Lindy HDMI CEC Less Adapter, Female to Male (41232)

I have a Samsung QN65Q7FAM TV and a Samsung HW-M550/ZA sound bar. The other day when I tried using an optical audio cable from my TV to my sound bar and not an HDMI cable, the Dolby digital 5.1 sounds a lot better than it did when using the TV ARC connection. Only problem? I lose all of the neat HDMI-CEC (Any-net +) stuff when using optical over HDMI. What happens when I use both HDMI ARC and optical? The TV automatically defaults to HDMI making my optical connection useless. And then I found out about this little doohickey. It actually does allow me to use both the TV ARC and an optical cable together, but now it routes only the audio through the optical cable without trying to default through the HDMI. The only bad thing is- I had to practically turn off all the TV smart features(which I don’t use anyway) because even though now when I go to turn the TV off, my soundbar doesn’t turn off immediately like it did before. It actually has to wait about five minutes before it figures out there’s no incoming signal but, after everything‘s been turned off for a while, when I go to turn on my TV whether I’m using the TVs remote or my Apple TV’s remote, the TV still does turn on the soundbar and after turning off my TV smart features, I don’t have to go into my TV settings anymore and change the audio output from the TV speakers to the soundbar so all in all, this little adapter does work. Unfortunately, it’s not exactly like it was when I was using the TV ARC but for everything else I can do, I’ll take it. Not only that, being that I found out my TV can’t properly pass Dolby digital 5.1 to my sound bar using an HDMI cable- even if I go into my Apple TV settings and change the audio output from LPCM to Dolby digital 5.1; the only way to properly do that between the TV and the sound bar is through an optical cable.

After literally years of frustration with HDMI audio control of my Sony Bravia TV and Sony HTG700 soundbar and Amazon Firestick where the system would insist on reverting back to the TV’s internal speakers regardless of the settings on any of the devices, this adapter totally resolved the issue. I simply plugged it into the 4K HDMI jack on the TV and plugged my Firestick (or other device such as Apple TV module or a gaming system) into it and, Voila! It transparently works as it should, directing the sound format through the Sound Bar without hesitation, glitch or warning on the screen. And it allows me to use all the advanced audio features of the sound bar and TV.

Absolutely should be cheaper, but it did solve my problem of my HTPC interfering with the CEC control between my TV and Receiver. It worked just fine with the HTPC disconnected, and failed to discover each other once the HTPC was connected. Once I plugged in the HTPC through this adapter, everything worked perfectly.

I have a system with 3 sources (Tivo, Roku, DVD player) switched by an Onkyo AV receiver, which in turn sends its output to a 70” Samsung TV. for months I’ve tried to turn on the tv and have it activate the receiver, and it seemed itched to whatever input I was last using. When I turned off the tv, it turned off the receiver, which then turned back on again. After reading dozens of forums, how-to’s and articles, all I learned was that Samsung’s implementation of CEC is somewhat flaky, that Onkyo uniquely uses different signals for on and off, and that both sometimes lose their minds (receiver would turn off with the tv, the turn itself back on 30 seconds later; turning off the DVD player made the tv switch to the empty “tv” input, which I could only change by re-learning Samsung’s world-class-awful remote). But in time I learned a critical lesson: input sources that NEVER TURN OFF can fool CEC circuits (mine anyway) into thinking a whole new input source has just been activated, and they try to switch to that source, with the results noted above. Both Tivo and Roku units never turn off, and neither has a power switch. They only turn off if you unplug their power supplies, or smash them with a brick. So they have a constant “live” signal, if it’s only a screensaver, and don’t respond to CEC commands. This little doodad was the fix. After placing one in each HDMI line from the always-on devices to the receiver, the tv and receiver started playing footsie only with each other, turning on and off in near-lockstep while the Tivo and Roku play on!

My MiSTer completey broke the CEC on my TV when plugged in. Channels renamed themselves, my sound bar literally wouldn't work at all.. it was bedlam until I figured out the MiSTer was the cause. Sure I could unplug the thing every single time I was done using it or if I wanted the change the channel, but why? This plug solved literally all my problems and now I don't have to constantly be putting stress on HDMI ports. Maybe a little pricey, but I literally couldn't find anything else that advertised itself as an HDMI CEC stripper (no clue why this is so rare), so it was this or nothing. I guess regardless of the price it worked exactly as described. I'd absolutely buy another if I needed to.

I got this adaptor because I have an LG C7 with a new Samsung HWN950 Atmos sound bar. The only way for the two of them to be hooked up is through ARC. Unfortunately with the LG if you turn off CEC it turns off the ARC connection. I got this because I have a Harmony remote and I was hoping that the adaptor would turn off the CEC while still leaving the ARC connection intact. It did not. As soon as I put it in line on either side the Samsung's ARC connection breaks. I really wish this would work. It would solve a lot of problems. If there is a fix I would love to hear it. I don't want to give it a bad review but it just doesn't work for my situation.

I was having a heck of a time after adding a PS Audio P12 power regenerator into my system. I guess just the simple unplugging of all my electronics and then plugging them back in really borked my LG's ARC audio. So anything connected to the LG and it's internal apps would have no sound out. The internal speakers were the only way I could get sound. But I have a pretty expensive theater setup so this was unacceptable. After calls to LG, a repair person visiting and just lots of system resets and frustration, I finally read a tip somewhere online about these CEC blockers. So I bought a pair of them. One for my Roku Ultra streamer and another for either my Xbox One X or Oppo Bluray player if needed. I installed one thus far directly onto the output of the Roku and then the HDMI from it to my Anthem processor. Now the TV recognizes my Anthem preamp as Anthem instead of 'Roku'. So muzzling the CEC out from the Roku is exactly what I needed. And yes, it passes DD+ and Atmos/Vision just fine. No issues with up to HDMI 2.0 spec. I might toy around and put one on my Xbox One X and see if it messes with VRR but heck, it's working perfectly so I don't want to mess with anything right now. Hopefully this review doesn't get too buried for those looking for fixing the issue with ARC not working.

Did not work for me to block the CEC from automatically turning on my AVR 5-10 minutes after it was shut off. Thankfully the maker and Amazon offered a no nonsense free return and refund.