All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora

By the time author David Rensin contacted me regarding the book he was writing about Miki Dora I'd already spoken to or exchanged emails with several people who were writing books or articles about Miki and his life.From the story I'd written before Miki's death and the tribute I'd written after he'd died (on surfwriter.net), it was assumed I knew Miki somewhat. "Somewhat" being the operative word.What impressed me from the beginning was David's integrity and absolute commitment to somehow capturing Miki and the story of his remarkably convoluted and sometimes Byzantine life in a book. He wanted it to be a fair, balanced and comprehensive account that reflected the dynamic vitality, complexity and mystery of this enigmatic individual.In my opinion he not only succeeded in that ambitious quest, but produced a real page turner in the process.As I said to David at the beginning, "Miki's and my paths crossed several times over the years - both in and out of the water - and each encounter was unforgettable."In the water, Miki was the most skilled, accomplished and naturally gifted surfer I've ever had the pleasure of seeing on a wave ... and for that he will always have my deepest respect.Out of the water, he could be forceful, intelligent, clever, funny, generous, charismatic, charming and challenging one minute, and confrontational, difficult, disagreeable, selfish, unpleasant and paranoid the next.In other words, he was fascinating, totally unknowable, and the most puzzling, unpredictable individual I've ever met.So, naturally, I was looking forward to seeing what David could make out of Miki's labyrinth of a life based his own conversations with Miki and after talking with literally hundreds of Miki's friends, family, acquaintances and enemies.What he has done is weave all that information - and all those memories, anecdotes, comments, reminiscences, revelations, facts and fiction - into a seamless account that brings Miki and pivotal events in his life back to life.As an extra bonus, the book contains dozens of revealing photos from Miki's childhood onwards, many of which have never been published before - or I've never seen before - including the last portraits of Miki taken for a Vogue Hommes International article by Prosper Keating before Miki's death.To say I couldn't put the book down would be an understatement. I'm usually a slow reader, but I raced through the book because I couldn't wait to find out where it would take me next.The funny thing is, my wife - who never met Miki and whose only interest in surfing is through me and the kids - couldn't stop reading it either. When she finally put the book down all she could say is, "Whew! That was an amazing read ... whether or not you're a surfer or know anything about Miki Dora or even care. Amazing! A genuine tour de force."Personally, I think I was expecting to simply read a book when I started. But it ended up as a deeply moving experience that often left me laughing and sometimes led to tears.The book is rich in information and background I only became aware of when I read the book. I was constantly surprised - both by the subject's pathos and the author's ability to express it so poignantly.That depth of feeling and understanding could only have been achieved by the author getting to know Miki through their personal encounters as well as by reading his letters, faxes and other writings - combined with countless hours of interviews and conversations with the people who knew him best.The research is impeccable.Congratulations, David. You've really met the challenge you set for yourself and produced the definitive biography of the man I will always think of as the "Wavemaster."It is a truly fascinating book about a fascinating life and legend.

Great book.

Mickey Dora is a person more has been written about than anyone else in the surfing world. He hated pretension and commercialization, but had no problem using it to his advantage. This book was written well in word form, very well actually. There are excerpts of letters, and testimony of the many people Mickey Dora touched throughout his life for better or in more than one case, for worse. I have read many things about Dora and most people no matter the publication or film studio and no matter the credibility of these institutions simply get it wrong, blow it out of proportion, or flat out inflate or embellish the facts so much it all gets murky. The facts are laid out here. Frankly as I read the book slowly a shadow lurked over Dora, in spots I laughed at his jokes and antics, I reveled in his non conformist attitude, I saluted his idealism and commitment to "pure surfing". And at other times I was disgusted, ready to toss the book down and continue to view Mickey Dora as this brash amazing character, and refuse to believe the darker side of the story. But I was compelled to see it through and find out what happened, not to understand, but just know, not even Dora himself understood so how can we? Reading his story at least let me know what, why and where things happened in the order they happened. Put that all behind you and just let sleeping dogs lie, and remember this, human beings are creatures of habit and extremely proud, Dora was no exception, all he did in his life was attempt to life a free untethered life of surfing, not a bad idea, or an impossible one. This book is a story about a flawed human being who traveled both the road less traveled and the beaten path, and with one foot on each! Most of us go through live conforming, it's just human nature, we live go to work and have fun when we can, or when we can afford it, Dora lived period without the same pitfalls as the rest of us, at least in his mind. His lifestyle was hard on him, and eventually caught up to him but I am sure in his mind it was the path he chose, and while some regrets were inevitable, Dora would never say so. My only complaint about the book is that the testimony, and letters and stories of others are sometimes slightly out of order, and it makes the book seem "staggered" and out of place, but all in all if you have an interest in surfing, in history or just want a great book to read this is certainly a good one to open up, whether your a surfer or not. One must never forget the one fact almost always missed in print or film about Mickey Dora, he was one of the greatest surfers that EVER lived and never forget his ability in the water, his grace and style, celebrate that instead of credit card scams and remember the man for what he was.

I love surfing and I wanted a surfing book to read when I went on holiday. This book is amazing. The life of Miki Dora was so interesting. Reading this book put a smile on my face, inspired me, made me want to go and surf, make the most of life.. and even put a tear in my eye.If you surf, this is a must read.

A long but engaging story. A real look into the life of da cat and a story of a life lived in an alternate, some would say troubled way. I would say a life fulfilled as any could be :)

An oddball, but a legend. A good read for surfers.

Magic

Great book, well researched and neatly put together. If you want an insight into surfing and Miki Dora here it is.!!