Scratch Remover & Polish Kit

The gauge cluster in my car was looking really scuffed up, but after using this kit + included towels, it got my cluster looking perfect. Plus, I've used this on several other things in vehicles and around the house and it works great on most plastics. Lastly. you don't use much of any polish while using it, so it'll last a long time.

I used it to polish a plexiglass sewing machine surround that I made from a used one we got at a recycle shop. Our machine is a different shape than the original so I cut it to fit, then rounded the edges and polished out all the scratches.It works surprisingly fast by starting with the rougher grit and then following up with the smoothest one. This worked on my saw cuts as well as surface scratches from the previous owner.I did the same thing for a display box I made for my Matchbox car collection.I bought this a year or so ago and it hasn't dried up or separated.

I have an old plexiglass case. It was dirty yellowed and scratched. This set removed the dirt, most of the yellowing and all but the deepest scratches

it works as described - good product. it does dry fast so you need to do the process quickly or you will end up needing to clean and start again.

I’ve used NOVUS PK1—Plastic Clean & Shine—for over 40 years, and it's still the benchmark. Crafted in the USA, this polish cleans, restores, and shines plastics like headlights, windshields, goggles, and instrument panels—without scratching. Non‑toxic, safe, and anti‑static. Trusted performance every time.

it polished acryllic tubs very well, however, it does not remove scratches. The tub does look much better, but do not think you can remove deep or light scratches with this.

Nice kit, reasonably priced. Novus is a like a best kept secret, and not many people know how well it works. IF USED PROPERLY. Pro Hint: It's not magic, you don't just "spray and wipe", you DO need to apply some elbow grease, but I've found nothing better for polishing hard plastics. Plastics like (but not limited to) acrylic, polystyrene, polycarbonate, etc. On these and other surfaces with sticker residue where you can't use any kind of solvent, this stuff is the answer. I've salvaged many sticky, scuffed up CD cases with just #2 alone. The trick is to use aggressive pressure and rapid motion like a buffer, to the point where you're actually generating heat from friction. Not so hard that you crack the CD case but don't baby it, either. If your polish rag is CLEAN you will not hurt the plastic. ALWAYS use a CLEAN soft cloth for this. Can't stress that enough. The smallest dirt particle on your cloth will apply new scratches often times worse than the ones you're trying to take out. If the scratches aren't terrible, sometimes starting with the #2 is enough. If the're kinda bad, start with the #3. Buff till the scratches are gone. Then use the #2 in the same way to polish the micro haze left by the #3. If done right, you may not even need the #1 but applying it does make things shine and adds a little protection.Note that if a surface has seen considerable abuse, some scratches may be too deep for polish alone. In cases like those, it is possible to use super fine sandpaper like 1000, 1500, on up to 2000 grit to get them out. Then proceed with the Novus after that. Okay, I may be getting carried away suggesting one put THAT much effort into saving a CD case. But the point is, the process is the same for any (potentially more valuable) hard plastic object like a figure, a table top, or maybe a motorcycle windshield.I've also had success cleaning the CDs themselves. If dusty, rinse under some warm soapy water first before attempting to polish. Some scratches are best left alone if they're not affecting play. But if they're fairly significant and you just can't stand looking at them any longer, start with the #2. Don't be near as aggressive as on the case, these surfaces are kinda tender and you can easily make things worse. Might want to practice a bit on a junk CD first. After the #2, finish with the #1. If a CD is just dirty, use only the #1 with light, light pressure. It'll take smoke film and fingerprints off nicely. And ONLY use a microfiber cloth on CDs.

It worked and got rid of scratches on Jeep Wrangler soft top windows. Did use a power buffer and went over the process a few times.