FYSETC3D Printer Ender 3 Thermistor - Ender-3 V2 Neo Hotend Part: HT-NTC100K 3950 Temperature Sensor Cable 1M/39.3inch XH2.54 2Pin Compatible Ender 5 Pro CR6 CR10 A8 MakerPro Extruder (Pack of 3)

I used this on my Ender 3 v2 with a Dragonfly BMS hotend. It will also work on the stock Ender 3V2 hot end. You will need to change the Marlin settings in configuration.h toConfiguration.hTEMP_SENSOR_0 13Temp_sensor_0 is the thermistor configuration number for the hot end. Your default number is probably 1. Change it to 13.If you also added a higher wattage heater cartridge, you may need to changePID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE value to 25. The default value for pid_functional_range is 10. If you use a higher wattage heater cartridge, such as a 40W unit, you may need to raise this setting to 25. If you use a 60W heater cartridge, bump the value to 28. Raising this value will help control the temperature overshoot caused by stronger heater cartridges.Be sure to do a PID tuning. This is super easy to do. Search online for a tutorial on this. With the configuration changes in Marlin and a PID tune, you should be good to go.

This appears to be the same 100 KOhm thermistor used by PRUSA and other REPRAP printers. Room temp resistance is around 100 KOhms. It is the correct 3mm diameter, but I needed to drill out its receptacle hole in the heat block with a 3 mm drill--apparently it had shrunk a bit. I confirmed this by trying to insert the original (broken wire) thermistor into its previously-occupied hole and it too was too "large".The two-pin female connector is too large to fit into the PRUSA board socket. I cut it off, crimped on two new contacts and inserted them into a smaller 2-connector block which inserts easily. If you can't do this, consider reusing the old connector by making an in-line splice of its wires. My smaller connector has the added advantage of fitting through a cooling slot in the electronics enclosure, which allowed me to tie-wrap the new thermistor cable outside the cable bundle, saving the unwrapping and re-wrapping operations. I also slid the shrink-tube at the thermistor base out of the way to allow a right-angle bend of the wires to make it compatible with the cable exit, in line with the heater wires.BTW, this repair was prompted by the LCD panel showing "MINTEMP ERROR", which PRUSA really should change to tell you exactly what is wrong and what to do about it, something like CHECK HOTEND THERMISTOR.

I’m so happy I stumbled across these thermistors. I have already been through 3 of the E3D v6 stock thermistors (the blue ones are so damn delicate). Like one of the other reviewers stated you will have to trim some of the heat shrink but that took all of 30 seconds to do. It’s also nice knowing I have 2 more of them if and when this one fails. I tend to print carbon fiber and PETG a lot and even the smallest fluctuation in temp can ruin a print so I am hopeful it stays accurate for awhile. The only problem is that it is less flexible than the blue ones so you will have to bend them to fit with some mods (that’s probably why my thermistors and cartridges are always failing).

these actually are more inline with an ATC Semitec 104GT-2 temp table if you use the 3950 marlin or klipper setting you will be 20 degrees to low . otherwise very accurate and reliable

Tested on a Creality CR-10S Pro v2, SKR Pro v1.2, BTT Mosquito clone using a 50W cartridge (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085NDKGBQ) with Boron Nitride paste on both the thermistor and heater cartridge (https://www.amazon.com/Slice-Engineering-Boron-Nitride-Paste/dp/B088CHBZQ4). I was able to verify its accuracy +/- 1 degree using a high end thermocouple meat probe (rated for 300 C) stuck into melt zone tested 20 C increments to 240 C.Marlin 2.0.6.1Configuration.h TEMP_SENSOR_0 13 PID_FUNCTIONAL_RANGE 25Because the 50W heater is crazy strong and can heat up my hot end in about half the time as my stock 40W Creality heater, you have to tell Marlin to go from full power to PID mode sooner otherwise it will overshoot and take a long time to stabilize.

They are super accurate and are basically plug and play, you dont really have to change the firmware since by default thermistor 1 is already chosen as the default thermisor. Moreover, you will need a different heat block but thats an easy fix, theres many on amazon which are less than 10 bucks and are copper plated. I did have to make it longer using solder seal connections, but even after than it works great.