Madison Electric Products MSB1G One Gang Device Box with Depth Adjustable, Heavy Duty 42lb

These are nice boxes for going directly into a stud. I used them for re-wiring outlets in a house. They have a total of 4 wire outlets, two for 12/2 and 2 for 14/2. It's a bit difficult to get the wires into the box at first, but they'll come through and are clamped well after they're in. Since it's an American box, it comes with 2 Philips head screws, which of course are prone to strip out and that makes for a bad time. I pulled the Philips screws and used Robertson/square head screws instead.

This type of gang box is very easy to use, and easy to install in any home wiring application. It's also competively priced.

I needed to add a box in a 98-year-old lathe & plaster wall, and this was exactly the right solution. Cut the plaster and lathe with a multi-crafter tool (avoids breaking the plaster bond with the lathes compared to using a drywall or sabre saw), pre-trimmed the outer insulation from the end of 14-2 NMD-90, threaded it through the kind of strange clamp, positioned the box, screwed it in and bingo - not even any paint touch-up needed. It's nice that you can use the box itself to trace the exact opening on the wall. A lot of those metal rework boxes have bits that stick out further than the box sides, but this is all smooth with rounded corners. Keep the inside thickness of your wall in mind - this box is deep and narrow - 3 1/2 deep on the outside so fine for drywall on one or two sides of a 2x4 wall, but maybe not if you have lathe & plaster with a lot of plaster pushed through the gaps in the lathe. On the plus side there's lots of room for wiring (18.5 cu in).But... The part I skipped over is the cruddy drywall screws that come with the box. The absolute cheapest, worst screws they could've included, and @#$ Phillips head, of course, so lots of cam-out unless you really lean on the driver, which will probably push your alignment out. Others have commented on working the screws in and out of the box a bit cause they're stiff. Yeah... So I replaced those crud screws with #6 Roberston (square drive) 1 1/2 inch screws with a bit less aggressive thread, and dabbed a touch of silicone plumbers grease on each. Went through the PVC and into the wood easily and no issues with alignment.I used another three of them for a different project in a porch ceiling, and in this case was able to drill a 7/8 hole in the side (not the stud side, obviously!) near the bottom for a 1/2 inch ENT connector. A bit weird, but still lots of room inside for the outlet and wiring. I'm sure you could also drill in the bottom, but not the ends. Drilling PVC needs slow speed and patience or you'll either melt the plastic or slip and break something (maybe your fingers).So minus 1 star for those screws but otherwise a well thought out and well made product, and I've bought some more to have on hand at the current good price.

As described

I recently purchased a small shop to work on cars in. The shop is about 45 minutes from my house, so I wanted to add in a little apartment in the event I decided to work late. The existing shop had boxes that I have been using inside the living area, but I needed stronger boxes for the shop. That is where these come in.Pros:- Durability: These things are quality boxes. The difference between these and the blue, nail in kind is like night and day. These will hold up very well in a shop environment.- Ease of Use in Tight Spaces: Unlike the nail in type where you need sapce to hammer in the nails, these can fit in existing walls very easily. Just cut the drywall (or whatever material you have for your wall) slightly smaller than the box so it holds it in place, then screw it into the stud.- Marked location for wires: The wire pass throughs are marked for 12 or 14 guage wire, with an offset for each. Not something necessary, but it was a nice touch.Cons:- I found it difficult to get the box to stay in place while I screwed it in. The screws want to pull the box back. When trying to use these on open walls, you'll need to really hold it in place. It would be nice to have a set of teeth on the side against the stud to hold it in place.- Pass-throughs: These are the kind that you can press a wire in and have it lock in place. This is nice to keep it in while you are wiring, but I'm not a fan of these. They are hard to use and even harder to push excess length back in. They were also very hard to snap off if you wanted to remove them- Price: If these are not on sale or marked down, the $9 price is a pricier than going with the hammer on style. I got mine at around$2.50 ea, which was good pricing. This is also true if you are not needing anything too strong.- Useage: These are made for wood studs. If you need something that attaches to other material or do not have access to the stud, these are not for you.For my shop project, these work great! I know these are strong enough to withstand the constant use and potential hits that you find in a shop environment without breaking. I'd probably use these for walls that I'd have to cut sheetrock as well. This is a good buy in my opinion.