Park ToolFRW-1 Freewheel Remover Wrench

While this tool certainly is built to last forever, it's not nearly as easy or quick to use as an old/cheap one I got from Nashbar or Performance probably 15 years ago. The old one I have I relegated to a travel tool kit and wanted a new one for home use so I bought this one. This one does not ratchet (not advertised as such) and is much more cumbersome to use. The old one I have simply slips onto a 3/8" ratchet and you can crank away on it with a ratcheting motion, far quicker than trying to spin this tool around.Is the tool nice? Yes. Does it appear that it will last a lifetime? Yes. Is it the best tool for the job? Not in my opinion. 5 stars for quality and 2 stars for use.My old one that probably cost me in the neighborhood of 10% of this one and is a better tool for the job. And it's lasted 15 years already and still going strong. It looks like they still make that style if I look, but only in 1/2" drive sockets which would be pretty cumbersome. Not sure why they discontinued that style.

This is like the first time I ever saw the 'professional pedal wrench'. I almost dropped to my knees and bowed to it. Leverage is so important! Get this! I was using a rechargeable impact driver, and that's a little out there, but this tool should work in most cases. Awesome tool, weapon for stuck cassettes!

This is a tool to apply force. With this tool I had enough lever to defeat the most stuck either cassette ring, freewheel or bottom bracket, if the extractor fits in the socket. I took off some of them that before seemed impossible to detach from the wheel so I recovery several wheels I had considered lost. I was happy about that. A trick that works for me is, when I needed more leverage, I made the arm longer adding a piece of pipe.

This is not a casual tool - it's a Park Tool that is professional grade. My only modification was to go to the hardware store and replace the allen keyed setscrew with one I can hand tighten it easily.

Yes, you could just use a set of pliers to hold the remover, but the extra length of this and the fact that it's made for the job is great.Also I didn't realize until I'd use it a few times, but there's a small bolt at the top that you can use to clamp down on the freewheel remover; that way it stays in there and you don't need to worry about it falling out while you're removing your cassette.

I was having a heck of a time getting my cassette off. I had the proper cassette lockring removal tool but using a wrench I couldn't muscle it. I didn't have any wrenches big enough to help so I ordered this park tool wrench. It's heavy duty and made well and it took me 2 minutes to remove my cassette after implementing the tool.

The Park FRW-1 Freewheel Wrench is a good tool to have in the toolbox... since the leverage needed to remove the freewheel, and cassette of a wheel requires a lot of torque, strength, a vise and workbench.I would suggest with this tool, and a wheel trueing tool. It fitslike a glove over my large hybrid wheels from Fuji and Opus.It's only compatible with the Park Freewheel Removal Tool FR-1 For Shimano FW, and not with the Nashbar Tool.

From what I'm told, the freewheels can be really screwed on, so I got this heavy duty freewheel tool wrench for the added leverage.Very robust. A nice addition to my Park Tool set. It has a nice coated handle for comfort.

Using this, in combination with a large rubber-headed mallet, I was finally able to remove a very stubborn freewheel hub. It is well made and finished with a very useful grub screw for securing the head of the spanner to the hub removal tool.

I normally use a meter long breaker bar with a one-inch socket with park tools cassette tools; however, you need to be aware of more thinks with that combination. I like this tool because you can lock the cassette tool in place with a hex nut. I believe the older version had a thumb nut to lock the cassette tool which seems more sensible and user-friendly than the hex nut, especially if using the tool regularly with different cassette tools. I like the circular cross-section of the handle which is kinder to the hands.

Expensive for a bar of steel with a hex hole and a grub screw, but does the job perfectly, and will almost certainly outlast me.I guess when you are fitting/removing £200-£300 SRAM Eagle cassettes, the price doesn't look so bad.

As above

Con este aparato, si tienes un extractor de cassette de 1 pulgada, puedes agarrarlo firmemente y hacer mucha palanca gracias a su largo brazo.Se agarra muy bien al extractor ya que lleva un tornillo que permite fijarlo.Siempre es recomendable que uses un eje para también fijar el extractor al cassette. Aunque mi eje es de 12mm, yo pongo un antiguo eje de 9 mm, de los de antes, ya que me permite asegurar que no se sale el extractor.Un último detalle: al poner el cassette de vuelta, mejor usa una llave dinamométrica, o una llave inglesa con menos mango, ya que con este chisme puedes hacer demasiado par, y luego resulte imposible quitarlo (me pasó a mí, menos mal que la rueda estaba para tirar y el cassette ya viejo, me fue absolutamente imposible quitar el cassette que yo previamente había apretado haciendo un poco el bruto)