DEWALT D55146 4-1/2-Gallon 200-PSI Hand Carry Compressor with Wheels

La qualité

Thing is awesome fits in my sedan car ran my framing nailer and other high demand tools got referbished renewed option and looks new to me

excellent produit, très bon rapport prix/qualité, on a travailler a quatre hommes avec des outil a air sans aucun problème. pour construire deux maisons.

Bought this 2 months ago and used it on and off. Satisfied so far. Most of the specs are accurate, but prospective buyers may want more, please read on. Homeowners beware though, the compressor is not 1.5HP, more like 2.5. It needs a full 15A circuit to run, I measured it. First off, I'm a DIY homeowner. I owned 2 other compressors prior - a tiny 1.5G oiless and a 2HP 4.5G oil lube twin tank. The first one was confined to pumping tires (barely), 18G nailer and very small paint job (e.g., a door). Retired it quickly. The twin tank was a good as can be, short recovery time and sufficient air for most small air tools. However, it maxed out at 100psi and prevented me from using many tools. It has a long warm up time and the air usually contains a little oil. Finally, it was not mobile, the 60lbs "cube" must be carried using an awkward handle. Enter the Dewalt D55146. Its footprint is big for a 4.5G, but not bad in terms of storage since you can stand it up (tank on top). The unit is also heavy, weighing 80lbs. But it is surprisingly well balanced, not much worst than lifting my twin tank "cube". Of course, you normally just roll the Dewalt, no lifting necessary. Now the specifics. The reviews are mixed and, for 3 years, I could not decide (considering that my twin tank never failed, only my back). After New Year, the Dewalt's price dropped and I headed to the Web again. Found a youtube video about a guy who was given an old beatup version of this compressor. He took it apart and tried to rebuild it. This led me to the compressor's part list, part diagrams and price list (available at Dewalt). What I found: 1) It has a brushed motor like an electric drill. Most pumps use an induction motor. Don't know how long the brushes last, but they are NOT cheap. Sold by the EACH at over $10. 2) Compressor rated at 1750rpm, but motor probably runs much faster. It drives a large flywheel via a belt and the flywheel drives the piston rod. Sort of double gear reductions. 3) The piston uses dry lube (or no lube). It's primary seal is rubber or silicon. Bore is around 2.5" with a short stroke. The piston/seal assembly can be had for around $30, not bad. 4) The head is very simple. The valves sit on a replaceable gasket. It is not expensive either. 5) The gauges and outlet are connected to a casted manifold. Although there is an affordable regulator rebuild kit, do not break the manifold, it costs $100. 6) There are several revisions of the product. One I got in 2/2012 was "Type IV". Parts are mostly identical. The engine "mount" might have changed though. It seems very sturdy now. A review about broken mount was probably an older model. What I like about this compressor: 1) Mobile. The tires are big. They are soft run-flat. Works well on rough terrain, though not smooth on flat surfaces. Rims are solid plastic, no bearing. 2) Tubular frame, air tank and tire shaft are all welded together. The frame forms a cage that protects the inners, including the intake filter. 3) Thick and flexible cord. Heavily shielded - 14 gauge but looks like 10. Around 6ft long. 4) Nice gauges/outlet panel. The outlets are simple push in type, no need to pull back the sleeve. The regulator is not smooth, but works fine. Note that you must PULL the regulator knob out to adjust, then PUSH in to lock. Knob won't turn when pushed in. Procedure is printed on the panel. This may be why one reviewer was unable to turn the knob. 5) Motor and pump are encased in plastic, keeping dirt away from the inners. It also channels air through the engine to keep things cool. The motor runs a fan at high speed and draws a lot of air. 6) Air tube out of the pump is just warm/hot, not the usual burning hot. I touched the 3/8" aluminum tube and was surprised at how cool it was. Freshly pressurized tank is barely warm, meaning more useable air. 7) Quality OEM intake filter. It is plastic, but has a replacable filter cartridge. Resembles a Solberg 6CFM model. 8) No oil in the air. I can now use it to aerate my lawn. 9) No warm up necessary. I put this last because I'm not sure. One reviewer said it took 15 minutes to warm up. The instruction says nothing about this. Seems unnecessary by design; besides, the pump stays cool during run. What I don't like about it: 1) It needs a full 15A to run. It maxed out my Kill-a-Watt at >15A and >1800W. Be careful when using this on a household circuit. 2) Like others said, you need to hold the unit at 45 degrees to drain the tank properly. During operation, the thing sounds almost abnormal. The pump makes little noise, but the motor whines and manufactures ozone. Tank reaches 100psi quickly. The remaining 100 takes a couple of minutes. Strokes slow down as pressure builds. Pump stops at 220psi and cuts back in around 160. And the cycle happily continues. Update June 2016 ------------- After 4 years of weekly uses, I have a few more things to report: 1) Still running strong. The motor and pump make the same low pitch hum as before. More importantly, the tank pressurize in about the same time. 2) The ozone smell disappeared after a few months. 3) It is a steel tank after all. Rusty water comes out of the drain now. Not bad though, nothing like the stuff that came out of my previous twin-tank. As mentioned by many, draining this guy is no easy task. 4) The female adapters are very hard to engage. I always worry about breaking them off since I have to push really hard on them. 5) Although the tank has over 200psi worth of juice, the regulator cannot manage such pressure. In fact, setting the regulator beyond 140psi is likely bad. Why? See below. 6) It started to leak ... very disappointed. But it turned out to be my fault. The leak came from the regulator. Upon disassembling it, I discovered that a plastic disc inside had deformed. It was probably caused by me setting the pressure too high, forcing the disc onto a stop repeatedly. Why? I used the DeWalt to fill a 7gal portable tank to 120psi (160psi rated), so the compressor needs to be at 150psi or so. My bad. For now, I just flatten the disc using a heat gun, so far so good. Update May 2017 ------------- The compressor is still running strong. Unfortunately, my regulator fix did not last. The repair kit (part #N008792) is expensive (~$20), but it did the job. Will have to see how long this last. I have high hope since the disc that failed before is now beefier (see picture, new one on the left, old one on the right). The disc fits tighter too. There was a comment about how I use a compressor to aerate my lawn. Basically, I wet my lawn well before hand. Then I just insert an HF blow gun with a long nozzle extension randomly into the soil and release some air. If the soil is loose, the air will escape with no resistance. But if is packed, the ground will puff up and loosen a bit.

Excellent compressor. Great price.