Professional M105 Ultra Cut Compound, 8oz

Great Product. I used this after wet sanding with 2,000, 3,000, 5,000 and 7,000 Grit wet sand paper after repainting a front fender and rear back door with Dupli Color Base Coat and Dupli Color Clear Coat. I first used Turtle Wax Cutting Compound but it didn’t do a great job so I read about this product and it works amazing. It took multiple applications and I did this by hand and applied a lot of pressure in circular motion but it made the paint look like a factory finish and as shiny as the original paint on the touching body parts of the car that is in amazing shape for a 12 year old car. The shine is just as good as a freshly waxed and ceramic coated finish after multiple applications. I can’t wait to put a wax and ceramic coating on it in 60 days after the paints solvents air out.

Tremendous product. Have a new black vehicle and noticed large bird droppings on the lift gate. NOTHING would take them off. Tried to wash them off, use club soda, liquid soap...nothing worked. so I searched amazon and found other users who said it works on bird droppings. OUTSTANDING! Plus it eliminated the small scratches around the area where I tried other methods. All gone, and finish is perfect.

⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ I picked up this compound to tackle some heavy swirl marks and scratches, and it delivered exactly what I was hoping for. A little goes a long way, and it cut through imperfections much faster than other compounds I’ve used in the past. It worked great with my polishing setup and left the paint looking dramatically better. While a finishing polish is still recommended afterward, the correction ability of this product is impressive. Definitely a staple in my detailing arsenal now.

Good stuff, but works best on only very minor abrasions

This product will work best in scratches that have peeled the first layer -clear coating- of your vehicle’s paint. As the bottle states, it removes 1,200 grit or finer sanding marks. If you want to find out if the ultra-cut compound would work for you before purchasing it, you will need to get the scratch wet with soapy water using an atomizer or spray. If the scratch disappears when wet, then you will be able to buff it out with this product. For context, the scratch in my vehicle was about 5 inches long, and 80% percent of it disappeared when wet, with the exception of the deepest areas at the beginning and end of the scratch. Because of this, I was far from certain that the product would work, but it did! Here are the steps that you need to follow: 1) Using an atomizer/spray, clean the area with soapy water using a microfiber rag. 2) Once dry, proceed to apply the product along the scratch. 3) If buffing by hand, alternate in between circular and perpendicular movements in relation to the scratch. For instance, do three rounds of circular motion, then three round of perpendicular motion and so on. Add product as needed. Don’t be stingy with it. I used about a quarter of the bottle to get rid of the scratch. 4) You will need to be patient. Within the first 5 to 10 minutes you might see little to no change. After about 10 minutes you will see that the scratch starts to disappear. In my case, the scratch was visually gone, but at an angle I could still see its indentation. Up to that point I thought the product was merely masking the scratch. However, after 30 minutes of buffing, the scratch was totally gone! In total, I spent about 30 to 40 minutes to get rid of a 5 inch scratch. I’m certain that the process would had been much faster if I had used a rotary buffer or DA polisher. Lastly, I tried the ultra-cut compound in other minor/more superficial scratches, and needless to say I spent much less time -10 to 15 minutes- in each of those.

This is probably the best stuff I have used to take out heavy swirls and deeper scratches with. I have used this with a rotary with a wool pad to get out heavy swirls and the random deeper scratches at the same time in about 4 or 6 passes at speed 1600 to 1800 RPM with some pressure on the first 2 or 3 passes and just the weight of the machine the last two or so. Used it today with a foam cutting pad on the rotary at a speed of 1400 to 1600 RPM used the same 4 to 6 passes as above. Got the swirls out and finished out pretty good. I have also used this with cutting foam pads on the dual action polisher and it removed heavy swirls very well. Just not so much with the deeper scratches like the wool pad did, at least not without doing more passes with heavy pressure. Still used the 4 to 6 passes with heavy downward pressure for the first 3 passes and light pressure on the last 2 or 3 passes. This actually finishes out pretty well this way with very little need to use a polish afterwards. Im pretty sure you could finish out very well with this even by using it with a polishing pad for real light swirls ... just finish of with light pressure for the last couple or few passes. Being that this compound uses SMAT abrasives (the abrasives dont break down) this allows the product to cut really fast and allow for fewer passes than compounds/products that use DAT abrasives (abrasives that break down with more passes). Which of course will save you time and effort. This does dust up using the wool pad quite a bit.. but that is usually from having too much loaded on the wool pad along with the heat generated. If after a few passes you feel like its a bit dry you can mist the paint area with a little bit of water to reactivate the compund and do a few more passes. With foam pads I dont have near as much dusting when used on the rotary ... on the dual action however it will dust pretty good. But the dust doesnt ever hurt the paint finish or the performance of the compound. This is a great compound to use in a variety of ways. The method depends on your level of defects, paint hardness, and what you condider good enough.

Good product for compounding bad paint.

I used this with a large orbital machine and a foam bonnet. I was starting with a surface that had been sanded with 1500, 2000, and 2500. Since the product advertises quick removal of 1200 grit marks, I figured I was safe using 1500 and that it would go quick since I finished sanding with 2500. I primed the foam with Final Inspection. This tip is found on the bottle of 205, but I used it with 105 too. On the first panel I found that the 105 quickly polished the fine haze left by the 2500, but that it left a lot of deeper scratches. That may be in part due to the poor performance of my orbital machine (a Craftsman). I'm sure I would have seen better results from a rotary wheel, but I choose 105 over the traditional Heavy Cut and Medium Cut Cleaners because I don't have a rotary and all the wheels. With some more work, the 105 removed all the sanding marks, but I found that it dried fairly quickly (working in the shade on cool panels) and I ended up using a lot of it. I ended up using 8 oz on one medium-sized SUV (and I didn't even do the roof or hood since those have a different finish). It was important to follow directions and wipe the compound off each panel as I finished. I found that as I reduced the pressure on my orbital, the foam pad would buff most of the compound off as it dried up within a minute or so. I wiped the rest off with microfiber. I can imagine if someone put this all over the entire car in the sun, they'd have one heck of a job getting it off. I figure the difference between Professional products and the consumer ones, is that with the professional ones, it really is critical that you follow directions. When I was done, the surface was ready for 205. Really, my only misgiving about it is it could have been coarser. If I were to do this job again, I would want to have started with 800 grit, and finished with 1200 or 1500, but this 105 compound would not have handled those sanding marks, at least not without a wheel. Going to a more aggressive abrasive means adding more steps to the finished work, and from my initial experience, this product doesn't fit in the series of steps in a place to be as useful as it could be. I can almost do the same job with Fine Cut Cleaner (traditional diminishing abrasives). I also used 205, which I found much easier to use as it did not dry so fast. I could do larger areas at a time and it was just much easier to use. But it left a lot of very fine swirl marks that Show Car Glaze took off. I probably could have skipped 205 and just used No. 7.

Does exactly what it says on the tin, or in this case container. May seem expensive but you get what you pay for. Don't think I can throw anymore one liners in this....

Does an excellent job, makes a bit of a mess, but boy does it give a mirror finish? Heck yeah!

Removed scratches from my guitar effectively, don’t leave any powder or residuals.

Very cheap and quick delivery

Buen producto si cumple con su función principal