Power Acoustik PC1.5F 1.5 Farad Digital Power Capacitor

Price is great(Amazon is lowest you'll find), especially since this is a name brand piece. I run 300W RMS to 10" sub, and 300W RMS to 4 door speakers. This cap has performed flawlessly (does not drain battery like other reviewer stated). Helps the bass hit harder, and reduces distortion associated with battery drain. Headlights don't dim at all when bass hits. My truck will dim it's lights when the A/C compressor kicks in, so I couldn't imagine the light show I'd have without the cap. Charging time is quick. That's the advantage of the digital display, because you know when you hit proper voltage charge. Comes with platic mounting brackets, so don't overtighten screws, or you'll be screwed.

First of all, I run a single Pioneer 12" subwoofer with a dual 300w amp running to it and the amp is actually screwed into the side of my sub box. This was much larger than I expected and I had at first thought I would put it right underneath on the same side, but unfortunately it was a little to big. I mounted it on the other side of the sub box and it fits nicely with just two more wires running across the back of the sub box. Also the ugly decal on it is on a high quality plastic wrap which can easily be cut off so you just have a shiny silver cylinder. It comes with some crappy plastic mounting brackets but I wasn't expecting much. They seemed to get tight enough for my liking and I plan to use them until they fail. Now for the actual capacitor.After physical installation, I went and grounded this sucker first off, then started to charge it using the provided resistor. The led numbers didn't come on for about two minutes and I was starting to worry I had gotten a defective product when they flashed on! I charged it up to about 9.6 volts, where it wouldn't go any higher with the resistor, and then I just connected the power cable which made it jump the last 2.4 volts, which shouldn't be a problem for the capacitor. I turned on my stereo and law down some heavy bass rap. My sub used to "wobble" or vibrate when it hit the really strong bass notes, I now know this was from a lack of power. Now it hits the notes perfectly and smoothly. If you're running a small amp to a sub, a capacitor should help your sound (I didn't have a strobing light issues) but if you have an amp providing plenty of power for you sub to hit it's peak power on those notes, you probably won't need one. This cap definitely upgraded the sound of my system and is now making me buy higher power speakers to keep the mids and highs equal to the bass! I've only had it a week, but it doesn't drain my battery and it helps the sound. If it malfunctions or blows on me I will update my review.Pros:CHEAPBetter sound (low power systems)Less alternator and battery strainEasy to installComes with brackets and resistorMay help with strobing lightsCons:Crappy plastic bracketsVery largeHonestly if you're running one or even two subs off of a single lower power amp, this is a great investment and you will hear it right from the start.

Recently put a sound system in my truck. I've never had a problem with the power acoustik amp I have, so I decided to go with this power acoustik capacitor. It's a good capacitor, and it even looks really cool. No complaints, it's working great, and very easy to install. I have a different brand cap as well and the resistor it came with didn't charge it, but the resistor that came with this amp worked perfectly which is a definite 👍. A resistor might not be the quickest way to charge a cap but it's definitely the safest and least scary

This worked out pretty well,but always remember to charge the cap with the resistor before connecting you power wire straight to the + side of the cap.

it works, it really does. This is a cap for a car, its a giant size capacitor, you see them on motherboards tv, radios etc. it functions as a amp main power source so it doesn't suck up battery power. If you dont have a cap, and your lights dim when bass hits then you need a cap. all you need to do to connect it is, charge it as it says on the insctructions. then connect the + positive to the cap, then look for ground on your car chassis something that doesn't have paint. look on one of your seats u can use that bolt to get ground for the chassis of the car. if it has paint u can remove it with sand paper or a metal brush.

This thing isn't going to win any awards, but it will do its job and it'll do it at a low price. As long as you remember to charge it with the resistor, then immediately hook it up to battery power, it won't let you down. In theory, a capacitor is supposed to hold its charge once you remove the power source; however, this one did not when I first charged it with the resistor. It made me worry that it would drain my battery while I left my truck off, and it was still wired directly to the battery. So far it has not, I am satisfied with this cheap alternative that had crummy wire terminals. I recommend it if you want a capacitor and want it cheap. (Also I was glad to see that the graphics were on plastic wrapped around the capacitor so I could just cut it off)