5Aplusreprap Ender-3 Dual-Gear Gear Extruder Upgrade, with High Precision Hardened Steel Gears for Creality Ender 3 V2, Ender 5/3 Pro/3-Max, CR10 3D Printers, Stable and Durable, Easy to Install, Blue

I've been running a 3D printing business for years now. I've gone through countless extruders. I've finally found one that I expect will last and work well. First its dual gear, second it has washers under the gear between the gear and the arm, Third it has a proper unthreaded shaft for that gear's bearing to ride on. Fourth it came with everything needed to mount it to the extruder stepper motor. Fifth, the gear that mounts to the extruder stepper motor was snug on the shaft, was well and properly hobbed to grip the filament and the other gear, and it had a good set screw in it. (I've had issues with many others that missed of these 5 important details). Six, they took the time to shrink wrap all the pertinent pieces into a package that shows a newbie where everything important goes. Get this one, take the time to read the instructions and listing here. Be sure to lube the bearings, and understand how to tune your E-steps and you will not be disappointed.

I was having tons of extrusion issues and tried other fixes and then I figured I would replace the extruder and motor. I used a stock Creality motor with the extruder. I recalibrated my ESteps and I am getting great looking prints. Install for fairly easy. Watch a couple videos online and make sure the screw with the filament gear isn’t upside down like other reviews stated. I’m very happy with this replacement so far.

I bought two that looked very similar, beefy blue aluminum dual geared extruders. One had extra gears for each side and a regular spring for pressure. This one came with some other regular springs and two of the stronger yellow s spring, spring spring springs and some tubing connections. Neither product mentioned the piece one must print to use the filament sensor that includes loss of power and run out features which are nice when teach a child how to print and the shim block is a wonderful first project for them. Functionality, durability and affordable were all top-tier in my opinion. Both companies should definitely look into mentioning the add height need on the filament’s sensor.

This is a solid, reliable, easy to use extruder that dropped right onto my Ender 3. It is much easier to use than the BMG clone I was running before. I like the dual drive gears that grip both sides of the filament, so it doesn’t have to dig in as deep as a single drive extruder. There’s a tension adjustment on the high-quality yellow spring that holds the gears against the filament. I’ve found that this doesn’t need to be tightened much, as it works well backed nearly all the way out. Definitely calibrate you extruder steps (e-steps) after installing this extruder! Mine changed significantly and couldn’t print properly when I first put this on. A quick calibration and I was back in business. I’ve tried several extruders on the 4 different printers that I’ve owned. This one is my favorite.

Super compatible with my Longer LK5 Pro. All the pieces fit as expected. Had issues with the OEM filament feeder: the idler bearing would seize up on random occasions mid-print, not allowing the filament to feed through the nozzle. Thought it was a nozzle or heater issue for the longest time, but eventually saw the idler seize during filament loading, so i started honing in on it. Got to a point where I was cleaning the idler bearing regularly, but not able to predict when it would seize. Thought I'd give this dual gear feeder a shot, and so far, I'm glad I did! With both feeders working in unison via gear contact, it seems highly unlikely it will seize up considering there is no longer an idler bearing in play. First several prints have been excellent, with no stoppage, no clogs or feeder issues of any kind. Has brought about a huge piece of mind knowing that I don't have to check on my prints every hour to make sure filament is still coming through.

I have this on my Ender 5 Plus, converted to direct drive. With the stock Marlin i had the E steps at 140ish. With the Sonic Pad running klipper I'm at 22mm for the extruder setting, and think that might still be a little under extruding. This thing will push filament with a lot of force. Switching to this with direct drive (and changing retraction to 5mm) eliminated almost all stringing. I have much more consistent print quality as well. The Bowden setup was a terrible idea. I can understand trying to keep the print head weight down, but print quality was sub-par. Now I'm getting good quality prints and still can get 150mm/s print speed, with 300mm travel. Sure, there is some machine shaking but the prints still come out nice. I definitely recommend this, but remember: you need a long shaft extruder motor.

It's basically the same as the red one on my older V2 w/ DD conversion, but...it's blue. No instructions but easy install; if you need a hand search "Ender 3 Dual Gear Extruder Installation" on YouTube. The only thing I forgot was to change the gear on the pole from the extruder motor to the smaller diameter gear that came with the new extruder, but it was an easy backtrack. Incredibly reliable and high quality parts - came with extra springs for different applications, as well as all the expected hex wrenches needed for the quick job. Just bought another one for another printer - great value.

So, this extruder seems good for my slightly modded Ender 3 from the stock extruder. My printer is also on direct drive. The old extruder didn't have enough torque to handle slight jams or if the first layer was a little too close, which would cause it to skip frequently. Upgrading to a dual-gear extruder was the easiest way to increase its capabilities. And it definitely seems to have done that, but I had one BIG issue with this product that I had to solve. When first installed, every couple of layers were coming out extremely underextruded. The issue? The grub screw that holds the gear on the motor shaft that was sent with this product was too long and was hitting the other gear and pushing it away briefly once every rotation, causing the gears to lose grip on the filament while the motor was at that point in its rotation. To fix this, I had to file down the grub screw to be flush with the gear, which was a pain. Now it should work well. You can tell if you have this problem as well if the tensioning arm "dips" slightly at one point in the motor's rotation. I haven't heard any other reviews complain about this, so I don't know if I was sent the wrong screw or what, but it happened.