🚗 Bend, Replace, Drive - Your Safety, Our Priority!
This Nickel/Copper Brake Line Tubing Coil measures 3/16" x 25' and is DOT approved for various automotive applications, including hydraulic and ABS brake systems. Its rust and corrosion-proof design, along with easy bending capabilities, makes it an essential choice for reliable vehicle maintenance.
K**.
Extreme quality, so easy it may as well be a cheat code.
They're not charging enough for this. Just buy it. The pre-bent stainless lines never fit properly, and you can't correct that at home.You can get this stuff straight as an arrow with no tools whatsoever, bend it around a flashlight, bend it by hand...When you watch a pro bending lines, and wonder at how easy they make it look... You're going to have just an easy a time with this. It forms more readily than copper (which is not appropriate for a car of any kind), and is almost as strong as steel; easily double the capacity of any car you'll use it for.I'm terrible at bending tubing; I always have been. There never really seemed to be a good reason I couldn't do it; but I suppose nerve damage is a problem. I either push things too light or much too hard; but I haven't had any issues with this stuff.I was cursing like crazy thinking I was going to have lines that weren't straight, because I hate seeing that. Who buys a coil without a $150 straightener and thinks he'll get a straight line? Not me.Well, I was wrong. This stuff is idiot proof.On top of that, it looks way better than it does in the pictures. That's a very bright, smooth, shiny finish quality. It looks great, and comes coiled PROPERLY with no kinks. Even the center tight coils can be straightened by hand, right out to the end. It's also capped on both ends with rubber to keep it clean during storage and shipping; and very tightly and securely packaged with very tough clear wrap.These are not "copper" lines, which you shouldn't use on a car. This an alloy that's been around a LONG time in various industries, but was first used on automobiles in Europe a few decades ago; and still is.Don't buy pre-bent stainless lines. The only manufacturer out there has no idea what they're doing. Don't buy steel and fight with it, just to end up with a sloppy job that will work harden and crack.Get this stuff, and you'll be able to reach every clip on your frame or axle without even the slightest hassle; and the line will be retained properly even under heavy vibration. The most important part of adding hard lines is ensuring that the connections aren't supporting the weight of the line.In order to do that, you need that line retained, and pre-bent lines won't work. They touch things, they don't reach, they're pointed in the wrong direction at times, and you CAN'T safely adjust them at home without hundreds of dollars of equipment and experience...This stuff will allow you to hit all the factory retention points without spending another... nickle (pun intended) on brackets and/or retainers. Your job will go from looking like junk to looking like you've been doing it for years.
J**3
won't flare right
I've had four baches of this stuff - two coiled from here and two straight ones from Advance Auto. Only one of the straights would bubble right for the double inverted flare - all other ones would crease or collapse (depending on what flaring tool I used) on the backside of the bubble. The difference isn't whether it comes coiled or straight, it's not dimensions - dimensions are identical and to spec, I tried hardening and annealing and it made no difference. What is the difference - I couldn't figure it out. I made a systematic study of it and failed. I used Eastwood hydraulic (which appears to be the same tool AGS sells on their site), Earl's hand tool and 4LifeTime Brakes hand tool. I tried different positions in the dies too. The best bubble seemed to be a mm back in the Earl's tool. Clarification - the one straight piece I got that wouldn't flare right had factory bubble ends on it - the one straight piece I had that would flare right had factory double inverted flare ends which makes sense being they couldn't have flared it right either if it was the bad stuff.
J**E
Good stuff
After reading reviews, I chose to spend the extra money to purchase this instead of the cheaper products available. Great to work with!
J**.
the best
easy to work with, first time double flares a plus, and corrosion resistant.
J**W
Easy to use
Some of the Chinese cheap steel brands produce nothing but leaky joints which I thought was my problem. Nope. Even bought a new $$ flaring tool Still no joy. This tubing works well with the old tool as well as my new one.
M**R
Excellent
Excellent for a garage mechanic like me. Easy to bend and much easier to use than stock steel brake lines.
J**
Nice brake line
This is the way to go if you are replacing brake lines. Easy to bend and flare. No complaints.
J**S
Easy To Work With, Great Results!
This is the favored brake line for repairs at the Full Throttle Garage charity shop where I volunteer time. It is a labor and frustration saver. Double flared or bubble flared ends come out nice, and the material is easy to shape.I can recommend it for all applications, except restorations which require the use of original materials!
D**E
Best brake line you can buy
Love this product. Best one on the market for this application
G**T
Easy to work with ..great stuff
Nice
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