GEAR AID Aquaseal SR Shoe Repair Adhesive for Fixing Holes in Hiking, Work, Boots, Rainboots, Shoes, Soles and Rebuild Heels, Clear, 2 Pack

Let me start by saying, I use a lot of glue in my profession of 30+ years. Everything from Super glue to Epoxy. I bought these boots off the sale rack. First time I wore them at work the entire sole almost came off. Couldn't return them, wife insisted I take them to a shoe repair guy. LOL, we all know thats a huge hassle even if you find someone. So I figured I got this and ordered up this stuff (w/o telling wifey). As it turns out I had to do both boots and had to order more. I suggest 1 tube per sole and apply liberally over the entirety of both surfaces That was a month ago and so far so good... Its holding up really well. Ill share a few tips for success with glue. 1. Let the Glue cure, never rush. 2. Wear Nitrile gloves to keep glue off you. I also advise using grubby clothes just in case. Once glue gets in clothing is a major pain to get out... if you can. See my hack about acetone at the end for clean up. 3. Tongue depressors aka Popsicle sticks to apply glue works best. Plastic putty knives are better... its just such a waste of plastic. 4. If you are worried about the glue getting on the outside of the shoe I suggest taping the areas off with blue painters tape as it will ooze out when you clamp/tape the shoe back together. Remove the tape as soon as you complete clamping/taping and its done oozing out. Key thing here... Get that blue tape off before the glue sets! Or it won't be pretty... Literally. 5. If you are using tape and are concerned about the exterior finish of the shoe. Wrap the boot in paper then with tape. See pictures. For clamping get something a little thicker like cardboard or felt. 6. Sorry but I feel the need to stress this again... As with all glue let it cure! I let these boots cure for 2 days before I tried them on and gave them a very short test walk. Then I let them sit again for another 24hrs before used them. They are my daily work boots now. 7. The best things you can do for any glue is make sure the surfaces you are adhearing together are clean and old glue is removed. If you can't and the old glue is really on there its probably ok to glue over so long as its scuffed and cleaned. Scuff both surfaces well with a sanding sponge or sand paper. Clean thoroughly before you apply glue to both surfaces, give them a little time to get tacky. This time is dependent on glue. I just give it a test touch with an applicator or gloved finger. It should stick enough you need to pull away but not so much it won't pull away easily. Stick them to together and apply some type of securing device (clamps, vise, tape, etc.) to keep them stuck together. Once again.... always give the glue time to cure while item is secured. I like to give it a little more time after I removed clamps or tape for a little extra air time for curing in normal resting position. I always give glue more time then the directions advise. Don't try and rush with heat, air, etc. A fan doesn't hurt but just giving it plenty of time in an open area at room temp is ideal. 8. Lastly, here is a little glue hack I have learned. Acetone is your friend with removing and prepping for most glues. If you have old rubbery glue you need off the surface use acetone liberally with a plastic scraper and raggs. For Me, as a general rule, I wipe surfaces down with acetone before and after I scruff them. Just make sure that the surfaces are 100% dry before you apply the new glue or this will fail. Also, acetone works great for clean up. Keep in mind Acetone is what they use for nail polish remover. Do yourself a favor and save money. Don't use nail polish remover. Go to a home improvement store and buy a jug of it there for a small fraction of what the beauty industry charges. And guys, leave your ladies nail polish remover alone. Trust me on this. OK, all done, I hope this was helpful. Good Luck.

I used this on an older pair of shoes that were in perfect condition except that the soles had started to crack. It worked great to add a new layer to the sole and extend the life of the shoes. It was fairly easy to spread and work into the cracks and grooves and did a good job of self leveling. I used it on the whole sole of both shoes so most of the original tread was filled in and is now flat. Because of this it is very slick when walking on snow/slush and I have noticed that when my shoes are wet my foot slides off of the gas and brake pedal very easily when driving which is a little scary especially when braking. Just something to be aware of if you cover the whole bottom of your shoes like I did. This is NOT a problem with the product, it is my fault for creating a flat surface on the bottom of my shoes. It has excellent traction on dry surfaces. Overall I think this is a great product and I would use it again.

I used this product for my shoes that I use for construction constantly 12 hours a day in Florida weather and let me tell you they have held up great now for the price you can't beat it!!!! Definitely recommend!! Only dislike was it was small but one tube is good for one shoe. It was a good thing I got two. Also recommend properly taping them to hold and allowing it to properly cure.. the tube was also hard to direct where you wanted it and hard to pour out. Other then that bottom line IT WORKS!!

Excellent product

I used this Aquaseal SR Shoe Repair Adhesive to reattach the sole of rubber muck boots that were separating in several areas. I used a little sheet of 80 grit sandpaper to slide in and rough up the surface just a little, not sure if that was necessary. I then used a craft popsickle stick to push it into the gap where the rubber boot meets the sole and this is the first adhesive repair that has actually held on all rubber boots. I have tried the black goo and some other brand as well and they just didn't stay adhered to the rubber boots like this Aquaseal SR Shoe Repair Adhesive does. I used some painters tape to act like a clamp and some duct tape over the painters tape and left the boots over night before pulling the tape off and boots are as good as new now and since this is clear you can't even see where the sole had been separating before. I wear my rubber muck boots when painting or working with epoxy and now I have reattached soles giving my boots many more years of life.

Used on leather hiking boots which had began to leak through the seams and where the boot attaches to the sole. After a thorough cleaning, roughening with a wire brush, and wipe down with alcohol the product was applied over all affected areas. Except for one small area where I must not have cleaned enough, so it pulled loose, it has sealed the leaks. I'd used twine to pull the sole tight to the body of the shoe which I'd overstuffed. When I pulled the twine off it had dried into the small bit which pulled off. Not really pretty, but I'll take dry feet over pretty boot any time.

The best, most flexible, and attached to organic shoe materials with no issue. A nice surprise to use an adhesive that actually holds the materials and is flexible. The only hang up is that you must let it dry for 24 hr minimum so it would be in your best interest to prep the spot well so it will hold everything in place. If you did everything right and left it alone to do its thing you won’t be disappointed. I had one tear in my rubber boots that I decided to add more in the deep hole the next day, but that was on my OCD issues. Great product!

Last year, I tried to repair my LL Bean Cresta boots with a competitor’s product. I used a toothbrush to clean everything up and then just squeezed the goo in the gaps. That was it. This year, My goal was not to keep things from getting worse but to restore my boots. Experimenting with my sneakers, I’ve realized that socks in the sneaker/boot will help to retain form but that the clips don’t actually clip where I need it. I use 1/4” rope over parchment paper to hold everything in place. Where a surf at is recessed, I place an object under the rope to ensure that there is adequate pressure. The glue doesn’t stick to the parchment paper. On this boot, there are pencils on the inseam side to help keep the outer sole pressed on the leather on the inseam. The other side of the boot doesn’t need this. The tension on the rope allows me to adjust the pressure alongside a surface in about 1/4” widths. This was helpful on a pair of sneakers where there were two points along an edge where I wanted even more pressure and a point in between those two where I wanted less. Good luck everyone! Patience is the key. Either that or I should just find another piece of rope. Added 10/21/21: If you need to glue the tip of your boot, I added two more pics. I used a paper clip to hold the rope together as well as from slipping up and off the front. If the area you need to glue is substantial, you might need a few paper clips. Don’t forget to wipe some Vaseline/petroleum jelly around the threads of the tube before screwing back on the cap.