Titebond 5064 Original Wood Glue, 16-Ounces

I live this glue. It only takes about 30 minutes before you can remove your wood project from the clamps. Obviously it is safer to leave it clamped longer but I've taken some smaller projects off the clamps in 30 minutes and sanded etc without issue. Great glue.

This is good wood glue, and it will serve you well. There are just a couple things I'm gonna gripe about.1. The glue is too runny. Yeah yeah I know it help to get into all the nooks and crannies of whatever joint you're gluing, but it's just too runny. I always make a mess when I use this stuff, even for really small projects. If it was thicker, I could have more control over where I stick it on and I wouldn't have to sand off so many drips every time.2. The set time is too fast. Obviously this is a good thing in some cases, but I like to take my time getting the joint in perfect alignment before I lose the ability to adjust the pieces. Case-in-point: I was gluing together a blanket ladder, and all the rungs were glued into the right side rail. Great, now time for the left side rail. Hmmm... but all of the rungs need to be inserted at once, and there are 5 of them. Okay, I start applying glue to the first rung, then the second, and so on... now by the time I've glued up the last rung, the first one has expanded from absorbing the glue and I've got to hammer the bejeezus out of it to get it into the side rail. When I get the last rung in, the whole thing is crooked. But it's setting so fast that I can't hardly get the joints to adjust anymore. Glue is running everywhere, I'm losing a battle to this expanding wood, every second I spend adjusting the joints is making the bonds stronger, now some swear words are exploding from my throat, overall it's just not an ideal situation.But that's just my experience.

I've had better results with "Original" Titebond, than any other wood glue for wood projects that aren't going to be subjected to weather. years ago I had a bunch of clean pine & poplar scrap blocks that I glued & clamped using Elmer's, Gorilla Glue, Titebond (original back then) & a couple of others I can't remember. Then, I un-clamped the next day. The following week, I clamped ea. test in the vice & hit with a hammer to see which glue held the best. The Titebond joint didn't fail, the wood separated. Next best was elmer's white glue. The rest just knocked apart. And yes, I dampened the joint 1st with the Gorilla glue as per instructions & it was the worse in the test. Since then, I've tried some of the newer types of Titebond , but for my uses, The original has worked the best.

I did quite a bit of research about which type of glue I should ideally buy for repairs to long cracks in wooden cabinet doors. This seemed to be it overall. (Inside use so didn't need any of the fancier Titebond versions that are waterproof or designed for outdoor durability.) I'm very happy with how this worked. The armoire door I repaired with it looks wonderful (I used a craft syringe to inject the glue in the crack & then clamped the armoire door tightly along the length of the crack as this dried). I think it's probably actually stronger at the crack line now than it was before the door cracked, ha, ha! (I think I read somewhere that after this is dry it is stronger than the wood around it, so attempting to re-open the crack would do no damage to the glued area but eventually just cause another break in the wood somewhere else from the pressure!) Next project is a slim straight split in our Ethan Allen dining table leaf--I'm now confident to use this product on high-quality furniture!

No other wood glue compares to Titebond.As I’m sure many of you can relate, I grew up with the Run of the mill wood glue my dad had on his work bench. In fact, because of my poor experience with that ordinary wood glue, I never understood why so many wood workers used glue. In my experience, wood glue was a pain to work with and required a decent amount of effort to get results.Titebond is COMPLETELY different. It bonds at the molecular level and is actually stronger than the wood is on its own. Similar to how a good weld is stronger than the metal it connects. Titebond is easy to work with, doesn’t discolor the wood or stain, and tacks well to make the initial hold.Titebond is the product you’re looking for. Don’t waste money on any other wood glues.

An outstanding wood glue. I was really looking for a hide glue for Luthier work but I didn't know the difference in the Titebond line at the time of ording. If you whant a true hide glue get the one in the green bottle . Both are excellent glues in their respective catagories and put their competiors watered down versions to shame.

I read a different review that commented how runny this is and thought that should be a good thing. But I get it. I spend more time trying to clean up the drips. I have a cracked stool that I just wanted to reinforce. It’s a small crack, so I thought how runny this is would be good to get into the nook of the crack.Not sure about the adhesion, I’m sure I have the reinforcement I was looking for, but it is really runny.