Xfactor® STICKY-iCKY 1000mPa*s ULTRA LOW VISCOSITY UV LOCA Glue Adhesive + LED Ultraviolet UV LIGHT BLACK LIGHT FLASHLIGHT for LCD Glass Digitizer Repair, Dog & Cat Pet Urine Stain Detector, Scorpion Hunting, Counterfeits - MONEY BACK GUARANTEE !!

This was my first time repairing a cracked screen. My device is a Galaxy S4. The Ultra Low Viscosity glue was easy to work with. I was able to use gravity to make it flow over the whole screen without applying pressure to the glass. That way there were no thin spots in the glue which could form air pockets later. I'm giving this 4 stars only because the flashlight is too small. It cured the glue slowly but worked. The glue itself was fantastic. Any excess glue also cleaned off easily before fully curing, especially with the help of eucalyptus oil.For those who are doing this for the first time, here are some DO's & DON'Ts, things that worked and things that didn't work for me. Of course, this is just my take on it and you have to be your own judge. I take no responsibility for anything you try on your phone. Things may go differently for you than for me, but hopefully this will save some grief and time. This is not a complete breakdown of steps.1) Removing cracked glass:Taking the phone apart took about 25 minutes including removing all circuit boards and ports, speakers, etc. (and of course the battery). It could be done in 10 minutes or less but the first time went slowly. a) Put CLEAR PLASTIC PACKING TAPE over the broken glass before beginning. This worked great. I've seen posts where people complain of glass pieces getting all over and having to pick them off the phone piece by piece. Mine was completely shattered but came off in one piece thanks to the tape holding it together. b) I used a heat gun and a IR temperature measuring device. Based on various websites, the ideal temperature is somewhere between 200 and 230 degrees F. The temperature was measured constantly while heating the glass. It was difficult to get the temperature above 200 without leaving the heat gun in one place too long and risking burning out spots on the LCD (above 230 degrees). However, working slowly the glass came off fairly easily even at around 190-200. I've heard of people cracking the digitizer by going too fast. Let the glue slowly detach. If you do not have an IR (infrared) temperature device, perhaps a hairdryer would work as it would not get hot enough to accidentally burn the LCD. However, hairdryers are supposedly rigged to cut off at 140 degrees for safety and they may not be hot enough to melt the glue. Not sure. Warning: some sites tell of people burning the LCD using a heat gun without measuring the temp, also your heat gun may heat faster or hotter than the one I used. c) A PLAYING CARD from a deck of cards worked fantastic for getting under the glass to unglue it. I used a razor blade to get the corner started then pushed the card in. It was really simple to alternate between heating the glass and slowly pushing the card further down. Cards will not scratch the digitizer, are thin enough to get under the glass and are strong enough to push. The size of the card keeps the glass from re-contacting the old glue while working. I tried molybdenum gold wire first but it was impossible to work with and kept getting caught on glass shards and cracks. The plastic spudger was too thick and a metal one (recommended on some sites) would scratch the digitizer I would think. d) MAKE SURE TO DETACH THE "BACK" AND "SETTINGS" BUTTONS AND RIBBON FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE GLASS before completely removing the glass. I used the razor blade to unglue them from the glass once I got to the bottom with the playing card. d) EUCALYPTUS OIL immediately dissolved any excess glue on the digitizer after removing the glass. I tried isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol first as several sites recommended it but it was USELESS. The alcohol took forever to do even a partial job after removing most of the glue with my fingers. The eucalyptus oil took only seconds. Various goo gone types of sticky stuff removers would probably work but I don't know. Maybe even squeezing some oil out of an orange peel may work. It's your phone and your decision. The isopropyl was only good to do a final cleaning and remove any residual oil.2) NOW TEST THE SCREEN. I thought for sure I must have broken or fried something by now, so it would be nice to test it before gluing on a new glass, but how do you do that when the phone is in pieces? It wasn't too hard to figure out the bare minimum of pieces to put back together to test the screen. Obviously there was no need to re-attach the speaker, the vibrator, the headphone jack or the casing. I just put the motherboard back in (without screwing it in) and re-attached only two cables: the one coming from the screen and the one coming from the circuit board attached to the "back" and "settings" buttons and ribbon. Once the battery was put in and the power button pressed the phone started right up and the screen was perfect! This takes only 5 minutes and could save you the frustration of turning on a newly glued and assembled phone only to find out the LCD is broken and you have to start over. Take it apart again before continuing with gluing.So now to glue on the glass.3) Laying new 2mm tape around the edges was simple but the glue ran over my tape anyway. I didn't quite follow the recommendations on some sites. You know how substitutions go on recipes. Maybe you will have better luck.4) Laying the new glass: a) My first attempt failed as I didn't make sure the glass fit flush first. Some objects and tape got in the way and kept too much space between the phone and the glass leaving lots of room for air bubbles. I had to remove it, clean off the glue and start again with more glue. b) The second attempt worked fine. I laid the glass on slowly starting from the top of the phone until all glue was in contact and then tilted it around letting the glue flow to all sides and corners. Once it reached the last corner I put it flat and immediately started curing it with the UV flashlight. I tried to let the glue go LAST to the corner where the "back" button is. This was so the glue would not seep onto the ribbon cable which goes through that corner. c) FYI, USE A MAGNIFYING GLASS to check glue for tiny bubbles BEFORE LAYING THE GLASS down. The bubbles look like specs of dust and are hard to see. Since I did not use a magnifying glass, I missed a bubble, but fortunately it is so small that it is very hard to notice it on the screen now. The corner of the razor blade popped any bubbles I did see before laying the glass. At first glance you will see no bubbles, but look more closely and you can find them to pop. Your OCD will thank you later. d) After curing the glue and reassembling the phone a final cleaning with eucalyptus oil removed all excess glue and smudges and gave the phone a nice shine.Now the screen seems even better than before it broke! (or is that just an illusion from two months of reading emails through packing tape and cracked glass?)Now off to get a phone case. Some people learn the hard way...

I repaired a Verizon Galaxy S3, and the glue seems to be working. I'm taking off one star because of the tube: ff the glue came in a black flexible squeeze-tube so I could feel how much was left, it would be 5 stars.Since the tube is rigid and opaque-black there's no way to know how much you have left. So, realistically, I would view this as a one-device repair - but it was plenty for my S3 (it's supposed to be 5ml, and I used 1.5 to 2ml on my initial test-cure and glueing the real screen).Some people said the flashlight is useless, but it worked - I accidentally had to verify it ... I didn't put on enough glue to flow smoothly into the corners, so I had to use pressure to get the glue into the corners, and it would "retreat" when I let go, leaving a void. So I set the flashlight right on the glass for a couple minutes in each corner while I kept pressure on .. that was enough curing to keep the glue in place. After that, I moved the flashlight around for maybe 15 minutes over the whole screen and it seemed usable and clean everywhere - but just in case the next day we put the phone in bright sunshine for an hour. No problems/leakage over the next couple days.My wife (the User) says the phone works well to the touch and visibility through the screen is "like new."

Adhesive worked when leaving the repair for few hours in bright sunlight where there is lots of ultraviolet light. The flashlight might work if it were connected to about 5 volts dc using a 2 inch cube power supply connected to 120 volts. I fixed eye glasses having a broken eyepiece. The flashlight burned through batteries and started to cure the adhesive but did not seem have enough power to really cure the adhesive. Probably just sending the adhesive would make for a less expensive product that works well./ donboll

This glue worked fine but if you're going to rely on the little lamp they provide I would go with a different seller. It is cheaply made and I doubt it would cure the glue all the way through. Mine came broken so I can't say for certain. But luckily I had a UV light in my house already and used that. So I will give it three stars since the glue did it's job for my Galaxy S5.

I used this to repair the cracked screen on my daughter's cell phone--watch a few amazon videos, have a safe place to keep all the screws, and make sure you buy a screen replacement kit that comes with the screwdrivers and tools you'll need, and you can save a LOT of money and it really is as good as new. Previously I had tried the screens that come with the sticker adhesive around the edges, but the screen sensitivity wasn't the same, the glue makes a huge difference. Just take your time getting the screen off so you don't damage the digitizer underneath.

I bought this for use on repairing small fishing fly's. Unfortunately with the plunger required to extrude the adhesive from the tube it is very hard to manage. The curing light seems to work quite well indoors but the sun is a much better source of UV for curing. I'll order another one but with a squeezable tube.

I haven't tried the glue yet , because I there were no directions for it's use. I tried the address on the product and there is no directions. For thisreason I only give it three stars. I like the UV light , it's satisfactory and I hope it works to set up the glue.

The UV flashlight is great, however the glue is not what I expected. Apparently it is made only for repair of cracked screens on smart phones. It doesn't completely harden and remains tacky on the surface and rubbery beneath. Seems that remaining tacky on the surface would allow dirt and dust to adhere to the screen and eventually get thick enough to interfere with the operation. I definitely wouldn't recommend this product for everyday gluing operations or for smartphones either.