Cable Matters [UL Listed] 10Gbps in-Wall (CM) Rated 23AWG Bare Copper Cat 6 Cable - 1000ft, Solid, UTP Cat6 Bulk Ethernet Cable, Cat6 Ethernet Cord, White

This is good quality CAT6 cable. I used it to make all the connections for in home network while I was rewiring my house. Pair this with some keystones and faceplates and you can make some very clean media plates in every room. I was careful to make sure I purchased "in wall rated, solid" as the other options serve different or commercial purposes.Since the wire itself is very good, there isn't much to say on the subject. I can offer a few tips for those rewiring their house and using this cable in the walls and attic. Remember that the main thing which defines this cable as CAT6 rated over CAT5 is the center insulation piece that prevents EMI in the twisted pairs running parallel inside the cable. You paid a lot of extra money for CAT6 over 5, so don't cancel that built in protection by introducing external sources of EMI:~ Avoid as much as possible running this wire near any electrical romex or sockets. Definitely do not pull your CAT6 runs in parallel with any power lines.~ Eventually you might need to run near an electrical line or two, so make sure to do it perpendicular, like a cross. Be sure to staple the lines in place using soft plastic or insulated clips MADE FOR CAT6. Do not use the standard metal staples for romex. Something like this can be found easily at your local BigBox store: http://amzn.com/B007TMYTK4~ Try not to leave extra lengths of cable that you would need to coil up. Measure twice and cut what you need to the right length because coiling can also introduce EMI.~ Try and install your CAT6 boxes in a different bay of the wall from any electrical outlets that way you gain a little EMI protection using the studs and fire breaks as a barrier.~ Be very careful when stripping the outside plastic sheathing. You want to BARELY score it, DO NOT SLICE ALL THE WAY THROUGH. You want to use a test scrap of THIS cable and adjust your striping tool so that it very lightly scores the sheath, then you can pull on the outside until it snaps cleanly away at the score line. You should see white stretched material all the way around the cut. If you want to be extra careful, score and pull the sheath, then use the inside string to pull back another 2 inches of sheath and trim. Cut away all the wire where you scored the first time so there is NO CHANCE you might have accidentally sliced the twisted pair insulation.There are many Youtube videos that help explain how to layout, pull, strip, and connect CAT6 so spend an hour planning and learning. Your results will benefit greatly.Here are the supplies I used to built my media infrastructure:Keystone plates =  Shaxon BM303WP4-B, 4 Port Single Gang White Keystone Wall Plate  and  Shaxon BM303WP6-B, 6 Port Single Gang White Keystone Wall Plate Blank Keystone =  Shaxon BM303WIN-10-B, Keystone Blank Insert - White, 10 Pack Keystone Mounting Bracket =  Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black, 10-Pack Cat6 Keystone =  Cable Matters® 25-Pack Cat6 RJ45 Keystone Jack in White and Keystone Punch-Down Stand HDMI Keystone =  HDMI Keystone Coupler, Snap-in for Wallplate, White Coax Keystone =  Leviton 40831-BW QuickPort F-Type Adapter, Gold-Plated, White Cat6 Cable =  Cable Matters® In-Wall Rated (CM) Cat6 Ethernet Cable in Blue 1000 Feet Coax Cable =  Southwire 56918445 500-Feet Quad Shields Type RG 6/U 18 AWG Coaxial Cable, Black Coax Right Angle Adapters =  Cable Matters® 10-Pack, Gold Plated Right Angle F-Type Coaxial RG6 Adapter Wall Mounted patch panel =  Tripp Lite N250-012 12-Port Cat6 Wall-Mount Vertical 110 Patch Panel Cat6 Crimp connectors (apparently for stranded ONLY) =  C&E Cat6, Cat5e crimp connectors, 50 Pcs Per Bags Strain Relief Boots =  CableWholesale RJ45 Blue Strain Relief Boots, 50 Pieces per Bag (SR-8P8C-BL) Crimp Tool =  TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68 Punch Down Tool =  Cable Matters® Punch-Down Impact Tool with 110 Blade Coax Crimp Tools =  Valley Enterprises Coax Compression Connector Kit 30 pcs PPC-EX6XL RG6/RG6 Quad F Connectors with Tool & Stripper UPDATE 1/17/2016:One of the things I forgot to mention in this review is that if you are going to pull cat6 lines throughout your house, it would be prudent to bring two lines to each location. Frankly, it would be unwise NOT to do so...1) You can't have too much connectivity to your home network, especially in a world where even toasters and refrigerators are "smart" devices.2) My home didn't have telephone lines run in the walls. Instead, I had a telecom hatchet job along the baseboards and forced under the edge of the carpet. Being a fickle millennial, I don't have any need for a land telephone line, so I removed all those unsightly RJ11 lines stapled to the baseboards and ran two CAT6 lines in the walls to each location instead. There is no difference between RJ11 and RJ45 (that's the ethernet connector for the too lazy to google audience) in terms of the cable, outside of the fact that cat6 carries 8 wires while typical telephone lines carry only 4 wires. In terms of telephone performance, a copper wire is a copper wire, so you can consider each cat6 line to be the equivalent of two telephone lines. Savvy? If you ever find yourself in need of a telephone line, you can simply down convert one of your CAT6 lines by wiring up just four connectors to an RJ11 terminal and BOOM, you're back in the late 1980's! Actually this can be quite handy in a situation like needing to install land line for a security system.I am pleased as punch so many people have found my review helpful. Several people have personally emailed me questions, so I thought it would be helpful to put a couple good links in my review explaining how to terminate CAT6 wires:[...][...]TekSyndicate is fantastic, if not beyond nerdy. Then again, at this point you have read over a 1000 words on how to wire up your home network yourself...so who are we kidding, you're a nerd! Embrace it! Good luck and keep the questions coming!UPDATE 3/22/2016:It has come to my attention that I used CAT6 connectors which were intended for stranded wire, not solid. It wasn't until now that I even realized this since someone sent me an email about it. So far my network lines work just fine, but I guess technically they are only CAT5E because of this mistake? Basically at some point I will go back and replace the few connectors I crimped with the proper ones for CAT6 solid wire. They should look like this:  Cable Matters 2 Pack, Cat6 Modular Plugs with Load Bars for Solid Cables 100 Pieces per Pack . That is not a product endorsement since I have not used these personally yet, I just wanted to include a link for reference so you can see the difference.UPDATE 6/26/2019:This wire is still going strong. Its so nice to have everything possible hardwired in my home. I recently added a POE camera system to the house using Amcrest POE cams, a POE gigabit switch, and this wire--perfection. Zero problems after nearly 5 years of service.

I recently completed a wired home network project. This was the first time I have ever run networking cable and I found this cabling to be very easy to work with.Before I go into the review of the cabling, I'll discuss the various components used for the network:Router: D-Link DIR-655 Extreme-N Gigabit Wireless Router  (Note: This router was pre-existing; not purchased for this project.)Switch:  TRENDnet 8-Port Unmanaged Gigabit GREENnet Standard Switch (8 x 10/100/1000Mbps) Cabling:  Cable Matters 1000ft Bulk Cat6 Cable UTP Solid In-Wall Rated (CM) 550MHz 23AWG in Yellow ; 2 Ft (2ft) Cat6 Ethernet Network Patch Cable Blue RJ45 m/m (10 PACK) Wallplates:  Leviton 41080-4WP QuickPort Wallplate, Single Gang, 4-Port, White ; Leviton 43080-S12 QuickPort Wallplate, Dual Gang, 12-Port, Stainless Steel Keystone Jacks: Leviton 6G108 (could not find on Amazon)Miscellaneous: Cable Clips -  Your Cable Store 100 Pack White Nail In Ethernet Cable Clips 6mm ; Blank inserts -  Leviton R04-41084-W Blank Inserts ; Punchdown tool -  DataShark 70034 110 Non-Impact Punchdown Tool ; Low-voltage old-work brackets; Corded drill and 1" spade bit; Steel fish tape; Miscellaneous other toolsThe home network consists of a central wiring point where the router, switch, 12-port wallplate, and 2 foot cables are located and 5 destination rooms receiving two runs of cabling each. The cabling is all run within pre-existing walls or within my attic crawlspace. The 12-port wallplate holds 10 Cat6 keystone jacks and each destination has a wallplate with 2 Cat6 keystone jacks in it.I chose to use this cabling for several reasons:1) I utilized Cat6 cabling instead of less expensive Cat5e in an attempt to future-proof this installation. If you're never run cabling through existing walls and attics before you should know that it is VERY hard work. The small increase in cost for Cat6 versus Cat5e will be repaid several times over if I don't have to do this work a second time.2) Solid cable should be used when installing within walls as it is of a higher quality and is easier to work with because it is stiffer. This is as compared to stranded cabling, which is what is typically used in patch cables and will run from a computer to the wall jack. Solid cable is easier to push through walls due to its stiffness while stranded cabling is easier to work with outside of an installation environment.3) I selected the yellow color cable due to where I was installing it - in the attic. My attic already contained white electrical cabling so I wanted a color that would stand out differently from that cabling. I felt that the yellow would be easier to see in dimly lit areas than some of the other colors and would still stand out from the existing white cabling. This turned out to be true.I found working with this cabling to be very easy. It pulls from the box with little effort and slides well through walls and holes drilled in framing top plates. It even ran well in an exterior wall where it had to slide between the insulation and the drywall. The cable has the number of feet remaining printed directly on it, so you are able to easily tell how much you've run (helpful when blindly dropping it down a wall) or if you're in danger of running out of wire. Connecting the wire to the keystone jacks was relatively easy and the quality of the cable definitely assisted with that.After the installation was completed, I ran some performance tests to assess the results of the installation. The network was transmitting data at 890 megabits/second between the two farthest runs of cabling. This works out to about 111 megabytes/second and is close to the theoretical maximum for a gigabit network and is pretty much the same as other real-world tests show as a maximum speed.All in all, this was a difficult project due to the amount of work and the areas the wire was being run it, but the wire itself made things as easy as possible. I would highly recommend this product to anyone seeking to install a home network.

Just be aware the rating is only good for runs on the same floor. Cannot be used between habitable floors.

Outstanding durablity and quality. Conductors are solid, jacket is durable and cable showed no signs of damage after extensive man-handling. I recently did some cable runs through finished construction that required aggressive fishing, pulling through holes and an even had a table drop on one of them. I cut open the section that had sustained the drop imapct and the conductors were all still intact. Pay extra for this cable.

Good quality cat 6. No problems with it and at the time of buying was the best cable around for the price.

Vorweg gesagt - ich hab mir bei Kauf des Kabels keine großen Gedanken darüber gemacht. Ich hatte bereits ein Cat.6 Kabel zuhause und wollte wieder so eins.Das Kabel macht was es soll - Daten von einem Ende zum anderen transportieren. Über die möglichen Geschwindigkeiten kann ich nichts sagen - dazu hab ich nicht die richtigen Geräte dran hängen. Mir reichts.Ich war nur etwas überrascht dass im Kabel keine Schirmung verbaut ist wie bei dem anderen Cat.6 das ich schon zuhause hatte.