NIBBI PE30 Carburetot for Hawk 250 Dirt Bike, with Air Filter Intake Manifold Connector, Hawk250 Carb upgrade Performance Enhancement

So I avoided swapping my carb immediately because I felt the thousands of owners where doing it out of herd mentality and not giving the stock carb a chance . The stock carb is fine for the bike and will work for a new rider like I was for a few weeks until you master the bike then you will want more . I tried the 28 flanged pz30 replacement and it did not fit my hawk and had to be sent back the studs hit the carb body on the left side and did not allow any room to attach the nut on the left side . I was hesitant to start again but since I had came this far I bit the bullet and ordered this full kit . The manifold adapter in this kit has been changed from the one motocheeze had in his video . The replacement one they supply is at an odd angle and has about a little over a quarter inch to attach to torwards the bottom and closer to half an inch torwards the top . Once it is attached you can not use the stock breather with the 30 like some suggest . You do not have to cut it off it's is rtv attached with a rubber lip and will pull right out if pressed with a flat head to return to stock . . Once I finally got it attached out of the box it fired right up the cold air filter sounded weird at first it hisses and sounds like an air leak at one of the joining points but it is not that's just how it sounds . I ran the carb as it came jetted at 128 and 40 it greatly improved torque and speed up until half throttle . I was able to power wheelie in first gear without strong arming the bike or using rebound or up clutching which I could never do before the swap . From half throttle to full the bike bogged down like it had a rev limiter . I used the air mix screw to lean the mixture one turn and the symptom improved but was still very present but told me it was a rich bog . I took the carb apart which was simple to do even for a first time rider and dirt bike owner . It took me all of 5 to 10 minutes . I installed the supplied 125 jet that came with the kit and left the 40 . I returned the mixture screw to its original setting and the problem was 95 percent gone . You could step down to the supplied 122 or lean the mixture with the 125 but I wanted mine slightly richer . The back now performs fine through the entire throttle band . I am at or below see level in San Antonio Texas . Now overall it has increased the low end torque and increased the shift rate dramatically and cut speed build up time dramatically and by running rich the engine runs much much cooler . Overall it is well worth the money spent and isn't to big for the hawk . I like that it leaves rooms for upgrades with the carb size and jets like say if I decide to add an exhaust or do a big bore kit in the future I have enough carb to do so . If you have been wondering like I was if it was worth doing the swap or if everyone was just changing it outta of a follower mindset like I did I will honestly say the Reddit and forum crowd was right on the money on this one . It really does wake the bike up . The bike starts up on the first try with no choke although it's not freezing here it can get low 70s to 60 early morning . It worked with stock throttle cable and also helps the bike not die out when sitting or riding in 1st gear at a slow pace or hitting the rear brake which the stock carb had a habit of doing . The bikes have lots of reports of the motors being noisy and mine was also but it wasn't the valves . The carb swap eliminated the engine clatter and now sounds like a sewing machine instead of a bag of bolts shaking . The exhaust no longer wants to burn your calf off after riding a few minutes . I realize now that all this came from the stock carb being jetted way to lean from the factory . I know I supplied a lot of info but it's the stuff I wish the other users would have left for me when posting instead of just saying swap it , it really wakes bike up and so on without the details of the jets being used or the tuning or how it woke the bike up . So here I did the work for you and provided a good basis to start when setting up the carb and the reason you should actually do it . The bike no longer sounds like a lawn mower and has much lower tone at idle and a respectable thump thanks to the carb and runs a lot stronger and cooler and had a major decrease in engine noise . I also am runnin 10w 40 full synthetic bike oil (yes there's a difference) during my break in and am at 175 miles . And am now confident this engine will last a long time with these minor upgrades and proper care . So if your looking for a reason if the power isn't enough the overall health benefit to your engine and clutch should let you pull the trigger Update after playing with can the best set up is 122 and 42 for best performance and factory smooth throttle . For best performance with super Low end torque 122 and 45 . You can watch the needle drop at open throttle but it wakes up 1st and second fully but will be on the rich side of things

I have a 2025 x-pro hawk 250 (229cc) and bolted this right up to it. Tried to fire it up, bike started immediately and idled well. I rode it around a few miles and was impressed with the improved performance of the bike. However, as another reviewer noted; at half to WOT in 5th gear it felt like it was cutting out or mis firing. I did some research and found a few posts and videos where possible causes were discussed. After absorbing this information, I decided it was likely getting too much fuel and the theory is that it is 'washing out the spark'. I replaced the main jet with a 120 (I believe it came with a 128 installed). MUCH better! No more hesitation, the motor will take the fuel load at the end finally. I'm not a mechanic by any means, but am handy. It only took about 15 or so minutes to replace the factory carb with this one. Maybe 5-10 minutes to replace the jet. Easy. I'm at 900' above sea level and run only non-oxy 91 octane gas and run an NGK iridium spark plug. Hope this helps someone else out! Looks great too with the black and red - matches the bike :) Fits perfect. Update! I bought and installed the monocult stage 2 kit for the hawk 250 with the more aggressive cam & ported head. I had to rejet the carb. I’m now at pilot 38 and main 125 with 2 turns out on the air mixture screw. WAY more power!

Amazing upgrade for your hawk 250. I bought mine new in 2017 but it recently sat for a while due to issues beyond my control. The stock carb was gummed up and has the shear bolts making a service on it a pain. I could have went with a cheap direct replacement but decided to upgrade to this instead. Install took less than an hour and everything fit perfectly. You may need to delete your air box to make room for the air filter. Also since it isnt clear it comes with jets installed 128 main and 40 pilot(seperate jets if you want to play around are included). I got it all installed and put some fresh gas in her and.... WOW this really wakes up the engine, not only is throttle response improved but over all power delivery is greatly improved. It will do roll on wheelies in 1st gear now. I dont think it would do that before. Overall i would highly recommend this upgrade. For the price the quality you get is oustanding. It seriously feels like a different motorcycle.

Works perfect for all your hawk motorcycle needs! I jetted it with the 122 jet and it works flawlessly. Choke is in a hard to reach place but that’s not a huge deal. Put your fuel line on before you install it. Instructions went in the trash so who knows what info that had. Probably shouldn’t buy this if you’ve never installed a carburetor.

The carb itself is great on my 2025 hawk 250, but the intake flange that comes with it is garbage. It's hanging onto the carburetor connector with only a prayer. Fired right up though. May have to do some of your own machining on that flange though. Sure it will vibrate off on the first ride. Besides that it's a great carb, easy to install and looks great. Worth the buy but annoying I will have to do some grinding and sanding on it. The air filter also slightly pushes on the cover so might be better to just hook it straight to your factory air box so don't cut off your air hose from your box you can pull it out with enough muscle to pull the glue off to test what you may want to do.