Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue, Quart

After using the glue bottle for awhile it is hard to open and close. The glue is the best I have used. Dry time is excellent I normally wait for 12 hours but at times I need it after 3 hours clamp time.

Just as advertised

Tightbond 3 is THE BEST, never fails, dependable stick, water safe, love it

I have used this glue for wood working for years. It's never failed to achieve a strong connection provided it is allowed time to fully cure. For me that is over night while still clamped. If you new to this brand, know you can depend on it.

A billion woodworkers can’t be wrong. This glue is the top of its class and has been for a long time. It’s not epoxy and it’s not CA glue. It can’t do everything but when used for its intended job, there’s none better.

Did what it's supposed to, though, does not taste good like the old paste we used in grade school.

very easy to apply... at least i can dilly dally before i attached blocks of woods together. easy to apply than what i have used before. so far used it on three exotic cutting boards for family presentations for x-mas.ii think i need a gallon going forward.

I'm something of a tinkerer when it comes to crafts. I build models, briefcases, artificial Bonsai trees, bows and arrows, furnishings, SteamPunk creations and more. When working with porous materials, I'm always looking for a good glue, but I usually go with what experts recommend.My bad.Experts always seem to recommend some esoteric substance the finding of which makes Indiana Jone's quest for the Holy Grail look simple and the using of which would confuse the hell out of Rube Goldberg. I have Indy's hat and Rube's love of complicated, but I just ain't got that kind of time.So after a total fail using the expert's glue when I was making some laminated wood bows, I glomed onto Tightbond III from an obscure website I was perusing for anything other than the witch's brew mess I had tried before (based on the expert's opinion). I've never looked back.I make reflex-deflex longbows (they look kind of like really long recurves, without as much recurve) usually out of hickory and bamboo laminates. I've also used rawhide laminates on longbows. The reflex-deflex longbows are glued straight and then wrapped tight to "clamp" and placed in a form that it will keep once the glue dries. I've made about half a dozen so far and only the "expert recommend" glue delaminated under stress. The Tightbond III stayed together, and still stays together.To say these joints are "stressed" would be a gross understatement. I'll shoot 400+ shots in a practice session and I've never had a Tightbond bow come apart. Those laminations are flexible (they have to be to bend while drawing) and tight. They don't slip or deform. I've never gone back to the "expert's choice" since.That was my introduction to it and since then I've used it on just about everything that it can be used on. Leather projects are strong and flexible, wood projects are firm and the hold is exceptional.It's important to understand how to glue the stuff you're gluing to get the best performance out of it, but for the record, it's the best glue I've ever used in any crafting project. Learn how to glue in the first place and this will be the only glue you'll ever need for wood/porous materials.