Lisle 64970 Parasitic Drain Tester

Great tool to have for the tool box

A commercially made harness made by Lisle that is so simple but takes the place of the home made 10 watt resister with alligator clips soldered on each end then having to put alligator clips on your test leads then hook it up with one on one side of the resister and the other on the other side, with so many connections made it would fairly easy to miss a current draw of 50 Ma, never mind what the heck is causing it. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, connecting this tester in series to the regular battery cable.This tester is fused, it has an on/off switch, and it has two pass through banana plugs that connect directly into the fused current inputs on your multimeter. This is a necessity for newer cars to detect draws that are so slight that the test light trick will not work here. All of the connections are extremely dependable and the fear of missing the problem due to a bad connection is minimized. Lisle 64970 Parasitic Drain Tester This is one diagnostic tool that I didn't have to think about, as soon as i realized what it was I put it right in my shopping cart.

This tool is an excellent piece to help locate a parasitic drain.

I have not tested this on a 12v battery for I am not sure the directions are correct. I did run power from a 9 volt battery and tested it with my multimeter while using specified directions which means turning the switch 📴 for using your meter. I could not measure any voltage, but turn the switch on and the 9volts is measured. It would seem more accurate to turn the switch off when you place your leads in the lead holders then turn the switch on for the current to flow and then read the current draw of course allowing time for any awakened power to sleep leaving only the culprit parisitic draw to show his hand. I welcome your comments which I am sure would be helpful. My theory is disconnect neg terminal and connect the drain tester to battery neg terminal and battery neg lead cable with the drain tester off then plug in your leads from your multimeter turn on your drain tester wait a few minutes turn on your multimeter then read the meter results for a few minutes. If there is a parisitic draw one would have to remove the meters leads and test each fuse to trace the draw to it's source. The reason I have not used this is I replaced my battery which was defective. I am keeping my lisle tester for I believe it a great product. I hope this helps someone.

A must for troubleshooting electrical faults in anything that has an automotive, truck, power equipment with DC battery

Highly recommend this battery adaptor cord for trying to find those pesky parasitic drain problems. Has a mini fuse on both positive & negative cords.

This tester does exactly what it’s supposed to do. The switch is not wired wrong. When the switch is flipped on the power goes threw just the clamp wires and not the DMM tester. Which is a must have for me because my BMW takes a while to go into sleep mode. Before sleep mode my car draw enough amps to blow my DMM tester fuse. Once my car is into sleep mode I can flip the switch into the off position which lets the current flow there my DMM tester to read the A or mA. As long as I switch it back to the On position I can even remove my DMM tester to check fuses without waking the car up. In my case I have more than one DMM tester and did not need to do so. I did have to replace the 10 amp fuse on the clamp side of the tester to a 15amp. I know the directions say to not use a fuse larger than 10 amps but I had to because my car kept blowing the 10amp mini fuse on the clamp side. Other than that my testing went as planned and I found my parasitic draw.

This is a total piece of junk. It is both poorly designed and cheaply constructed. First of all, it has a 10 amp fuse installed directly in the main circuit (not the meter protection circuit, which has a separate 7.5A fuse). When I connected it to my car battery system, the 10A fuse immediately blew due to the routine power surge associated with reenergizing a disconnected system. So, this gadget was now useless, unless one replaces that 10A fuse - which simply blows again when you hook it up again. Stupid design. I cut the 10A fuse out and wired that part of the circuit directly. Secondly, the flimsy on-off switch was defective. It was “on” no matter whether the toggle was on 0 or 1. Therefore, the device was (again) unusable as a way to switch between connecting the battery directly or through the ammeter. I had to remove that defective switch and replace it with a switch I had in my junk box. After that, everything worked just fine. If you elect to buy this, I hope you have a better experience than I had.

Outil très bien pensé

Item was faulty. blows the fuse on my meter straight away simple resistance check, found both leads shorted together pulled apart the switch found wire melted had through next to solder joint. cut wire and re soldered. haven't tested it yet

Cumple muy bien su función, te hace más fácil el trabajo .

يادي الغرض

Muy funcional y práctico para medir consumo de corriente parásita!