions are strangely worded but after I figured out the keypad code sets the keypad active for the "active time" and any key push will signal the opener to operate, everything came together. This is my first Sommer opener so I will have to update this review in time to give feedback on how well it holds up under use. So far, I very pleased and plan to buy a second opener for my single car door.

The install was simple but it still took a few hours - there is just a lot to do. This unit was a replacement of a different brand that I installed 16 years ago. The old one still worked but, after 16 years, I was FINALLY motivated to do something about the awful racket and vibrations from the old garage door opener. Through the years, I had greased the tracks with various greases, sprays, and goops. I also replaced the steel rollers with nylon rollers in attempts to quite the old one, which did make a noticeable difference. Finally I bought this unit. I don't know what I was waiting for!Watch the video online to make the installation procedure go more smoothly. I did the whole thing without an assistant so it took longer but the whole install will be easy if you have a small bit of mechanical aptitude and a step ladder. The most daunting task (which I fudged) would have been running all new wiring from the electric eyes to the drive unit and from the opener console to the drive unit. Instead of pulling down all the old wires and stapling up new, I simply installed the new electric eyes at the door, cut the old wires, cut the new wires from the new sensors and spliced into the old wiring which I then connected to the new drive unit. I took care to wrap the splices really well in electrical tape and even considered using shrink wrap tubing but did not. This simplified things and saved a fair amount of time. I did the same with the wiring from the console you install at the inside door to the house. I just reused the wire that was already in place and connected each end of the existing wire to the appropriate terminals at the console and the drive unit.Regarding operation, it really and truly is VERY quiet. Our old opener could easily be heard in any room of the house. This one is not silent but is really, really quiet. The door itself makes a couple of squeaks and groans still but that's not noise from this unit. There is a low level hum from the unit that can be readily heard in the garage. The garage has a bedroom directly above it. The hum can be heard if you sit quietly in that room but it does not wake up my daughter if she's asleep. The garage door opening and closing cannot be heard in any other part of the house. That's my best assessment of the noise level. It is very likely a near-miraculous improvement for anyone with a noisy garage door opener but if you do not currently have an electric garage door opener, then you will hear a low-level amount of sound associated with it. I would think that it is the quietest one on the market, without having tried any others except for the 16-yr-old Craftsman I was glad to ditch. Now the whole family enjoys the sound of silence when my wife heads to the gym at 5 AM each morning. Should have done this years ago.Clarification: I know the main box you mount to the ceiling that operates the opener isn't technically called the drive unit because the lifting of the door is done by a shuttle that moves along a stationary chain but I used that terminology because I thought most readers would understand that I meant the control unit that attaches to the back end of the drive rail. I'm still not sure what to call it but it houses the electronics, receives the wireless signal from the remotes, and houses the lights that light up during operation. Hence, the drive unit.

The opener is rather simple to install. I'm handy and it still took about 2 hours. Rather than install new sensors, I reused the old ones from my Overhead Door chain opener that died. This might save you a few minutes too. The hardest part, literally, was getting the cars to work with the opener. Not the end of the world hard, but wow. For me, I used Somers instructions and NOT Homelink, but results will be different for everyone.Real world testing:Old chain drive Overhead Door "Legacy" - 65dbDirect Drive opener - 55dbBackground with doors closed - 38dbI used my iPhone to take the readings while standing under the opener. It's quite enough to hardly be heard in the house. While it is slow, it's exactly the same speed as the Overhead Door unit it replaced. Now lets see if it last longer than other units....Update 3 years later...No, It doesn't last longer than other units. The unit has had trouble knowing the "pressures" and will often flash the lights. It's been adjusted and "relearned" MANY times. Today the unit just stopped dead in it's tracks. None of the trouble shooting tips applied. I reverted to my own common sense and found that the pads that transfer power from the control box to the rail for the motor to use were VERY burnt. The plastic on the control box was even melted. I used sandpaper to clean them up as much as I could and was able to get it working again. I suspect this will be a yearly or even more often service issue I'll face....at least until the unit fails from the increased resistance and heat. I'll just have to hope my house doesn't burn down with it. I'll call the customer service number at the inconvenient times listed and see what happens. Overall I'd have to advise people to plan on a 5 year replacement OR find another product with a better design.Photo of pad AFTER cleaning.Almost made it to 5 years...almost. The burning contact points are pitting and melting more plastic. Often this door will stop where it feels like it, so now I have to watch my door move through the motions to make sure the contact pad failure doesn't cause issue. Is this part of the lifetime warranty coverage? Probably, but it's a design flaw that I'm not willing to put up with. Also, for the same price you can find units with battery backup, wifi app things, and the same level of noise, and a key pad included. My advice...avoid this product.

If you are looking for a new garage door opener, stay away from the usual brands like Genie or Chamberlain (I tried them both), and go with this Sommer Direct Drive unit. It's an amazing opener, but let me first touch on the 2 quirks of this unit. First, the screws that are used to set the front and back limit stops are extremely hard to turn, too hard in my opinion. So, while you have the rail on the floor, make sure to tighten these screws most of the way while allowing the limit stop to still move; it's brutal to tighten them once the rail is up. The second quirk is how the wiring connector is configured. There is really not enough space, and getting the wires in is a bit tricky. Now, the good stuff. I have never seen such a quiet opener; it is slower than others, but it's perfect in terms of not putting strain on your garage door. When you open the box, you'll think you are unpacking an Apple product; the packaging is that good. Parts fit together perfectly, the quality is extremely high, and installation is very easy. To demonstrate ow easy it is to install, I'll let you know that I am totally blind and I did it by myself in a little over 2 hours from beginning to end; the video for this unit is very good. The parts are made in such a way that you really cannot put it together incorrectly. I do agree with other reviewers that the remotes provided with the unit are extremely small and you do have to work to hit the button; also, you have to hold the button a bit before the door opens. But that is so minor since I was able to get it working with my Acura TSX. Finally, after assembling the rail system (3 sections with 2 connectors), the rail on this unit is very stiff, unlike most of the openers out there now.

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