RioRand 7-70V PWM DC Motor Speed Controller 30A - Low Heat Aluminum Housing for Brushed DC Motors, DIY Projects & Small Electric Devices (Extra Fuse Included) Green

Works great. This is a great product.

I used this to reduce the voltage on a Power Wheels that now operates on a Dewalt 20V Max battery. The board appears to be relatively simple. I am not an experienced electrical technician, but the one feature I would have liked to see was some indication on the dial as to what voltage was being given. In lieu of this, I placed an LCD voltage monitor on the output side and can now monitor the voltage being sent to the motor, but it’s essentially useless as the meter will show high spikes of voltage and then drop, which I suspect is the result of the use of the lithium ion batteries. Nonetheless, when the dial is too low, the motor will not turn, and an adjustment of the dial will adjust in over-voltage, so this piece certainly does work.

Very convenient.

Solid little controller that does exactly what it’s supposed to do. I used the Riorand 7–70V PWM DC motor speed controller for a small project, and it handled speed adjustments smoothly with no noticeable lag or overheating. The knob feels responsive, and installation was pretty straightforward if you have basic wiring knowledge. That said, it’s not perfect. The build quality is decent but not amazing—the casing feels a bit light, and the terminals could be sturdier. Also, there’s no real instructions included, so beginners might need to look things up. Overall, a reliable and affordable option that gets the job done, just don’t expect premium build quality.

purchased this ca Feb 2025 but just got around to using this and as others have described, worked GREAT for about 5 mins and then ONLY FULL POWER (no power control). I have a similar looking PWM from another vendor (DC Motor Speed Controller PWM Controller, Enmja 7-70V 30A Adjustable PWM Motor Speed Regulator 12V 24V 36V 48V) and this has been used extensively for about 1 year and it's fine. again, these 2 units LOOK ALIKE but clearly they aren't the same. also, I did some voltage measurements on the 2 units initially and the defective unit (before being used) required advancing the rheostat near 2/3 of its entire travel before it registered anything. that was until the controller failed resulting in 100% output and NO speed control at all. I'm going to order another of the previous model (still offered by Amazon as of 6/2025) since my experience with that has been positive. but I'll avoid this one that is defective. I'll also tear it apart to see if there is anything fixable (and cheaply) and if I come up with a solution, I'll post an update. one note: as others stated, when it works, it's great. it just doesn't work for very long.

Works well to control each of 12" Fans in my side by side, been in use for 6 months no issues

Quick delivery and well packaged, as usual. I used this to power my $30 Horizon T900 treadmill with adjustable speed. It's motor control module was broke, so until I get it fixed, I substituted this little gem. The motor in these is a brushed DC 20Amp and up to 90Vdc (2.5 HP). I feed it with 36Vdc at up to 10Amps since I only use it to walk indoors. This module has no trouble driving the motor to speeds higher than I need. At this load rate the speed control only gets a little warm to the touch. It does have an onboard switch that could be remote connected to the magnetic safety switch fob...maybe later. It also has a connectorized speed potentiometer that could be extended/wired remotely for console mount. Nothing to complain about here other than wish it was not made in the far East.

FYI to others that aren't looking to control their power wheels, this model only pulses the negative ground line. The positive hot terminal for the motor passes through from the input. So, if you're interested in using this on a system that grounds the negative through the chassis, like a lot of automotive applications, it will not work. You don't need the positive wiring to come from this PWM so long as it's from the same source that powers the PWM, but you definitely need a dedicated ground/negative wire from whatever you're trying to control.

Used this controller on 12v radiator fans, and works like a charm. Easy wire up as well

The red and blue display is very attractive, substantially nicer than the photo supplied by Amazon. Like the DROK unit, voltage and current readings can be adjusted by 2 pots, if necessary, for improved accuracy. Lots of people will want to measure LESS than 10 amps (removing the necessity to use a shunt). Why, then, do all the wiring diagrams for this item show a shunt? I've included a corrected diagram and also a picture of ten 5mm LEDs wired in parallel and used as a load. If the purpose for the device is actually to measure the downsteam volts and amps coming from a 265 watt (nominal) solar panel, just remember that the 33 volts produced in the noon sun exceeds the Vcc rating that powers the volt-ammeter itself, but is well under the input voltage rating of 100Vdc. The solar 8 amps being available at maximum is nicely under the 10 amp limitation (and for much of the day the reading will be closer to 4 amps). Just make sure to consider your solar controller as the load, so the thick YELLOW wire all by itself is what connects to the controller's PV negative terminal. The 265 watt solar panel is the input source and provides the connection points somewhere downstream (but before the controller) for the thick RED and BLACK wires. If this volt-ammeter is meant to be a temporary tester only (as in my case) then a 9 volt battery will comfortably power this device for a few hours.

Excellent product. Tested it as soon as I received it and works great. For those of you looking for instructions here's how I used it: The thin red and black wires are to power the unit. This requires a voltage between 5V~30Vdc to work reliably. Below 5V, the display goes dim. Once you've powered the unit, it will display the source voltage in red digits. Now for the load current you use the thick RED, BLK and YEL wires - connect the RED & BLK to the +ve and -ve terminals of your power source respectively. Now connect the +ve of your "load' to the +ve of the power source and -ve of your "load" to the YEL wire. This should supply current to your load and display the load current in the blue display. Hope this helps.

Beau morceau, fonctionne bien. Doit avoir des notions électrique pour le brancher

Bought this for my son's power wheels after the stock board got cooked. It took me a little while to figure out the correct way to wire everything up, it seems to be working good but it's gone through a few 30amp Fuses when turned all the way up