for Raspberry Pi 4B Case Supporting Camera Installation with Heatsinks Case Holder RPI Shell for Raspberry Pi 4B, Raspberry Pi 3 Model B+,Raspberry Pi 3 Model B, Pi 2 Model B & Pi Model B+

Fits perfect with the 3b (not plus)I'm so glad I found this... I was about to spend 3-4x on buying each part of this separately. Works with generic ribbon cable although a shorter one might be easier to fiddle with without kinking. 100% recommend

This is a nice sturdy heat sink. Took Elliot's advice and sanded the paint off the contact points. I have not overclocked the pi. Running a 24/7 4-camera Shinobi setup as well as qbittorrent through OpenVPN and it stays at a constant 46C in a 21C/70F room. The device is warm to the touch and is comfortably held in the hand (my IR thermometer give a reading between 35-37C). The heat can be felt on front and back and over the whole sink with the obvious warm spot over the CPU. It is connected to the network via CAT5 with wifi turned off, headless, and booting from a USB3 SSD.Unlike some other reviewers, I think the contact is tight with the chips. If I squint and peek in there I can see the thermal pads have bulged slightly along the edges.

Fit and finish is good, but the gap pad for the RAM and USB Host Controller is too thin. When assembled I can see light between the tops of the chips and the bottom of the pad (pad was mounted to heat sink before assembly).Honestly, this is probably not a big deal. I doubt the RAM dissipates much power by itself. As for the VL805 USB host controller, I see on Via's website the part has a large exposed pad on the bottom so I would expect it to dissipate a fair amount of power, but nothing like the processor.The protrusions on the heat sink for these parts are both 2.5mm off of the PCB (mounting surface). Both ICs have a height of about 0.85 mm so that is a 1.65mm gap. I would use 1.75 mm or so gap pad, but the supplied thickness is 1.0 mm.The heat sink protrusion for the processor is 3.2 mm off the board and the height of the processor is 2.3 mm so a 1.0 mm gap pad is fine here.

1) Drill two holes under fans (next to assembly holes) to route power wires into the case2) Clip the power connector off the wires3) Route wires through respective holes drilled in step 1 and out the back (camera connector end) of case4) Route wires 360degrees back into the case but under PCB5) Install shrink wrap but do not shrink yet, slide away from solder area6) Solder fan power leads to correct pin outs on bottom side of board7) Slide shrink wrap up to the pin and guard against shoring adjacent pin8) Heat shrink the wrap in place9) Close the case up

This is a great kit to protect and actively cool the RPi.Note: the included Allen or hex key wrench is minimally helpful on the included screws. Also, if you plan to use a HAT with this setup, you WILL need an extender or ribbon

the product arrived on time, the acrylic is cover with a protection film, there were no instructions but after assemble once, I did change the position of the bottom fan to avoid touching the top RPI, and the columns (don't know how you call it) I did install it upside down to have feet at the bottom, showing pictures of the final product, so far all good, for the price I will recommend it for sure

Plugs and case did not line up with any Rpi variant

Seems to keep me under 52C which is acceptable fro passive cooling. I didn't want fan noise and I am not an overclocker. It like that it does not block access to anything but it does provide good protection for the board. It is solid aluminum and even comes with the wrench needed to assemble it. Simple & low cost, just what I wanted.