Shower Base Refinishing Kit – Made in USA, Odorless Epoxy Coating for Small Shower Base (2x2, 3x3) – Easy Pour-On Application, Durable Mirror Finish – 1.5 kg

I have done a variety of home improvements over many years, and I have to say that this one turned out among the finest. It looks exactly as if a new, manufactured shower basin was installed, at a fraction of the price. It feels very nice on the feet, too. A couple of tips/suggestions: 1. Do the thorough cleaning the day before. It will reduce the effort on the day of the makeover, and enable you to concentrate more on the makeover as opposed to the fairly intense cleaning that must be done prior to using this product. And get a pumice stone to help with the cleaning- I bought one for the first time and was blown away at how effective they are at cleaning stains that even strong chemicals don't remove. After using the pumice stone, I used Ajax with bleach to polish up the cleaning process. 2. Watch the video on the manufacturer's website (be sure to watch the one for shower basins, they have several videos on there for bath tubs too) - once prior to cleaning, then at least once the day of the makeover. It is pretty straightforward to use this product and if it is done 100% correctly, you are likely to be 100% satisfied with the result. Be sure to continuously remove the excess enamel liquid that gathers at the taped-up drain- every 5-10 minutes as the video instructs, and be prepared to do this for approximately 2 hours or so or until the enamel liquid finally sets without flowing. This will help ensure a very nice self-leveling effect.

If you're willing to put in the time to prep you'll get an incredible result. It's expensive to replace the basin and this allowed me to get a "brand new" shower for $100 and 4 hours of my time. The trade off was worth it to me. There were cracks in the basin and someone tried to patch this shower with rubberized spray paint. I took the time to scrape everything off with sandpaper before following the prep directions. I watched the video and read the instructions that come with the kit. Note that you should set a timer for some steps so you can understand how much time you have to work. After 2-3 hours everything will start to harden and you will not be able to make any changes. So time is of the essence. Pro tip: have rubbing alcohol ready, qtips and a plastic spoon. When mixing both parts together set a timer for 7 minutes and use a paint stick to stir. Scrape along the side of the bucket and the bottom. When reviews say this didn't dry that means both parts were not mixed evenly. It is a labor intensive process but you don't need to be excessive. Put in effort stirring until it has an even consistency. After it is mixed for 7 min, set a timer for 2 hours. this is how you will know if you're making good time. Make sure everything is prepped and with all required materials on hand before you start this process. I used a plastic spoon to scrape out the material that would pool by the drain into a plastic cup. This was a game changer. Once I was done I used rubbing alcohol on a paper towel to clean the spots where the material was not supposed to be. If any had gotten in hard to reach areas I used a q tip soaked in rubbing alcohol for more targeted spots. Be sure to wear gloves, but if you get any material on you use rubbing alcohol to get it off. Once you're done and everything is starting to set be sure to use the heat gun to smooth out any bubbles. Hit the bucket before you pour and the basin after. You can see the bubbles pop. Shine a flashlight if you can, you'll be able to see this process more clearly. Move quickly and don't focus on one area too long. The heat gun can melt the material. Use the plastic cup (where you place the excess) to reference how the surface is hardening. I would poke the top of the cup with a wood stick to see how much time I have to keep working. It seemed to really harden at 3 to 3.5 hrs. If its at that point and you use the heat gun it will melt and you will need to wait for it to harden. If you want to fix it you will need to sand down that section and try again. If you have a section that did not harden properly: I reached out to support and they informed me best practice is to scrape this putty out. Then sand every section with 80 grit sandpaper, this will allow you apply a new coat. You have to wait for the previous version to harden before you can apply another coat. This will be 24-36 hours later. You can see where I scraped sections that didn't harden from another basin I did (images 5-6) and the new coat filled everything in evenly. It came out great.

Overall it definitely improved the appearance of the tub. The problem I had was application on a large oval corner tub with limited arm reach, As I did not want white, I emailed customer service several times regarding types of paint I could use to change the color however I never got a reply. In the end, since I wanted gray I added black enamel until I got the desired shade. Be aware that this requires additional mixing or you can get black streaks and this should be done before adding the hardener.

I needed to refinish my shower pan because the old reglaze was chipping off. You could see that the shower pan used to be pink and it was glazed white. I researched many resurfacing products, but most of them had a bad smell and you needed adequate ventilation. My bathroom has no window and it’s in the back of a bedroom so I did not have adequate ventilation. When I saw this product and saw that it was odorless, I thought that would be perfect, but I also thought is was too good to be true. I followed the demo video and YouTube videos. Reglazing was relatively simple. I recommend to follow the instructions regarding cleaning and sanding, but I did not fully remove the old glaze because that would’ve been way too time-consuming but everything turned out fine. I have only been using the shower for about a month, but there are no chips and everything looks great. I would highly recommend instead of repainting your shower pan .

Okay so I was nervous about trying this product. But I read all the reviews I could find and watched numerous videos (a must to watch the videos!) and decided to go for it. My experience and advice: 1) PREP, PREP, PREP. Spend the time to get your surface stripped, deglossed and clean. I used citrus stripper (old highback sink had been previously recoated with the spray on stuff - not durable) , 80 grit sandpaper, toilet bowl cleaner and alcohol for final wipe. 2) Tape and mask off everything well 3) Make sure your temp in the area is in the recommended rang (68-75) for 24 hours before you start. Vacuum and clean up all dust well. 4) Follow directions for mixing and go for it! 5) For me the comb thing didn’t help a lot, I used the solid plastic scraper more. 6) A long needle on hand is nice in case a hair or debris falls, it works well to remove it. Also, wear a tight fitting shirt so you don’t have fabric flapping around. 7) The heat gun is a life saver. It will definitely be your friend if you accidentally touch an area or have a flaw or bubbles. If you have to remove debris with needle the heat gun will smooth it right back out. Keep the gun moving and not too close. 8) Remove the drain cover thing if you can, and just let the excess flow on out into a bucket or container. That was the hardest part for me because I could not remove mine and it Took A LOT of scooping to get the excess out. 9) Don’t freak out in the beginning. This stuff is thick and I started kinda freaking and thought it wasn’t going to flow and cover well. Just take a deep breath, keep working it and move it where you need it and it all starts flowing and covering just like it should. It actually looks better after it dries. I was able to let mine cure for a week before use and it feels like porcelain. My sink literally looks brand new!

I re-painted my shower floor that has a prior acrylic painted surface that has started to peel and come up. I was concerned because some of the old acrylic paint would not come up no matter how much I sanded, but the new product just covered everything up with a nice and even finish. I was nervous about making sure I followed the directions. Given this was my first time to attempt this type of project the finish looks really great. I could have done a better job on some of the vertical surface as I left a few spots where I see now that I did not pour enough to fully hide the old surface but it is not that noticeable. Also, I can't blame that on the product as it was just me learning a new DIY skill. The product was overall a lot easier to use than I expected.

This is an excellent product that I used on my shower floor. Be sure to follow instructions and use this tip. Do not pour too much material on the shower floor, and don't get any material within 6 inches of the taped over drain while using the spreader tool the first time. You have plenty of time (2 hours) to add more paint and spread the material as needed, just don't be in a hurry. You will be surprised at how much the paint flows toward the drain as it self levels. If you spread the paint near the drain to start with, or if you started with too much paint, you will be removing excess paint from over the drain several times over the next couple of hours and that's not fun. Once the paint has dried, the finish is glossy and smooth and surprisingly offers a good grip. Still, be careful anytime you are stepping on a mixture of soap and water.

Something you must know about this product. If you choose to use it, you absolutely need to wipe your shower down after each use. If you let water dry on the surface, over the period of about a year it will stain this product and it cannot be removed. The water stain actually absorbs into the epoxy paint, and cannot be removed from the surface. It penetrates the paint and becomes part of the paint below the surface. There is no shower cleaner or paint cleaner or otherwise that can remove the stain once it has penetrated below the surface. It will be there permanently.