Not-a-Plug-and-Play (Type B) & Clear T8 LED Tube Light - 2FT 24-Inch 10W (18W Equivalent), Daylight 6000K, F17T8, F18T8, F20T10, F20T12/CW, Double-End Powered, Clear Cover, 85-265VAC

The light produced by these bulbs more than outperformed the 2-20 watt bulbs they replaced.We really like the super bright lighting provided by the 6000K color LEDs in the tubes. When I say bright I mean bright, way stronger than the standard 20watt 2ft. My wife says its like being in an operating room working now at the kitchen sink. The 6000 kelvin color is really much whiter/blueish in color compared to typical color of 4000K or 3700K florescent bulbs. If I did it again I may have looked for a 4000K version but these bulbs are doing a fine job. Rather than purchase frosted tubes to put in a fixture with a diffuser lens I opted for the clear lenses on the bulbs. They were rated slightly higher for lumen output. Plus the fact that I have a defuser lens on the fixture meant that I wouldn't have two defusers for light to go through.INSTALLATION:- I glanced at the picture but I already knew how to wire these since I bought them for the easiest installation possible without requiring me to replace parts.- These bulbs obtain power similar to the older bulbs (you do NOT need to buy new electrical ends) which is a major plus. I also think that requiring an electrical connection at each end is safer than both connections on the same end spaced 1/4" apart, especially when we occasionally have a ton of steam rising above the sink for spaghetti being strained.- I just cut the power feed to the ballast. Cut the power lines feeding all four ends close to the ballast so I had a lot of slack in the wire to play with. Wired the wires feeding the right side of the fixture light sockets to the black power feed and then wired the left 2 bulb plug ends to the white power feed wire. Installed a wire nuts on the two connections and powered it up. It was that simple. I decided to leave the unused ballast in the fixture since throwing it away and going into a landfill was less desirable than just leaving it in place.LIGHT OUTPUT:- Much brighter that traditional florescent 2ft 20watt bulbs- The light shines downward where you want it. No wasted light shining up to the back side of the light fixture- My lights turn on faster than the ballast version- No hum or noise like an older ballast sometimes make- Voltage rating shows that these guys should even work during a brownout whereas florescent definitely would not. (we get brownouts sometimes in summer)- Total power consumption when operating is similar to 2 old style night light bulbs.COST:- 20 watt Florescent bulbs, since not as popular as 4ft bulbs are similar in price, before adding shipping.In the electronics industry we've long ago replaced incandescent panel indicator status lights with LEDs (Light Emitting Diodes) . I've known some LEDs to last longer than 20 years even when illuminated 24 hours a day. I'm not sure what the life with these will be, mostly determined by power conversion components, but time will tell.If I have a problem with these lights I'll be sure to follow-up....

I was replacing a fluorescent tube and was concerned this LED would be too directional and not illuminate the upper part of the closet because it's mounted above the door not on the ceiling. I'm please to say it casts light 180 deg. and all the reflected light covers the entire space. And it's bright.

This 2 foot bulb fits perfectly in a conventional T8 (thinner) socket or the older fatter T12 (thicker) socket. I have the older conventional fluorescent fixtures in the kitchen. The fluorescent fixtures are under the cabinets, so you can't really see them and they provide down lighting on the countertop under the cabinets. Lots of people have something like this.It's important to follow the wiring directions carefully. They are simple but you would be surprised how easy it is to goof it up. If you've ever had trouble installing a light dimmer or ground fault (GFI) outlet, then you will know what I mean. It's all simple if you get it exactly right but there are numerous ways to get it wrong. And when you get it wrong, it lets you know immediately, usually with a pop or a bang noise and maybe even a little smoke.DO NOT PLUG THIS TUBE INTO A CONVENTIONAL FIXTURE WITH A BALLAST! If you do it will not light up, it will probably ruin the tube, and you are sure to have extra heat and possibly smoke due to the ballast trying to drive a short on both ends of the tube. The ballast must be completely removed from the fixture (removed electrically speaking). If you want to physically remove it, that's fine. I just clipped the blue and red wires on my ballast and then disconnected the white (neutral) and black (hot) 120 VAC from the ballast. You don't have to disconnect the white and black to the ballast but it is strongly recommended because the ballast isn't used and it might waste a tiny amount of electricity for no good reason. But you MUST clip those high voltage blue and red wires from the ballast, otherwise you will get heat and smoke and the light won't light at all.Here's the main reason why I'm writing this... you must connect 120 VAC across the length of the tube, not on one side. That means the white neutral must go to one end of the tube and the black hot must go to the other end of the tube, This is completely opposite to the way a conventional florescent tube is wired. Normally you have a voltage going to one side of the tube to light the filament (I suspect it's 120 volts). And you have voltage (120?) going to the other end of the tube also to light the filament at the other end. And then the ballast's main purpose is to generate about 400 volts across the ends of the tube so that electrons that boil off the lighted filament go racing to the other end so that they can bump into mercury vapor along the way and generate ultraviolet light that is frequency shifted down into the visible light spectrum by the florescent coating on the tube where it fluoresces. Gee whiz, maybe they ought to call these things florescent tubes?Anyway, the high voltage that the ballast generates for a florescent tube will fry this LED replacement, so you better ditch that ballast. And the secondary from the ballast that is wired to the each end of the fixture will get fried when you plug in this LED tube because this LED tube has those two connects shorted internally on purpose, SO YOU BETTER DITCH THAT BALLAST!Lastly, don't connect 120 volts (both white and black) to one end the way I did. I misunderstood the directions and I wired 120 to one end which is somewhat logical since there are 2 terminals and the socket was designed to deliver 120 VAC to one end or the other. When I first turned on the lights with it wired that way I heard a buzzing noise and no lights. That's no good, so I immediately turned off the switch. I didn't pop the breaker and I didn't blow out the light or anything. I corrected the wiring problem by moving the hot black wire to the other connector on the other side of the fixture. So white goes to one side and black goes to the other side. Presto, everything works fine and everyone one is happy. I left the ballast in there with the wires clipped.This tube works well, it's a cross between a warm and cool white, so a neutral white at 4000K. It's slightly cooler than the 3100K FEIT 4 foot LED replacements you can get at Costco. You can see the individual LEDs through my fixture's opaque covering but since mine is hidden under the cabinets, it doesn't matter. Good luck and go LED.

I have to agree with Dean H's review. I thought I had this thing buttoned up and a couple sparks and I realizedI needed to read the instructions more carefully. The only difference Form Dean's is I tripped a breaker. The instructions are fairly clear, Black wires to 1 side, white wires to the other.I was able to convert my entire granite shop from fluorescents to LED exactly like this, but somehow . . . lol.The only draw back for me was the light is directional (normally a big advantage), but I put this up into a stove hood and the light pointed more back than down. Not the fault of this product, just difference in design. I didn't knock any stars off, because the product is made correctly for most applications. I was able to put a little twist and still get good coverage though.

LED strips come with heat sinks. The terminals come with little plastic protectors for shipping. Documentation is included. Lights are apparently advertised brightness and color temperature. They look pretty decent.

Not hard, but fiddly job to remove ballast and re-wire. Instructions were good, and in my fixture there was plenty of wire to re-connect after clipping out the ballast.

These fit perfectly to our T8 fluorescent light fixture. We followed the instructions to remove the ballast on the fixture BEFORE installing these new bulbs. No more flickering and they are very bright. 5000K is neutral daylight light temperature. Doesn't cast a green shade on your face.

happy

Seem good qualityBut unfurtunality i buy the wrong one need 18" inch buu 24" inch ..my mistake but will buy again in futur for sure