TCP Global Professional Gravity Feed HVLP Spray Gun with a 1.4mm Fluid Tip, 1 Liter Aluminum Cup and Air Regulator

Le doy 5 estrellas por su relación calidad precio, los materiales se ven de buena calidad y el acabado que deja es excelente, no veo por que gastar mas en otros productos a menos que te dediques 100% al negocio automotriz, muy conforme con la compara y resultados obtenidos.

Thirty years ago, when I put away my brushes and started spraying furniture projects, I bought a Devilbiss siphon feed gun. It’s a great gun for nitrocellulose lacquer, but I have never had a sophisticated enough booth to spray lacquer. For oil based polyurethane, siphon feed is not so great – lots of spitting and sputtering. I thought that was my fate until gravity feed HVLP guns came along. I am a big fan of the Harbor Freight purple gravity feed gun. I have two of them (for a total investment of $18.00 plus tax). I also have two of Harbor Freight’s professional guns. They are so inexpensive, I can have a separate gun for each type of material and avoid any chance of cross contamination. There is not much difference between the two Harbor Freight guns, though the professional guns spray a little smoother. Most of the gravity feed HVLP guns on the market seem to have been made from similar molds. I build furniture and spray mostly water borne clear topcoat finishes. However, from time to time, I do spray oil based finishes, stains and latex paint. For different materials, we need different size nozzle sets. Though the Harbor Freight guns are incredibly inexpensive, there is no way to obtain different size nozzle sets for them. Believe me, I have tried. All you can do is adjust the viscosity and the results of thinning material can be undesirable. As a result, the Harbor Freight guns totally lack versatility. That is what drove me to the search for an HVLP gravity feed gun for which different nozzle sets were available. I found two, both on Amazon. One is the ETE Etmate HVLP gravity feed gun and the other is the TCP Global Brand Professional HVLP Spray Gun. I prefer the TCP because it is a bit more sturdy and because the nozzle sets can be purchased separately. So far, I have purchased 2.0 mm and a 2.5 mm nozzle sets and I have only used it to spray latex. Of course, if a gun can spray latex well, it can probably do anything. The gun arrived while I was in the middle of spraying primer and 3 coats of latex on a project of five cabinets that I had started with the Harbor Freight purple gun with a 1.7 mm nozzle set. So I switched over to the TCP with a 2.5 mm nozzle set between coats. What a difference! With the paint properly thinned, it flowed on almost as well as oil based (but without the toxic fumes and difficult clean-up). I have read some reviews complaining about the grease on the gun upon arrival. Come on! You have to clean a spray gun out of the package. You should never risk your project with a new gun that has not been cleaned and tested. The instructions call for running lots of solvent through the gun to clean it. I don’t do that. I break the gun down, immerse it in solvent, and clean it with brushes. The key to cleaning the gun is removing the nozzle so you can really flush it out. All these guns come with a wrench that fits the nozzle, but you could break the gun or even your hand before that nozzle will come out. I read somewhere that a heat gun will dissolve the locktite put on the threads at the factory and the nozzle will come right out. It works! I have now removed the nozzles from all of my spray guns, thoroughly cleaned the locktite off the threads, and I have been able to clean them more thoroughly and with less effort than ever before. The one drawback I have observed on the TCP gun is the huge metal cup. TCP is probably marketing this gun to automotive painters who need more material and don’t often have to wrangle the gun into tight spaces. Once I experienced the arm fatigue of that big cup, I went to Home Depot and bought a smaller plastic cup for my TCP gun. You could also use the disposable cups Harbor Freight sells. All that said, I recommend this TCP gun with little reservation. I sure appreciate some of the detailed reviews some other Amazon customers have offered on other products. So, I hope this review has been helpful to some others. By the way, if anyone wants a really expensive vintage Devilbiss siphon feed, I have two of them hanging on the wall of my spray booth collecting dust.

I didn't have any prior experience with HVLP sprayers, but I am doing a cabinet refacing in our kitchen and had a lot of doors and drawers to paint. The price on this gun seemed pretty good, and reviews were decent, so I gave it a shot. So far it has worked out pretty well. I've painted around 40-50 doors with it and the gun has performed better than I have. I'm still learning how to get it dialed in correctly for the best finish, but that reflects more on my skills than on the gun itself. I do seem to be getting better at it. Cleaning it isn't too bad. I've had a high pressure sprayer in the past and I remember it being a pain in the neck. This one you can remove a few components with the supplied wrench, then it rinses out with water pretty easy. The only thing I have had trouble with is I can't remove the main brass fitting that the nozzle screws in to. It is TIGHT! I tried using the supplied hex wrench and I felt like I was going to break something before I could get it to crack loose. Fortunately, it doesn't seem to hinder cleaning to leave it in place, so I haven't worked too hard at removing it yet. I did pick up a couple different sized nozzles to go with it, because it seems like a lot of times when you buy a tool like this then come back later to get accessories, they no longer exist. Haven't used anything but the 1.8 yet. I have been spraying latex, thinned about 20%. The only complaints are: 1. The regulator got screwed up and a part ended up breaking. I don't know if I turned it too far or it jammed or what, but it suddenly stopped regulating and started leaking like crazy. I fiddled with it for a while and ended up breaking a plastic piece in the knob, then it REALLY got messed up. Fortunately, I have a 3D printer, and I was able to print a replacement part and get it working again. 2. The interior of the aluminum paint cup is the perfect surface for bonding to primer! The first time I poured in primer, it stuck to the walls of the cup and now appears permanently bonded. Maybe some steel wool or scotchbrite would take it off, I haven't tried. It doesn't seem to affect anything so not a big deal. It's just kind of annoying that it stains so easily. Not sure if a smoother finish would help. For you fellow noobies out there, be sure to get a line drier. Maybe a couple. I have two installed now because I was still getting water drips out the end with just one. I live in Colorado where it's fairly dry and have never had a moisture problem in my hose until I started spraying. Now it's crazy wet. First attempt was a mess with big drips landing on the MDF and raising the grain ruining the finish. It can't be too dry! I'm happy with my purchase. I'm almost done with the cabinets, and really my goal was just to have a gun that would get me through that project. The fact that it still seems to be going strong and will get more use in the future is a bonus. Dinging one star for the regulator that caused some grief, otherwise it would probably be a 5.

Better than the real cheap one on easier to deal with and clean. On my tube chan bob ease shop on a 1957 GMC 100

I bought this gun primarily for spraying latex paint, based on other reviews that I had read. For the record, I also have a Graco cordless sprayer that cost nearly $700, but I prefer this unit for most jobs. The Graco throws a TON of paint - great if you're painting big areas, but not great for smaller/precise/detail work. This gun is also much easier to clean out. I've used this gun mainly for spraying doors, though it would also work well for trim and furniture. If you're painting walls, a roller would probably be faster. I highly recommend using floetrol for reducing the paint and for helping it to flow out evenly. Most latex paints will need to be thinned for spraying with this sprayer. The amount of reduction will vary depending on the consistency of your paint. I just sprayed a gallon of Sherwin Williams Emerald, which comes out of the can about the consistency of pudding. I mixed roughly two parts paint with one part Floetrol and one part water. If I dip my stir stick in the paint, and then pull it out, I would get a stream of paint for about four seconds before the stream breaks up into individual drops. This seemed to be a consistency that sprayed well. YMMV (your mileage may vary). I set the gun regulator to about 60 psi. With my setup, it dropped to about 40 psi when actually spraying. The paint seems to splatter quite a bit when first sprayed, but the floetrol makes it flow out to a nice, even finish. I also added an inline moisture separator (NANPU brand, also found on Amazon for about $30). This probably isn't as critical with latex paint as it would be when spraying oil-based or lacquer paints, but it's still a good idea. You can see my photos - I'm totally happy with the results. This is so much easier than brushing paint on the doors. Keep in mind that if you're spraying any kind of oil-based, lacquer, or urethane paints that you'll want a gun with a smaller tip. This gun might also work for spraying super-thick automotive primers, but other than that I would only use it for thick latex paints. This gun does use a ton of air. A small pancake compressor just isn't going to keep up. I wasn't prepared the first time I used it; I had to run two compressors, and swap between them every 30 seconds or so. The next time I used a 3hp Harbor Freight compressor with a 21 gallon tank. I could almost spray 1 full side of a door before having to wait a minute for the compressor to catch up. Thankfully the paint flashes slowly (especially with the floetrol), so even if you have to stop for a minute halfway through a door it shouldn't cause any issues.