Raspberry Pi 4 UPS Plus Power Supply Uninterrupted UPS HAT 18 650 Backup Battery Power Supply Management Expansion Board 5V for Raspberry Pi 4B 3B+ 3B

Update: when using devices that draw the full 3a(or more) the circuit will get incredibly hot and eventually fail.I've killed two of these chips trying to charge a portable speaker that draws 3a. The 3a rating is definitely not sustainable.The circuit gets hot very quickly and then fails shortly after, even with heatsinks attached.If you're doing lower current things it seems to hold up okay, but it does make me a tad nervous.Using them to power a raspberry pi, peripherals and used in a custom powerbank.They seem to work as advertised.The 3a is split between the two ports, so keep that in mind.On the higher drain devices I did use a small heatsink on the IC as it got hotter than I felt comfortable with, but never had an issue, even on boards without a heatsink.I didn't test ripple or anything besides amperage.

So far sooo good, Note the I bought the USB STEP DOWN model and it works great. I only needed one but four for the price is a steal. They feel sturdy and have good pads I was able to solder an XT60 to one pad a thick jumper wire to the other. I'm pretty sure the three amps are split when using it with two devices so 1.5 amps per USB port. I've tested it so far running at varying voltages from 11.1 3S (Li-ion), 12-14V (lead acid), 18V drill battery lol and it worked with all. As a precaution I would advise anyone using this module to at least add an inline fuse and build a case to prevent any possible shorts and keep sensitive electronics safe. Added heatsinks to the IC's on three, unsure if that's the most suitable location but it will do. So far I've powered a Pi Zero and ESP8266 boards and even made a small solar charging station. If you plan on using these for a solar charger I would recommend using a battery as well as these don't have the smoothing capacitors or regulators to make the best of the power variations from a direct connection to a solar panel. Don't get me wrong I hooked one up to a 50 watt panel and there was some minor wine coming from the board, but I pushed it and it did charge a power bank but after an hour and noticeable heat on the heatsink and I decided to unplug it, and it still works

So far I like how it charges my cell phone 9 volt is not enough you really need to put more than that 9 volt only throws out less than a half an amp takes forever to charge something with that try 18 or 25v like recommended

Note: 3 different products are lumped together in Amazon's reviews and it's hard to tell which product goes with which review. This review is for the Black UPS...EP-0136.I have never been able to get the unit to function as expected. It is unfortunate, because I suspect that the device is capable, but the maker seems unable or unwilling to provide adequate documentation. For me the unit either shuts down when the batteries reach 3.9 volts or does not shut down at all, draining the batteries completely. Manually changing the protection voltage as demonstrated in a YouTube video has no effect. Also, the video instructions are not consistent with the written manual. Even when completely shutting down the UPS and the Pi, power is supplied to the Pi so that the batteries will drain down completely in a few days.Other than that, it does supply battery power to run a Pi 4-4Gb for up to 6 hours (or 1-2 hours at 3.9v). It does switch between line power and battery power seemlessly. It does charge the batteries when line voltage is restored.

I have used several of these now in various projects and portable power supplies and they function great and charge very quickly. Keep in mind if you do not use a heavy duty charging cable it may seem to not charge very quick or if you're not feeding it with enough current going into the module. From my experience with these they work well at 12 volts but they work even better right around the 20 or 24-volt area with a nice 5 amp RMS power supply behind it. But you should try the different cables that you have and put an amp Probe on the input and it might just Amaze you at the difference in speed your device will charge using a quality cable versus a generic cable. The only negative that I can point out on these is the blue LED is absolutely insanely bright and I really would love someone to tell me why they use these LEDs on the boards because if you have the board open for instance and aiming at your ceiling your entire room will have a blue ceiling at night time. One easy solution is to put a piece of black electrical tape over the LED and this will cut back the brightness and block it to a bearable level.