Alden 8440P Pro Grabit Broken Bolt and Damaged Screw Extractor 4 Piece Kit - Made in the USA

After reading so many bad reviews, I almost didn't buy the ProGrabit. But, I gave it a chance, and bought and used the product to remove some 2.5" screws from an old pool table railing. Out of the 5 I used on, I succeeded on 4. The one I didn't was not due to a bad product, but me not knowing the screw was in at an angle, thus I drilled at the wrong angle and brock off half the screw head when extracting. Since I haven't seen or used a product that works any better, I see no reason not to give it 5 stars. One must follow the directions exactly, and use the extraction part at as low of a speed as possible on a variable speed drill while applying a lot of pressure. See my video of the actual screws removed, and with one still attached to the extraction head. It grabbed the screws so well, that on some, I had to use a pliers to remove the screw from the grabit after extraction. I'd say that those that complained about it either used too small of a grabit in ration to their screw, (the video shows the largest grabit holding the 2.5" screw, although I found using the second to largest to work even better), or they didn't apply enough pressure, or they ran the drill too fast during extraction, or they drilled the hole either too deep or not deep enough. The directions spell this all out very specifically, but as with any product you buy, you must READ THEM... So, as one who has hassled with many of stripped out screw heads in the past, I highly recomend this product, and would give it as a gift, and will probably buy a second or third set to have around in case I do ever break one.

This kit works astonishingly well. My first chance to use it was on my daughter's Kia. I was putting in a new ignition coil when the small hardened bolt snapped off, leaving just a small, uneven stub sticking out about 1/4 inch from the valve cover housing where it goes. I was dreading having to replace the whole housing when I remember I had this tool. In less than 5 minutes, the broken stub was out -- cleanly and smoothly with absolutely no damage to the housing. I've tried other products with little or no success. In several cases, I've ruined whatever it was that had the broken bolt stuck in it. Not this time, this time I was home free in a minute or two. Tips: #1. The instructions don't include pictures, and it took me a few minutes to realize that with each bit one tip is for drilling a small recess into the top of the damage bolt and the other is for torquing into that hole once it has been made. #2. GO SLOW, and with LIGHT pressure. The biggest mistake you can make (other than using the drill in forward rather than reverse) is to fail to align the drill portion with the center of the broken bolt. The bolt surface will be uneven so don't press into it. Position the drill right above it and start it spinning, then gently bring the tip of the bit into contact and let it make its own hole right in the center. Once you've got it started, you can add a little pressure but take your time. Make the hole good and deep. Then when you flip the bit and use the extractor side, it will astonish you with how well it bites right in and out comes your bolt. #3. Reverse, reverse, reverse. Both the drilling part and the removing part must be done with the drill in reverse.

This is one of those tools you see and think, "Well, I really don't need it. No point in spending the money." Then a few months goes by and you hang some shades up at about 10 pm on a Sunday. A screw strips out. Now you have no shades, a screaming infant, and a mad wife who is telling you it was her idea to hang the shades yesterday when the store was open. After the spit and foam from your profanity fueled tirade dries you think, "Why didn't I order that BEFORE I needed it?" These are pretty simple to use. There's two sides -- a drill side and a corkscrew looking side. Process goes like this. Place driller side out. Tighten chuck. Put drill in reverse. Drill out a little crater in the broken screw. Flip extractor bit around to corkscrew side. Put drill in reverse. Very slowly drill it into the crater you just made. Screw should come right out. I never tried this on anything high test. Just junky little made in China screws around the house. That's probably why they all stripped anyway. If it was some aerospace hardened screw and you're doing some sort of in orbit repair, your results might vary. I don't know. It's a good product that you will use probably 12 times in your entire life. But still, worth the money. And Amazon was far cheaper than any of the big box retailers in the area.

I had some badly rusted screws in an old receiver, and they were just not coming out. The heads were too rusted to grab, and the screws were in tight, from the rust. I tried the effeminate toys like the screwdriver type parts, and the Vampliers. No luck at all, I just wasted money because I was afraid of damaging the receiver by using a power tool. Well, these work great. I had never done anything like this before, but me and my trusted Milwaukee drill were up for it. It took me a while to drill the hole, the rusted part came off in a few seconds, but the hard metal core took a bit to get deep enough. Stay straight, and don't force it, and it will get through. Then pop in the other side, and it comes up. It's not super easy, but not difficult either. It took me about 20 minutes to get both screws out, because the drilling part takes a bit, but maybe that was due to my inexperience with it, and someone good at it can do it quickly. But, I finally found something that actually worked. I thought I never would. Maybe for easy stuff, the toys will work, but if you've got a screw that's just saying "No", you'd better do the same to the effeminate tools, and yes to these.

Very pleased with them. Had a screw holding the barrel lock in my PVC door which was mangled. Used this and it came out straight away. Important to follow the instructions and use a LOW speed with the drill

But I know for sure that if I don't have a set in the toolbox, I am doomed to drills, Vice Grips, and skinned knuckles. All the internet reviews convinced me. And I think the quality of the steel, and its tempering, is crucial. I saw a knock-off version in a Post Office recently, and I can report I wasn't slightly tempted.

I had stripped the screw heads on the screws holding brake rotors in place. I had tried removing them with a similar tool however, that extractor broke. These extractors are much stronger and I was able to remove the screws. I recommend that you start with a smaller extractor first and then use the one that is sized for the damaged head.

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I was faced with a bill of £231.49 plus vat for a new part ,plus fitting charge of minimum two hours labour and hydraulic fluid and other charges for consumables to replace clutch master cylinder with a damaged/broken screw on my Kawasaki 1500 d2 motorcycle,the total bill would have been in excess of £500.00.i decided to try the prograbit set after viewing it on youtube. I am no expert in using tools but I do have a de-walt cordless drill/driver,i followed the instructions exactly as given hey presto 100% success.new screws were obtained from cradley Kawasaki ------- job done----happy biker. five minute job