Forester Chainsaw Tooth 9" Brush Blade with 3/16" Round File 2 Piece Bundle, 2-Pack (2 Blades, 2 Fil

I am using the forester chainsaw-toothed blades to remove brush from along a fence line. I have been working with it for about 10 hours of usage, and resharpen it after each use (hourly). The stuff I am clearing amounts to blackberry brambles, wild rose and autumn olive trees, honeysuckle, and the occasional poison ivy vine. It is making the job a lot easier than what I had been working with. I had been using a flat plate with three 'wings' that smashed their way through small woody plants fairly well, but any woody thing thicker than a finger it only wore through, and at 2" thick it didn't make it through at all. This blade just rips through stuff like a chain saw would. I have cut 4" trees down with the blade. It takes a minute or two but it wins; Every time. It works best at fairly high speed when cutting through wood. Once the blade speed slows back off, power up and attack the target again. cutting stuff at ground level without bending over is a major selling point, however, to cut through a wild rose bush that is 10' high and 20' long along a fence line this will require re-angling the blade in many planes to chop your way through it and into small enough pieces what's left is mostly at ground level. The downside is if you are cutting something woody and relatively thick (1" or >) and your angle is wrong it can 'run' on you and suddenly the blade be a few feet from where it was if you hit something solid (tree) on the right side of the blade. Keep a firm grip on the shaft with both hands when using it. If I am cutting wood I use the left side of the blade (that is rotating toward me and cut on the 'far' side of the target. I wear a harness that mounts to the drive shaft and that keeps the blade at a fixed distance from me so I _think_ I am safe, but beware of the blade, it is wicked and would require a hospital visit and lots of recoup time if it hit you. It would rip a foot mostly off in a heartbeat. It will also rip right through barbed wire and cow fencing. It also can create a LOT of stuff to clean up VERY quickly which has its pros and cons. I've worn my help out more than once. It throws chips all over the place, wear long sleeves, steel-toed boots, heavy gloves, a face screen, hearing protection and eye protection - I also wear a neck gaiter to try and avoid the spatter. Keep people a good distance away to avoid throwing stuff at them. I have to resharpen frequently because I hit the ground a lot and that dulls the blade quickly, but a 3/16 round file or other chainsaw sharpening tool does the trick. I use a 3/26" sharpening cylindrical stone on a Dremel tool that works well for me. If it isnt cutting well, take the time to sharpen it... work will go much faster and safer with sharp well maintained tools. On my Stihl 131 kombi power head with a 9" forester blade, the fence line is looking better day by day (but I have a couple of miles of fence line to do... hence the serious tools to attack the problem). I am pretty confident you will like blade this assuming your string trimmer motor is hefty enough to drive it. Of course you should inspect it carefully after hitting something solid (rock, metal, etc).

Bought an FS 131 to do yard trimming and clear underbrush in my forest. Got this blade for the brush and saplings in the overgrown areas. It's great for cutting them off low enough to clear my mower deck. As long as you have enough motor, this thing will go to town on small trees. Cuts up to 1" just like you would cut weeds. Larger ones up to 4" take deliberate effort and can kick back, but kickback on mine is mild. Kicking into a tree I dont intend to take a big chunk out of is the problem I am having mostly. Got the 2 pack because I know I'm going to push it hard, and I want a backup in case I hit something so I don't have to stop to sharpen it. The files that came with it are great, but it's still a good 30 minute job to resharpen it. I still have the guard on, but it limits what I can get at. The guard is probably coming off once I get the hang of it. Blade seems well made, heavy steel, but it gives my 36cc motor and clutch a workout spinning it up. I think it would smoke the clutch on a smaller trimmer, and break the shaft on a bent shaft trimmer. Anyway I love it, and I think it's gonna pay for itself very quickly around my place, since you can just resharpen whenever it gets dull.1 YEAR UPDATE - This thing really got my underbrush 'under control' in no time!! I use it a couple of times a week, it's still going strong!! I haven't even used my second blade once yet, the first one is going great, the first file is still sharp too. I wore all the writing off it, but it hasn't rusted or lost any teeth on me. Some of the rivets were a little loose when I bought it, so I took a couple of hammers and set all of them good and tight the first week I had the blades. That may have something to do with not losing any teeth, or I could just be lucky. The blade is still cutting right through anything hard, still absolute crap on grass, vines, etc. Two other things I recommend here are the Stihl C26-2 speed feed head, with Oregon 69-383 .105" trimmer line (round, green) - these 3 are working out really good for me. Line strength is all about cross section, and nothing has more cross section than round line. If you're paying for those fancy shapes or 2-part line, I think you're getting robbed . . .

It won't cut as deep as a saw, but it cuts just as quickly. Make sure you stabilize your machine.

It’s a beast! It cut 6 inch trees but a t post will knock half the teeth off of it. Be careful around steel posts. After I hit one and wrecked the blade I used my Sawsall with a pruning blade and had much better results

This thing absolutely devours anything rigid. It will cut right into hard wood as deep as the blade with no trouble at all. It doesn't do soft stuff well. So vines or leafy very small stem stuff will just move out of the way. You are better off with a tri-blade for that. Anything over a 1/4 inch and somewhat rigid though, and this blade will go through it like butter. Watch your orientation. One side is safe, the other will sling it away quickly. I waited way too long to get this. I tried the blades from Echo, etc. first, but they don't work nearly as well as this for small trees & woody branches. It takes a bit to spin up. It is a big blade. If you don't have a beefy machine, this may not be for you. If you do have a device that can spin it well, buy this right now. You will also be out in the woods laughing like a maniac (don't judge me). I didn't get my files though, which was a bit of a disappointment so I took a star off.

works great

Good quality and arrived sharp and ready for work. I was absolutely stunned with how awesome these things are. You know the dumb laugh you do when you’re impressed with how powerful something is and makes you feel unstoppable? Kind of like “ah, ha ha ha ha!” Tim the Tool Man Taylor type grunts but with a little giddy goofy laugh? Yeah, these will bring it out.

Works good