CB1-8000D 8000W Class D Amplifier

Solid amp power is insane I have it powering two 8in audio pipe quad stack woofers and it makes them hit hard. one small issue I came across is the speaker and power connections, the screw is at an angle and forces your screwdriver to rub the top of the amp as you open the connections. Other than that it is a great amp have it running at 1 ohm and have had no issues over heating. For the price it's a steal. If your looking for a powerful amp look no further.

Been using the amplifier for a little bit now I had no issues with it. Has great power it doesn't overheat and just very happy with the product recommend this product to anyone that's looking for a low price, powerful and great amplifier..

It was a good amp for a day or two then went bad I had all the right wires in it still went bad but all around it was pretty nice

Got it to make my music perform over stock.

Has crazy amount of watts for the money, ended up blowing the coil out of one of my subs LOL (they werent meant to take the power I delivered, which was about half)... So gotta order Subs that can take it, deff not the sellers fault.... ALTHOUGH I will add that I am NOT pleased that it does not have 0 gauge inputs for power/ground (have to use 0 to 4 gauge adapter) which does not make any sense considering the load.... ALSO did not like that instead of allen screws they use Philips on all the speaker/remote/power/ground inputs..... dont remember seeing that on the listing.... BUT i will say even with all that the amp does great, even the bass knob is awesome, and havent had any overheating - doesnt get hot at all.... For the money Id buy it again!!!

Three months after purchase and Im pretty unhappy with my purchase. Ive been getting weird readings from my DMM & O scope weird voltage spikes and random frequencies that appear to be bleeding through the amp. this is with no input connected. Thought it was my head unit at first, double checked everything, Checked along the power cable for strange current waveform or anything that might be feeding from my alternator. I tried keeping the volume down since the waveform (watched in real time with portable o scope) was so ugly and causing distortion. Should have not used the amp at all but im a bass head with a work commute. Turned the car on Flashes of orange flames and electricity. Well even though the amp was maybe three months if that old I tried to engage with their warranty department...well nope, wont honor it without a receipt from an install place...Like Im human, not perfect, but I know what Im doing as well as a majority of the laborers doing the installs at a lot of these car audio shops. This was a fault with the amp. Used professional tools to set gains, have an understanding of the equipment and this was a failure of the equipment not me doing something dumb hooking it up backwards shorting it out, attaching it to the sub box...so yeah, wasnt really expensive for sure but I thought hey if it blows I either have a warranty or will have owned it for a year...so that sucked. Opened the thing up hoping i could just replace the mosfets etc and get it usable for short periods of time but large parts of the widest traces completely failed, mosfets, capacitors on both input and output sides were toast, power and ground shorted somewhere. Its a good thing I have robust tough subs or it wouldve likely blown those the first month or so, i knew it was distorting badly though didnt puck up a tremendous amount of compression of the waveform but went ahead anyhow. subs lived but I feel like I got burned with them not honoring their warranty and the thing definitely uses some very cheap components and multiple protection circuits either failer or never existed. so hopefully that info can help someone trying to decided if they want to go this route. may just want to risk it but this was my experience and am running an amp five plus times the price so whats your budget I guess is always the best place to start.

Performance great. Used with pair of sundown speakers and sound is amazing

I really expected more from PA. I took a look on the inside and it's thrown together like a hurried mess! Component on board construction is very sloppy. Has noticable distortion at medium to high volume. THD is 1% and probably higher. It does bench test close to 1900 watts RMS max* at 1ohm (far less wattage at 2 and 4 ohms) That's if* you can get enough power to it. It'll clip easy otherwise. Very power hungry and inefficient. Will probably burn out your alternator even with a good in-line capacitor. Also, a lot of wear on your battery with such a high current drain. You'll have to wire in a fuse yourself. Nothing onboard or specified in the manual. This sub amplifier will easily draw 100 amps on your electrical system if* you're trying to rattle your mirrors! This may sound ridiculous, but I would suggest two or three batteries in parallel with a 5 farad (or bigger) capacitor and upgraded high output alternator. And of course 0 awg power and ground cable. Especially if it's that crappy copper clad aluminum (CCA) cable that everyone sells now. If you can afford it, buy some pure copper stranded welding cable. Much better than that aluminum crap. I'll be surprised if this amp lasts a year. No wonder PA has such a crappy warranty. The user manual is a joke and a poorly written Chinese translation. Yes China, not Korean made unfortunately. The bass knob cracks/breaks really easy and actually was already cracked when I took it out of the box. Make sure you have some super glue on hand. You'll need it. Oh, and the power and speaker terminals really SUCK! You cannot get a phillips head screwdriver on there straight enough because of the angle. Frustrating because you're likely to strip the head out of the terminal screws tightening things down. This would be a nice amp if* they had thought out the important details a little better and manufactured it half way decent. And they should label it a 2000 watt amp. Not 8000.

Hasta el momento funcionando muy bien reventó la suspensión de mi sub 12 db drive.

It is not 4000w rms at 1 ohm it is 2000w rms at 1 ohm....the spec are not the same between the cite and directly in the box...😑