Rutland Products Black, 10.3 fl oz Cartridge Furnace Cement, 10

I recently cleaned out my gas fireplace and discovered that one of the logs was cracked in several places and just about to break apart. After trying to research repair or replacement online I read that this stove caulk could be used to repair bricks and ceramic fireplace logs. The logs in my fireplace are not connected to the gas line but are for decoration only, so repairing them seemed like a safe option. After I got my caulk I took the log outside and placed in on newspaper anchored with stones, then squeezed out a few inches of caulk and rubbed it into the cracks on the log with gloved hands. The caulk didn't stick well to the porous ceramic of the log, so I rubbed it on generously, trying to force it into the cracks. Then I placed the log on a foil-lined baking sheet and put it in my oven and turned the temperature up to 500°. I let it bake at 500° for about 45 minutes and then turned off the oven and let it cool down naturally. A couple of hours later I took it out and it was nice and secure and no longer in danger of splitting apart. I suppose if I wanted to be really fancy I could buy some high-heat brown spray paint and paint over the black caulk, but it's not really that noticeable in the dark interior so I don't think I'll bother.

Works great

Be sure to squirt a good amount of product out on a paper towel or something before using. When I opened and squirted a little test amount to see the color and texture, there were pockets of black liquid that came out, probably from bieng stored upright and some separation of the product. I would have been upset had I just cut the tip and started dispensing on my situation, that black runny liquid would have dripped on my brick hearth. After dispensing a bit of the product the pockets of liquid stopped coming out. I just needed to seal a several small holes in the flue pipe where I had to modify the crimp with sheet metal snips to get it to fit in the flue collar. Somehow 8" today is bigger than 8" 30 years ago? Maybe a metric thing...probably no longer an American made new flu pipe. This full tube was less expensive than the little hand tubes, and hopefully my capping it will keep it viable for some years as I take apart this connection twice a year to cap and uncap the flu, otherwise the downdraft we have will fill the house with the smell of creosote in the off season. My stove connection is not the prettiest, but few notice it. However I think the product dries fairly black but not "black-black". Someone else reviewed that it was gray when dry. I attached a picture of a dab after being properly fired to at least 500 degrees as the instructions say. You can see the black of the flu pipe is actually less black than the stoves flu collar. So yes, if you are sealing your "black-black" stove, you are going to see a color difference. It matches this flue pipe almost exactly though. My wood stove is for heat, not show, so as long as it does its job, it's all good. Those little holes were letting out tiny sparks right in the direction of my paper and kindling!

With Spring here it was time to clean out our woodstove pipes. Which mean complete disassemble of all the pipes and removal of any furnace cement. I drove down to our local HD in search of a tube of Rutland Furnace Cement only to find out that they no longer stock it on the shelves and transferred it to online only. With that being the case I did some searching on Amazon and found the tube cheaper than HD so I went ahead and bought it here. What I really like about this furnace cement is that you can use a dull chisel or screwdriver to remove it when it’s time to clean after the season is over. The tube is easy to use and has more than enough to last a couple seasons. A couple things I need to mention about this tube is that….. ……you need to cut a small hole on the tip (roughly 1/8”) anything bigger you will lose a lot from pressure squeeze out unless you remove the pressure every time after you squeeze the trigger. .…..also the initial first squeeze on the trigger will push out a small amount of liquid so be prepared for that. .…..mask off anything you don’t want the cement to adhere to (plus makes the job a lot neater). .…..use gloves, this stuff stains your fingers black. .…..having a damp paper towel or rag to clean up immediately is extremely helpful. ...…most importantly you MUST start a small fire to cure the cement with heat.

eight month ago i temporary fixed a big exhaust pipe leak on my car and still is not leaking

Yikes. Ceramicists: Do not use on your kiln ! I thought I would reinforce my cracking top to my Paragon kiln... so I spread a layer on top. The product warped upwards and pulled large chunks of the kiln brick with it. :(

This is the product one needs to re-attach wood stove door gaskets and similar items. It works.

Easy to use. About the same consistency as normal caulk. I read other reviews, and agree it is a good idea to squeeze a little bit onto a rag or paper towel when you first open it because there seems to be a little thin material near the tip. But that is no big deal at all because after that it flowed out great. I let it air dry about a day and it was pretty hard and then started a fire and it hardened up great. You can't expect it to stick to ashes or soot, but no caulk or adhesive would do that. Overall, it worked great for me to seal up some gaps ranging from about 1/8" to almost 1/4".

Extremely useful for high temperature application. Cures easily and extremely fast

Product is easy to use and perfect for sealing the flue on my woodburning heater/oven. Highly recommended product.

Excelente para sellar las uniones de las placas de cerámica de un calefactor de gas, muy importante respetar los tiempos de secado y la primer cocción de 5 min

I restored this pot belly stove and sealed every possible crack. Fired it up outside and the cement harden rock hard. Very happy.

Sa donne exactement se que je voulait