Stormsure Flexible Repair Adhesive: (3 x 5g) Clear Glue - Highly Durable, Waterproof Glue for All Repairs

I use mainly to repair worn areas on soles of walking shoes and find it more durable than Shoe Goo - and better value. I find buying 3 small tubes rather than 1 large tube helps the sealant last longer in the tube. As per instructions, I keep part-used tubes in the freezer.

Arrived in very good time - it's an excellent adhesive for shoe soles, flexible and waterproof - dont get it on your hands, you won't gat it off.

This is the right glue for shoe repair I believe. Very strong adhesion, quite thick, tacky and high viscosity and fairly toxic, came with gloves, my trainers were coming apart from the vulcanised rubber sole to upper, I got 60% adhesion the rest dried hard but clear. Way better than all the other epoxy resins. My tip is to fill the gap with a cocktail stick then hold with masking tape and fill boot with scrunched up paper and leave for 48 hours or use clamps or something. Time will tell how this holds and if I need to reapply the glue as I could have used the tape better and inserted shoe filler to allow the glue to adhere properly. You also need to clean and lightly sand just like for a bicycle tire or something. Generally happy as I think I could have used more skill in getting a better hold. Hope my review helps and gives other tips to use it as best you can. Time will be a teller.

The Stormsure flexible repair adhesive in these three little 5gm tubes is ideal. I always keep some in stock. The glue has a reasonable working time of a couple of hours, so no panic about aligning a join, but the converse to this is that one needs to arrange a means of holding the join in position. “Fast!” can mean waiting 24 to 48 hours for full strength, depending on humidity and temperature. It also tends to spread around while unobserved, so the restraints securing the pieces might also become bonded to the work! Be aware, once the seal is broken on a tube the contents will set in a few weeks regardless of closing the top. The glue has a reasonable working time of a couple of hours, so no panic about aligning a join, but the converse to this is that one needs to arrange a means of holding the join in position. It also tends to spread around while unobserved, so the restraints securing the pieces might also become bonded to the work! Be aware, once the seal is broken on a tube the contents will set in a few weeks regardless of closing the top. One of these tiny tubes has fixed several recent problems including: . A split end on my Ryobi leaf blower. . Securing the aged flush-bellows on a couple of cisterns so they responded properly to the pneumatic button push . Securing the bumper strip on a vacuum cleaner . Sealing and locking a reversing camera's mounting bracket nuts and camera lead to a fitting on the car.

Very good, used to repair join between breathable leg material and rubber boot on Kinetic waist waders (Kinetic Classic Gaiter Bootfoot). Most breathable waders last a couple of seasons at best, it does not seem to matter if you pay £500 or £1100. I have used Stormsure to repair a pair of Orvis breathable waders in the past, covering all internal seams (you have to turn the waders inside out) which reduced a flood to a seep, I could not get them totally watertight, but it gave me another seasons use. Tip, to locate an obvious hole use a torch inside the waders within a dark room. The best waders I own (though not so good for a hot summers day) are Snowbee Granite PVC boot foot, a friend has had his for over 20 years, my pair are now into their 6th season. They need a turn out to air now and again otherwise they will smell like a lump of blue cheese that has started to turn green!

Good glue: I used this to reattach some waterproof taped seams that had come away from the fabric of my work issued GoreTex. Effected a permanent and robust repair, but needed to be clamped in place with a clothes peg for best results.

I used this glue to repair a split in my wellies. Once I managed to get it set, it worked really well — it sealed the hole and has stopped pretty much most of the water getting back in. The main issue is that it’s quite difficult to clamp the edges of the wellie together properly while the glue sets. That part was fiddly and took some effort. Overall, it does the job if you’re patient, but if you have a cheap pair of wellies it’s probably not worth the .

I used this product to fix a pair of Hunter Wellington boots. It works well as a waterproof seal to renovate perished Wellington boots. The boots had been squashed while in storage in the garage and had perished at the creases normallyformed when walking and also where they had been bent over. I cleaned the boots with soap and water, dried them and applied the glue following the instructions. My plan had been to cover the whole toe cap area with the clear glue rather than have blobs of glue to give a better finished appearance. I intended the whole to area to dry clear and a bit shiny. Annoyingly I didn't dry the boots 100% and a tiny amount of moisture made the glue go white. This chemical reaction is clearly explained in the instructions but it must have been such a small amount of moisture that still affected the glue. My plan for a clear glue on the toes of the brown boots had failed as there were white patches on them. The glue did however seal the holes and stop the leaks making the wellington so isable again. They just don't look too great. It was my error though. I should have let the boots dry possibly overnight to be sure they were completely dry. About 3 months on and the glue has now turned yellowish and has darkened. Ultimately once the boots are covered in mud it won't notice. If you want the glue to be perfectly clear then make sure the surface is bone dry. If you want the glue to cure quickly then you can add a tiny amount of water and it will set quickly BUT the glue will dry white. This is due to the formation of tony has bubbles in the glue.

Prima product

bought this to fix my inflatable Intex kayak which, despite its claimed "US Military grade" (insert Vietnam joke here) pvc, mysteriously punctured on the inside with no explanation. Was somewhat sceptical having also tried to fix my last Intex kayak (which also mysteriously punctured) with epoxy resin, without success. Anyway - this stuff got the job done, and I am happy to report that i've successfully not drowned on two subsequent kayak trips. You don't get a huge amount in the 3 tube packet, but you don't need a lot, at least for my purposes. Recommended and thanks for prolonging the life of my kayak!

Ik heb deze lijm gekocht om mijn leren kussens te plakken, echter plakt het op mijn handen en alle andere materialen die ik aanraak, maar helaas niet op mijn leren kussens. Dus van mij krijgt dit product maar 1 ster.

I use this product to build up worn spots in the soles of walking shoes. I tend to walk off the outsides of heels. This product fills in those wear spots and is harder than the original rubber/foam surface, thereby making the shoes more durable. IMPORTANT to know -- this is a "self-leveling" product. It flows like water, only very slowly. To fix heels, wrap the outside with masking tape, as a dam to keep from running down the side of the shoe, then prop the shoe up so the filled area is perfectly level with where you want the material to level out. After a few hours, the material sets up to where you can move the shoes. I usually put them over a heat vent to cure - 1 day is best. They'll adhere to almost any surface and could have a LOT of uses, but building up worn soles on shoes is one place where the product really shines.

Neben Aquasure habe ich auch diesen flexiblen und farblosen Klebstoff verwendet und bin mit dem Ergebnis genauso zufrieden. Ich repariere damit die Sohlen meiner Wildling-Barfußschuhe (wenn der Klebstoff von Sohle und Patch verhungert ist oder vergrößere die Fläche nach unten). Freitag-Taschen bestehen aus Planenstoff, der an den Ecken mit der Nutzung leidet. Um weiteren Materialverlust zu verhindern, trage ich eine dünne Schicht Klebstoff auf, um die betroffenen Bereiche zu versiegeln. Ich arbeite mit einem Holzzahnstocher. Größere Flächen klebe ich mit Malerkreppband vorher ab. Bei kleinen, punktuellen Arbeiten ist das nicht nötig. Da der Klebstoff während der Trocknungszeit gerade am Anfang trotz seiner Zähflüssigkeit noch fließt, ist waagerechte Lagerung der geklebten Fläche wichtig. Lieber in zwei Etappen arbeiten, als dass das Ergebnis nicht so ist, wie es nach getaner Arbeit aussah. Ich lasse 2 Tage trocknen. Solange der Klebstoff noch trocknet, riecht er. Aus eigener Erfahrung sollte man bei Pollenflug auf eine Trocknung auf dem Balkon verzichten, da diese auch auf der Klebstoff-Fläche zum Liegen kommen und dann mit festkleben. Besser im Keller trocknen lassen. Angebrochene Tuben lagere ich in einer verschließbaren Tüte im Tiefkühlschrank. Ich rechne mit einer Auftauzeit von einem Tag.