Diamond Polishing Compound Kit of 6 Polishing Lapping Paste 80,000 to 450 Grit for Glass Watch Marble Metal Resin Rock Jewelry Etc. with High Concentration of Diamond Powder Scratch Remover Repair

Scratches in mineral glass, Hardlex, saphire, and poly watch crystals have met their match! Very effective, affordable, and high-quality diamond compound pastes in an effective range of grit. The oil-based compound is easy to spread yet keeps where you want it. It (and a handful of dremel-type, cone-shaped buffing bits) took what I thought would be a tedious job to polish a deeply scratched mineral watch crystal into a job completed in mere minutes. So easy, in fact, that kept going and polished every watch crystal and steel case in my household with even a hint of a scratch. I even used the two finest of the grits on some older watches with poly crystals and brought them to a glorious clarity and luster. As a watch enthusiast, this stuff is a game changer. I can’t wait to try it on my knives and cutting tools. One (obvious) hint- In order to work effectively, it’s important to remove all grit/compound prior to moving to a finer grit. With a handful of colored markers, I mark a small patch on each diamond paste label, then colored the top of the corresponding buffing pad/wheel/dremel bit in the same color. It makes cycling grits as easy as wiping down the workpiece with a microfiber cloth and changing dremel bits. Because the pads absorb a bit of compound, this is really the only way to not mix grits without tossing pads after a single use.

Works great and a little bit can polish a fairly large area. I used this to restore a 40 year old American Standard china bathroom sink. After decades of use it was very hazy and drab looking. I cleaned the sink then wiped it with Windex. Then used a terry cloth and the 6000 grit to start the process. Just a few dabs. Using a circular motion I polished the area. Then turn the cloth to the clean side and wiped the residue off. Then I repeated that process with 15000, followed by 80000. It is important to move to a clean area of your polishing towel every time you finish with one type of grit. If you use a towel with courser grit residue on it you won't get a fine finish. When I was done I used another clean cloth to polish off all remaining residue. The results were excellent if not better than new! The finish almost resembles glass. I love restoring things like this that might have otherwise gone to the landfill. Plus I save the time, money, and effort to put in a new sink. Very pleased. NOTE: Always practice on another item or in an area that is hidden. Once you see how it works then carefully start on the item you want to polish. I've only used this on a china sink, but pretty sure it would work on similar materials like glass or glazed ceramic that has a haze. Have not tried on metal or other materials yet. The key is to start small and gentle until you see if it's compatible and effective. Keep in mind that this isn't for deep scratches. Deep scratches would need smoothing first. UPDATE: I've now used this on metal and hard plastic and it worked amazing. I don't recommend it for paint or any soft material because the diamond grit might embed leaving a dark area. It is generally best for hard finishes. It works great but always test a sample area before applying to a visible surface. Be careful if using on a plated metal surface or chromed plastic. It could potentially remove the thin plating. Just start out slow and get the feel of how it's working on an item you are polishing. You can wipe off polish residue with a dry clean cloth and use Clear Windex (not the blue or yellow kind) to get it really clean.

Excellent product! I used for polishing resin/plastic jewelry. A little goes a LONG way! Good variety of grits, and tubes are made with snug fitting lids for each nozzle. This gives User total control of amount of product used and prevents the compounds from drying out. Not the old tiny cannister that don't keep product moist and in proper (creamy) condition. The syringe container gives the User total control of application! I used this product with a Dremel, with their soft cotton buffing pads and a layered muslin polishing pad. You can also buff by hand on larger areas. This will be my "Go To" Kit to polish small plastic items (cellphones/resin jewelry) with the ample supply of grit sizes. I'm sure it will preform as well on jewelry (14KT gold and Sterling Silver). Great value for the price!

I used it to polish cultured marble sink. Brought to a beautiful shine, but won’t remove scratches. Overall I’m pleased

This stuff actually worked as opposed to some others I've tried. Good grits, decent amounts, good application, and the applicator syringe and stopper has held up over time. I use these for sharpening and polishing knives and stuff like that, but I successfully saved a beat up watch face with it as well. I apply these to strops and use them almost daily for knife work. Easy to use, and decent price for whay you are getting.

Good stuff. Take little time. But end results. Are perfect. The video is of a mold clamp. I was just killing time at work. Pic is 2 mold clamps. For reference. I did use a die grinder and buff pads to get the surface as close to a polish Finnish. And the worked each stage of polish. To get end result.

This is pretty much a trash product. Not only did it not remove any scratches, but it didn’t even haze up, which is what happens when you polish something. It’s supposed to get hazed up and then as you go up in grit, the haze goes away. No wonder it’s so much less expensive than the comparable products because it doesn’t work.

I used these on a mosaic piece that included some fused glass. I was given this piece by someone who thought it was trash because there were black pitted spots on white glass. Just assuming I couldn't make the glass look worse, I simply followed the directions and the polishing compound completely removed the black spots. I used the largest grit, a medium, and then the finest grit to polish. It came out beautifully. There were also some scratches on purple glass that this compound successfully removed and polished. I highly recommend it. BTW, I used my rotary tool for a lot of the cleaning and polishing and that made it easier.

Buen producto pero es recomendable comprar también alguna máquina para pulir

I have been useing this on opal. And its comeing out amazing. I highly recommend you do what ever method your doing to shape. Then start at the lowest grit. Clean off the deep scratches. You may need to do this a few times. I know i had to do this do to the odd little deep scratch. But then go up the grits from there. I have been getting glass shines and they look amazing.

By hand, I was able to bring back three watch crystals from scratched (one very heavily and deeply scratched) to near brand-new condition. I'm very impressed with these diamond polishes, very impressed - they work! Unfortunately, I've used up the 450 and 1500 grit tubes, so have to buy another. The cost/benefit ratio is excellent, though!

trais bon produit merci

This product removed about 50% of the moderate scratch marks after I spent about 40 minutes polish time. I give 4 stars as the product does help removing scratches. However, it is not easy. It does take much patience, tool, skills and time to get the desired result. I partly blame the fact that I try to remove scratch marks on a piece of Corning® Gorilla® Glass 3 on my smartwatch. Such glass is scratch resistant and therefore also hard to polish. You need an electric rotary tool or a spin scrubber for sure. I do not believe elbow grease will get you there. I use a 450rpm spin scrubber with a thin foam supported cloth pad for the job. If you are working on a smartwatch, it is important to make the pad wet to lower the temperature. Otherwise high heat will damage the electronics on your touchscreen. Using the 450 grit compound, I polished 5 times x 5 minutes. After each 5 minutes I cleaned the surface and check the result. Such a break is also needed to cool down the glass before the next polish. During each 5-minute polish, I have to apply pressure. I then use 1500 grit compound to polish another 2 x 5 minutes. At this point, the original marks have become 70% invisible. Even if I do not move up from 1,500 grit to 80,000 grit, the glass surface is not at all hazy and it is very smooth and shiny already. I am not 100% sure if I can get the marks 100% gone if I spend another 40 - 60 minutes polish time. I need to find time to work on it later.