Polymerized Linseed Oil. 100% Natural, VOC-Free, Fast Curing Wood Sealer. Food-Contact Safe, 16oz Can

It's the best linseed oil I've ever used. And the honey-like consistency is a plus for the final coat.

I recently purchased a 6' long butcher block for the kitchen without realizing the wood was raw and unfinished. I wanted something 100% safe and that I could apply inside. This turned out to be the right answer for anyone not allergic to flax seed. It's also an extremely forgiving finish to apply so long as you follow my suggestions on helping it along.This PLO barely has any smell at all, and unlike boiled linseed oil (BLO), this is non-toxic at every stage of finishing. It's safe enough for kids to apply with their bare hands... if you don't mind big sticky messes! BLO on the other hand is only safe after fully curing, and if you don't mind heavy metals in your finish.The end results were just what I wanted but the drying and curing time was longer than I thought and needed more help than documented. Let me talk application and expectations.The PLO comes out the consistency and stickiness of honey, so prepare your work area accordingly and stick to non-woven pads to apply it. I tried three different ways of applying it: rags, foam brushes and non-woven pads. The pads were by far the easiest and least messy way to use, honestly don't even start without them. I used a 220 grit sanding block to prepare the surface and after the first coat. You want to try for as thin of a coat that will cover the entire surface without any excess as you wait for a coat to dry.To speed up the drying AND ensure it dries without any cleanup needed be prepared for at least two clean up cycles per coat. After application wait about an hour and then use a clean-ish pad to wipe up the excess. Repeat every six to 12 hours. This will minimize drying time and ensure you don't end up with any areas that just won't dry. You'll notice that areas you thought were drying will appear wet again. Remember to be careful storing wet rags or pads as drying oil can heat up and cause a fire. PLO dries slowly so it's not as likely to do this as with other oil based finishes but worth practicing safely. Just leave your pads and rags out to dry instead of wadding them up before disposal.In my temperature controlled home (70 degrees) it took a good 24 hours for each coat to dry this way. When I failed to do this it took about 48 hours.After the first coat I switched to 400 grit sanding block and repeated.When the final coat is no longer shiny use a clean terrycloth to buff. Now comes the hard part: waiting even though the surface looks done. The wood no longer looks wet and it's no longer sticky but it feels waxy. While the waxy residue is coming off it's still curing (hardening). Buff off the waxy residue a couple of times over the next 24 hours and this is when you can start to actually use it if in you are in a hurry. If you can wait 2-4 more days you'll get most of the waxy stuff off and ensure the finish is as durable as possible.Overall can't recommend this product enough for an indoor, food safe, forgiving, pet and child safe finish at every stage.

This linseed oil was extremely easy to use and leaves a nice finish. Others who complained about a tacky finish must not have removed the excess oil on application. It is important to apply, let absorb, then rub off excess until it is no longer wet. Consistency is between motor oil and honey, the key is to not apply too much or you have a lot to wipe offI used to refinish a rifle stock (American Black Walnut) and am extremely happy with the results. Photos are one application

Linseed oil, derived from flax plant seeds, undergoes pressing and occasional solvent extraction. This edible oil serves as a wood finish, but its "drying" process—more accurately termed "curing"—requires considerable time to be exposed to oxygen. Traditional linseed oil finishes (such as boiled linseed oil) incorporate metallic dryers to hasten oxidation, but these additives render the finish toxic for ingestion. The Walrus Oil team circumvents this limitation by pre-polymerizing the oil by heating it in an oxygen-free atmosphere, allowing it to complete polymerization relatively "swiftly" once applied (more details to follow). If you remember your organic chemistry, team Walrus takes advantage of the oil's Diels–Alder reactions (heat-induced cross-linking reaction).What I Appreciate About the Walrus Oil Linseed Oil Finish:1. Minimal Yellowing: Unlike boiled linseed oil, this product doesn't significantly yellow light-colored wood (see photos).2. Edible and Additive-Free: The absence of additives makes it food-safe, and suitable for use on wooden bowls and cutting boards without concern.3. Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) Considerations: While the product claims to be "VOC-Free," I'd classify it as "low VOC." My air quality meter detected an increase from 0.039 mg/m³ total VOC to 0.117 mg/m³ simply by opening the can nearby (see photos). Although still very low, it does emit a discernible smell.4. Hand-Rubbed Finish: As a penetrating oil finish, it integrates deeply into the wood rather than forming a surface film. Perfect for furniture that receives frequent touch and interaction.Aspects to Note About the Walrus Oil Linseed Oil Finish:1. Viscosity Challenge: Due to partial polymerization, the oil resembles honey in consistency. Brush application can be tricky for an even coat. Hand-rubbing with a cloth works better, as friction-generated heat reduces viscosity. Mixing with mineral spirits may enhance penetration into the wood.2. Curing Time: The can's instructions specify a curing time of 12 to 24 hours. However, my test piece in a warm garage remained greasy even after 24 hours. After wiping off excess oil and waiting another day, the surface still felt oily. Plan for an extended curing time if your project is time-sensitive.3. Indoor Use Only: Like all linseed oil finishes, this one isn't water-repellent or UV-resistant. If applied to a cutting board, promptly wash and dry it to prevent damage to both the finish and the wood.In summary, the Walrus Oil Linseed Oil Finish suits food-contact applications and fine furniture, provided you navigate its limitations effectively.

i love it!!!