KW3A Microwave Oven Door Switch 16A 125/250V Door Interloc (2 Normally Open and 1 Normally Closes)

I have an old GE Spacemaker XL built in 1997. The fan started coming on when I opened the door. Then the microwave stopped working all together. The light would still come on and the keypad still worked, but no heating. It’s still in great shape and I didn’t want to replace it yet. After googling around I guessed it’s likely the door switch/es. I ordered this item before opening up my unit, in the interest of time, because the title lists two part numbers. The exact two I need for my microwave. The only problem is, I was shipped two of the same exact part. So at first I thought maybe they are interchangeable (they are not.) The pin layout is slightly different, and apparently one is normally open, and the other is normally closed. So I write this as a warning to anyone needing to make this repair. If you have an older GE Spacemaker, they need 3 switches: two are part number WB24X829 (narrow pin spacing) and one WB24X830 (wide pin spacing.) It took very little time to install these by the way. There are videos online showing how to do it. In total, it was 5 screws. Lastly, having bought more than one set of switches for this job, I appreciate the packaging this seller uses. It was size appropriate and well protected. Inside there is even a small diagram with helpgul info on the operation of the switches.

Bought this because my GE over the range microwave completely stopped when it comes to cooking the food. All the lights and alarms and fans worked on it, but it was actually the door switches that were faulty. In my GE, it took three switches and these worked brilliantly. Actually very easy to change out. Took me probably 20 minutes to take apart the microwave front and side panel and plug in the three new switches. Put it back together plugged it in and it worked perfectly. Highly recommend this product! It's compatible with most GE over the range microwaves.

Perfect kit, odd that my microwave had the color code of normally open and closed reverse of this but just have to double check with a meter. Saved so much $, hope they last!

I bought this set for a Samsung SMH1816S microwave oven. It has the exact set of 3 switches I needed - 2 normally open and 1 normally closed. I've previously replaced similar switches on the same oven with a different seller/brand and it was fine. This time, I came across a problem I had not seen before; nor have I seen this problem on other similar switches used in other situations. The problem is that the male contact lugs for these switches are thicker than the corresponding female lugs in the Samsung wire harness. For one switch, it took a little extra force to push the wire harness onto the lug. But for the others, it didn't work and I wasn't willing to force the harness any harder for fear of damaging/breaking the plastic parts holding the switch in place. Comparing the new and old switches, the difference in thickness is visible to the naked eye. Judging by other reviews, this problem isn't universal but it sure is a problem on my Samsung unit. Since only 1 of the 2 N.O. switches was broken, I was able to move a good one switch to replace the bad one and install a new one in the spot that took a little more persuasion. So overall, good value and well made, but not good on the installation. Buyer beware.

I replaced the three door switches in a Kenmore Microwave oven (Model NO. 721.69122010). It was the normally open bottom switch that went bad. It operates off the door latch and takes a beating when the door closes. Make sure you unplug the microwave first and then after removing the case cover discharge the big capacitor for the magnetron. Use a long screwdriver with an insulated handle. Short across the capacitor leads and to the case to make sure the capacitor has no charge before sticking your hands in the area of the door switches. The capacitor is in the same area and if its bleeder resistor is burned out or broken the capacitor won't bleed down. It will bite badly if you touch it and it still has a charge. Take a picture of each of the three door switches before removing so you can put the wires back on the terminals correctly. Replace one switch at a time. Be careful with the plastic retaining clips. They won't flex much and will break easily. There is a trick to removing and reinstalling each switch. There is a little plastic post that extends in the hole in one corner of each switch. Carefully lift the front retaining clip on the switch just enough to slide it out slightly swing it down and out and pull it off the post. It's important to not break the post. The removing and installation of each of the three switches is not identical but similar. It's tricky and delicate but can be done without breaking any clips or posts. Install them in reverse order. Do the switches one at a time. It took me about 45 minutes.

One switch did not fit my microwave, the upper switch, but I really only needed the middle switch, but the price was better for all 3 then others for 1 switch.

Perfect for Frigidaire microwave direct replacement. Installation was simple. Excellent value.

I supplied the part number and a model number for my microwave. Two of the switches were a perfect match, the third one was not a match. Luckily replacing two did the trick for me.

These door switches worked perfectly for a Panasonic microwave that I have. The specific model is NN-SG626S. The 2 black tab switches show in this Amazon product can be either the primary or secondary interlock switches. While the red tab switch is the monitor switch. In my case, my microwave goes primary interlock switch, monitor switch, and than secondary interlock switch. So it's, black, red, black. When the microwave door is closed. All the switch tabs close at once. That's how it functions. My microwave without its outer casing even shows how the switches should be aligned in a diagram sticker some where along the top of its internal parts. I believe the Panasonic 626 series of microwaves use many similar parts such as these switches. Accessing, the primary interlock switch and the monitor switch was easy. However, to access the secondary interlock switch. I had to open the microwave door and remove the electronic display panel. Than carefully remove the secondary interlock switch. Make sure you take a picture of which wires go into the according switches for reassembly reference before you even start the disassembly. Upon opening, I discovered that the primary interlock was indeed burnt out. So even if I replaced a fuse. As soon as the door was shut. It'd blow the fuse. Since I replaced the switches and the fuse everything works flawlessly now! Thank you again!

Quedo muy bien en mi horno, piezas universales con las que no tienes problema para reemplazar las dañadas

Purchased based on reviews and worked perfectly. Installed four months ago and no issues.

Good quality product. Build is solid. The installation part was a bit tricky. The marking on the switches are reversed than what I had on my microwave. I had it figured it out the hard way. Overall good product that worked with my Hamilton Beach microwave.

Well, if you’re reading this review, you’re probably having problems with your microwave. In my case, every time I opened the door to my Danby microwave, it would blow the circuit breaker. These 3 switches are all connected to the door mechanism. After replacing them with these, no more problems. For a $15 investment, I saved the cost of a brand new microwave. Needless to say, I’m very happy with them. They work great and get a thumbs up.