Wolman 1904A WOODLIFE CopperCoat Green Wood Preservative, Quart

Great product, did entire deck, expensive, yet it will help in the long run

I used Woodlife wood preservative on leftover construction wood to build a garden gate. After applying it, I lightly sanded the wood and sealed it with three coats of spar urethane, sanding between each.Woodlife acts as a crucial first defense against moisture-related mold and pests, but it doesn’t seal wood from water damage—an additional topcoat is necessary. It’s great for outdoor wood or any wood exposed to fluctuating temperatures and humidity, including house beams (though not for food-contact surfaces).For easy application, I used a spray bottle and let it dry overnight. The clear version dried invisibly. A year later, my gate remains strong, mold-free, and pest-free, despite a design flaw: I didn't shape the wood scraps used in it's construction and they're blocky pieces with perfect flat sides—the top was flat, which caused water to pool. Over time, this wore down the sealant, but Woodlife prevented rot or infestation. I have time to address the issue.The attached pictures show the year-old finished gate as the woodlife had dried, when the gate was installed (nighttime picture), and now (daytime picture). Hope this helps!

Why did you pick this product vs others?:Used something like this before to preserve the wood in the ground from the termites and other bugs and rot. Seems to smell like the old stuff I used before long time ago. We shall see how long it last.

I recently used Rust-Oleum CopperCoat to protect my deck from rot and decay, and overall, I am quite pleased with the product. While I haven't had it on my deck long enough to see how it will perform in the long run, it was easy to apply and seemed to penetrate deeply into the wood, providing thorough protection.One thing to note is that the green color of the preservative can be a bit strong and may take some getting used to if you're used to a natural wood look. However, I appreciate the added protection it provides, and the color has started to fade a bit over time.Overall, I would recommend Rust-Oleum CopperCoat to anyone looking to protect their deck or other outdoor wood structures. While I can't speak to its long-term effectiveness just yet, the ease of application and thorough coverage make it a solid choice.

This wood preservative was recommended years back by a company that sells porch swings in New Orleans. If it's good enough for New Orleans weather, it's good enough for me. It's done a great job preserving that swing and any other wooden outdoor furniture for us. There's very little change in the wood color and your can apply stain over it. Highly recommend.

I applied it to my cedar exterior walls 2 months ago and it seems to be doing the job at repelling water. When the water hits it it beads up instead of letting it soak through. I compared it to the other exterior cedar walls that have not been treated yet and they do not do the same. I applied 3 coats. I will follow up with another review after I apply stain over it.

One quart was enough to treat 29” of six 4x4 cedar posts with 2 coats. This treatment supports a post being set 28 inches deep, which was what I needed for the height of fence that I was repairing. Be sure to coppercoat treat at least 1 inch above the depth you plan to set the post because rot damage as post enters the ground is often most aggressive. Do not treat the entire post - only the part of the post in and near the ground level needs rot defense treatment. Wear protective gloves as recommended on the can. I put each post in a 5 gallon bucket as I brushed on the coppercoat so that any excess that ran off as I brushed was captured for re-use (and to avoid runoff excess causing ground toxicity). I applied two treatment layers with a partial dry time between coats of about a one hour. Make sure to use any small remainder of coppercoat treatment as an extra layer on the post ends and around the area of the post that will be near the soil surface. Those surface areas on the post tend to be the most vulnerable points of attack for posts sitting in the ground for long periods. When setting the treated post, tamping in a small layer of gravel in the bottom of the posthole before setting the post may also help reduce rot risk. Posts set in soggy ground may need more coats for longevity, but I am hoping that these treated replacement cedar posts will, like the originals, last 30 to 40 years before they develop any significant rot weakness problems.