Hoya R72 Infrared Lens Filter 46mm - IR Pass Filter 760nm-860nm for Camera

This filter blocks nearly all visible light. Consequently, it looks opaque and black to the naked eye, though if you hold it up to a strong light source, you will be able to see a dull, deep red image through it. The R72 is one of the most common filters used in infrared (IR) photography. If you get really serious about shooting in IR, you may want to look into having your camera modified to remove its built-in IR-blocking filter, but even with that filter in place, some cameras can be used for IR photography, given a suitably long exposure. (Incidentally, what we are talking about here is "near-infrared" light, which, although invisible to our eyes, behaves very much like normal light in the way it reflects off objects. This is not the same as seeing heat as light, which involves a deeper portion of the IR spectrum.) I have used this filter with an unmodified Canon EOS 5D Mark II digital SLR camera and a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 lens (the original version from the 1980s, not the all-plastic one made now, which may or may not take the same size filters). The camera's auto-focus capability works perfectly with the filter in place. In direct sunlight, I have found that with the camera on a tripod, an exposure of about 15 seconds at f/5.6, ISO 400 produces a good image. After that, what to do is a matter of creative judgment; the picture obviously won't be in natural colors (that's the whole point of shooting in IR), so you can adjust white balance however you like. I often exchange the red and blue channels, as well. Sometimes I reduce the end result to grayscale, sometimes not. Now, one may ask at this point, if we are photographing infrared light, what is all this talk of red and blue and white? The answer is that the camera's sensor, though designed primarily to pick up visible light, is also somewhat sensitive to IR. However, the camera cannot distinguish between IR and visible light. The IR that it senses, it records (incorrectly) as shades of visible light (mostly red). This is what we see in digital IR photography. We are seeing, in colors we can see, an image made from light that we cannot see directly. IR photography is a lot of fun and at times it provides a strange sense of discovery. It is strange and sometimes thrilling to see our familiar world in such an unfamiliar way. The Hoya R72 filter is a good choice for IR work.

If you're wanting to try IR and not mod a camera, this is the way. Even on fairly older cameras, it will work pretty well as long as you have access to high ISO and are ok with grain/noise from it. You will do best with faster lenses and wide field of view so you don't need to stop down f-stop and reduce light, you need a lot of light to shoot in IR. So if you pick up a filter, set your ISO to max or near max and try low f-stop like F4 or so, wider angle lens, and do not shoot directly into the sun, look for things that reflect sun and you'll see the effect of IR reflecting off things and showing up as bright white. The sky will darken, tree's go white, etc. 720nm+ longer IR will show this. I'm shooting this on my favorite carry camera, an older Fuji X100S. I have to shoot around F4, ISO 6400 to be able to hand hold shoot things without too slow of a shutter speed. No hot spot or issues with the lens, 23mm so naturally wide angle field of view. Photos attached to show example.

This is a fantastic intro IR filter. I'm brand new to IR photography, so I can't vouch for how well it compares to others on the market (or even a full on conversion!) but I can definitely state that I was able to take it out of the box, place it on my lens, and within 5 minutes I was taking photos like the ones that grabbed my attention and got me interested in infrared photography. While you can only take long-exposure shots with this due to the physical limitations of non-converted cameras, it still results in the lovely ghosty, vintage look that I've been obsessed with lately. Now, there is a fair amount of post-processing required to adjust for the sometimes frustrating exposure results, but I figure it's a fair trade-off for not having to convert one of my camera bodies to permanent IR just to dip my toe into this aspect of digital photography! As far as the product itself, it came sealed in your average filter box. My only complaint with it was that the filter box had some small broken pieces of plastic rattling around in there which initially worried me, but they were only making contact with the metal ring on the outside and so were not causing problems with the glass or coating. The filter itself feels fairly heavy and seems slightly thicker than my Kaesemann circular polarizing filter. I was most successfully able to focus my Nikon D810 by taking the filter off, autofocusing, then changing it to manual focus and placing the filter back on. Adjusting the aim on it could be accomplished by putting the camera into Live View, but any refocusing I did required that I remove the filter for a moment. I feel like the camera may be able to focus with it on if I find a subject with sufficient contrast (I was using trees in spotty light, so not ideal for testing that.) Hot spots were definitely a thing, but that's a known problem with using a normal lens for IR and is not a fault of the filter. The differences between "straight sunlight" and "cloudy sunlight" (3pm light) were tremendous and required quite of a bit of fiddling with shutter speed! Attached are two copies of the same photo, which was taken during my first trial of the filter. The first is unedited, looking as it appears straight from the camera, and the second is after fiddling with it in Lightroom.

Great quality filter, returned cause I didn’t get the desirable results I was hoping for. I have sony cameras and apparently the newer the sensor technology the more infrared light it blocks. The filter didn’t do much. Long exposures and tripods are a must if you go the filter route. Didn’t get much color separation and everything foliage looks fuzzy cause the long exposures. Overall mediocre results, next thing for me, convert one of my cameras to IR. If you own a fuji camera you’ll get better results or maybe other brands your mileage may vary.

a great IR filter. not like the other cheap fake filter I purchased before. I have both Canon 400D that doesn't had Hot Mirror and Canon 7D that had a Hot Mirror to reflect IR light, I'll post a comparison later. here's the setup I did to take the shot, but before that this is what you must carry with you. 1- DSLR Camera 2- Lens that support 77mm filter size. (consider that you may need Lens Hood for best quality) 3- IR Filter 4- Tripod 5- Wire or Wireless remote taking the shot: 1- take over exposed shot for the grass with your IR filter. (the healthy grass and faced to the direct sun are recommended)* 2- use the shot to make custom WB after that remove the IR Filter.* 3- attach your Camera to your Tripod. 4- setup the scene for the way you like and make sure you focus.** 5- Turn off the AF. 6- attach your IR filter and take a test shot with low Aperture like from F11 to 22 to see if there a Hot Spot in the middle or not, if yes it's better stick with aperture of F4 or higher.*** 7- take your shots. Note 1: I'm using a costume WB is for reference because it'll be so hard to see image washed with red, and with this way it'll be more accurate to see how shot gonna be. Note 2: from my side my cameras able to Auto Focus while the filter is attached but it's still better to remove the IR filter for each scene and attach it again. Note 3: if there's Hot Spot in the middle of the photo I have a bad news for you, you may need to replace your lens, but there's small solution is to use high Aperture (I usually using from F2.8 to F4, if you considering to buy new lens search for recommended lenses for IR photography. Post Processing. before you start process the shots first you need to download Adobe DNG Profile Editor, you can find it easily by Google, you may need to do it once for each camera. First.. Camera Calibration. (Only Once) 1- Open any good IR shot with Adobe Camera RAW. 2- don't do anything with the image other than putting the temperature to 2000. 3- click save button and save the shot as DNG format and close Adobe Camera RAW. 4- Open the Adobe DNG Profile Editor in same shot folder or desktop. 5- click File>>> Open DNG Image... then open your DNG file we saved before 6- click the Color Matrices tap. 7- in White Balance Calibration... but the Temperature to 2000. 6- click File>>>Export YOUR CAMERA NAME Profile. 7- save the profile to C:\Users\USER\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles. Second.. Post Processing. 1- open any IR shot in Adobe Camera RAW. 2- in the right tools, go to the Camera icon or Camera Calibration. 3- from Camera Profile chose the profile we created before. 4- go to the first tab and now you can choose any number from Temperature or by White Balance tool by hitting I button from keyboard and choose any pixel from image that suitable to your taste. 5- Open the shot by holding Shift then click Open Object for we can modify the image in case when we need. 6- in Photoshop choose Channel Mixer... from the right tools. 7- in Red change the Value to 0 in Red and 100 in Blue. 8- in Blue change the Value to 0 in Blue and 100 in Red. 9- choose Hue/Saturation... 10- change from Master to Cyans. 11- change Saturation to -100 12- change the lightness to 100 13- work with your photo as much as you like. what give is the basics, for more, google Infrared Photography tutorials and you'll find great learning stuff. hope I was helpful.

First off, the seller (for me) was in Australia so I was concerned that it would take a long time. However, the seller to the best of my calculation, shipped the same day as the order was placed. The package very quickly came in good shape, and the product had the factory seals intact. And the product was nicely priced considering the distance shipped. So, thank you to the seller. Now for the filter: If you like taking striking images, and having a somewhat-familiar but seemingly other-worldly feel to them, then IR photography is something you must try! The very first images that I took with an X-T4 with a 16-80mm f/4, were hand-held, in fully automatic mode and seemed to be about 1/4 second for the shutter (I assume the aperture was also pretty wide). None of them came out blurry, as I did try to really hold steady. Since I had company coming, I just quickly snapped some images of some puffy-white clouds, first in color-mode then B&W, and they all came out just stunning. I was so taken by the perfectly exposed images, I kept looking at them, and looking at them until I was running late for my company! [And I do not seem to have the light spot in my lense like I've seen on many other lenses.] When company left, I again looked at them because they are just so striking. Now, I made no effort at composition, or camera settings or the elimination of incidental unwanted objects in the pictures; but what I was left with, was that this indeed has potential to both inspire and open up a long running vocation. Now, after more experience, I do want to say that you really want a super bright, hot, probably miserable day to really get all the objectry of the shot to do its IR thing. One of the shots that I took, were toward it being cloudy and the effect was markedly reduced. And, this is so cool when you think about it because normally, for the most part, you really are shut down in the midday sun as far as prime landscape photography goes. And so, if you switch to IR you then can just keep composing and shooting. Also, we all think of composition and how we are going to approach a scene. After being in photography for nearly 50 years, (and yes I did shoot Kodak's IR film but did not have the proper filter to really make it work right) you tend to be a little ho-hum about composing since you generally know what your going to get. Well, you can throw a lot of what you know aside, because this will really change how you look at potential subjects--it's that profound! I found myself so excited with renewed sense of curiosity! So, you might ask: "What can you compare this with in your experience?" Well, the first thing that comes to mind, is shooting with Panatomic-X (ASA-32) B&W 4x5" film with a #25 Red filter. When you do this, clouds will pop, the background sky get very dark and you get a slight other-worldly feel. And, when I look at a lot of well-respected B&W photos, I know they used a #25 filter, being obvious when you know what to look for. So, I do highly recommend that you buy one of these as well and coupled with a polarizer, you can really get punchy, high-contrast old-school Agfa-like film effects. It is like a less severe IR filter, that will give you subtlety shifted images where the IR is really another planet! Cons: The only thing that concerns me is the focus shift between natural light and IR. They used to put a red-dot and/or red markings on the lens, showing you how to compensate. All of the shots I've taken so far are at infinity. So, I will have to see how hard it is to focus near-objects. In closing, if you want to reinvigorate your hobby, or get into making striking images--especially modifying in post, then you owe it to yourself to get this filter. I've already decided that this IR filter will be a permanent part of my kit, and I will endeavour to try and shoot IR when I can't shoot in enhanced normal light. Hope you have a great time, and I can't imagine you'll ever be disappointed...

Works fine

After reading reviews all across the web, the concensus was that this is the best all-purpose Infrared filter for photography - digital photography in my case. It is also a reasonably priced. I ordered mine and got it quickly, and tried it out right away. The user photos above are ones I took when I did some of my first tests. On a tripod and with the proper settings, this filter does what it is supposed to and does it well. It darkens the sky and lightens the foliage (Woods effect). It gives images an otherworldy appearance that many find appealing. I know that I will be using it quite a bit for my nature photography. Thank you Hoya! EDIT 08/07/2014: I just wanted to clarify that you do not need an infrared modified camera to capture IR photos using this filter. It will work on a standard digicam, though results will vary from camera to camera. Some may exhibit a "hot spot" (brigther central area) and exposure times are long si will require the use of a tripod. If it is windy, some foliage may blur, but that also can be interesting. If you want to capture infrared images of people and other subjects using a more standard exposure time, you will need an IR modified camera.

Ce filtre est très opaque et ne laisse rentrer que très peu de lumière (les rayons infrarouges). Le D5300 étant dépourvu de filtre passe-bas (qui bloque habituellement les infrarouges), la luminosité est assez bonne, même en vidéo. Et le résultat est incroyable. En revanche la livraison a eu deux jours de retard, ce n'est pas très grave en soi, mais assez étrange puisque le colis a mis 4 jours à être expédié...

As expected. Top class product.

Cela faisait un moment que je voulais me lancer dans l'infrarouge. J'ai donc commandé ce filtre en 77mm pour l'adapter à tous mes objectifs avec des adaptateurs. J'ai un Nikon D5200 non modifié (donc avec son filtre anti-IR toujours présent). Malgré tout, il n'y a aucun problème pour l'IR avec ce boitier. J'ai pu faire une photo potable en plein soleil avec 1 seconde de pause (au-delà ça cramait). Je pense même que j'aurais pu régler avec un temps d'exposition plus court. Dans tous les cas, un temps d'exposition assez long et donc un trépied sont indispensables. L'image est visible avec le liveview. Donc pas besoin de pré-cadrer et mettre le filtre ensuite. Il est tout a fait possible de cadrer une fois le filtre positionner. La photo qui en ressort est bien rouge. Mais avec un petit traitement sur Lightroom et GIMP, mes premiers essais sont prometteurs. La retouche est essentielle pour ce type de photo et il y a du boulot important à chaque fois de ce côté là ! A savoir aussi qu'il y a une perte de piqué non négligeable et que la mise au point n'est pas placée au même endroit qu'avec la lumière visible (il faudra d'ailleurs la faire obligatoirement en manuel). Bref, tout à apprentissage à revoir. C'est ça aussi qui rend la chose excitante ! Autre chose aussi à savoir avant de se lancer (chose que je ne savais pas) : tous les objectifs ne sont pas compatibles avec l'infrarouge. En effet, ces derniers sont optimisés pour la lumière visible. Or, cela peut créer des phénomènes de "hot spot" plus ou moins prononcés en fonction de l'objectif et de l'ouverture utilisée. Cela n'a rien à voir avec la qualité du filtre (ici excellente) ou le boitier, mais bien des objectifs utilisés ! Il existe des listes d'objectifs compatibles, moyens ou médiocre pour l'IR sur Internet. Personnellement j'ai fais mes premiers essais avec mon Tokina 11-16mm (il est considéré comme médiocre pour l'IR) et déjà à F/2.8 j'ai un hot spot diffus au centre. Il peut être partiellement corrigé en dé-saturant les couleurs magenta et jaune en fin de traitement avec lightroom, mais ça reste encore imparfait. Je vais faire des tests avec mon Nikkor 18-105mm et mon Tamron 1:1 90mm Macro VC. Je croise les doigts pour qu'au moins l'un d'eux sorte des photos acceptables à mes yeux. Bref, je recommande pour tous ceux qui aiment les photos infrarouge et qui sauront s'armer de patience pour tout ré-apprendre. :D PS : Le filtre est livré dans un étui en plastique transparent. Très pratique donc.

Inga klagomål här. Ett IR-filter som gör sitt jobb utan att förstöra några optiska kvalitéer hos det som fotas helt enkelt.

Se questo filtro IR è il più usato un motivo ci sarà. Funziona bene come tutti i prodotti Hoya che ho provato finora. Non descrivo come funziona il filtro perchè ci sono tanti siti che vi spiegano come usarlo, mi limiti a descriverlo per altri che vogliono comprarlo: solido, resistente e con la filettatura precisa, degno di un prodotto di fascia medio/alta. L'effetto sulle foto è ottimale a patto che le vostre ottiche non creino aloni al centro (tipici di questo genere di fotografia). Il vetro si pulisce benissimo senza lasciare residui di alcun genere, segno che il trattamento è completo su tutta la superficie. Fa passare solo le frequenze >720nm. Assolutamente consigliato se volete provare questo genere di fotografia senza far convertire la vostra macchina a questo spettro luminoso.