Kodak Professional 100 Tmax Black and White Negative Film (ISO 100) 35mm 36 Exposures (853 2848)

I recently got into shooting film and wanted to shoot some black and white 100 speed. Based on the reccomendation of a friend, I pick up a roll of this Tmax 100. The grain is very fine and the overall quality and character of the film is great.

I really like tmax film. I really like the contrast it seems to have with my photos. I am glad I got a 36 roll as well. When you're on a trip or in a specific place for a day, it last a while which is a good thing.

Shot on an Olympus OM-2n

Old school B&W film for the Pentax camera - what's not to love about that. I develop the film myself and scan the negative for processing in Lightroom 4. Always get good results with this film.

I didn't realize it's hard to get true B&W film developed anymore...I had to send this to San Francisco to get it developed! Look for B&W film that can be developed using the C41 process (i.e., Walgreens) such as those made by Ilford. The photos from this film were awesome, but it take time and money for the developing because you will probably need to send it off in the mail somewhere.

Yes, Virginia, some of us still shoot real film; we like the ability to 'create', the ability to manipulate the negatives before printing and the look that emulsion film gives the photos are why some of us cling to old ways... somehow using the wonderful computer to do all the creativity is not the same. Just seeking to keep some of the tried and proven methods alive and well.

I'm a Pan F man for the most part; it's my favourite back and white film, and I love its fine grain and higher contrast than other B&W films. Everyone who knows my photographic preferences knows this: Canon cameras, Pan F B&W film, and Ektar colour film. Ahem. I'm a sucker for fine grain, and so when I saw that TMX is supposed to have very fine grain indeed, I had to order a few rolls and give it a shot. I exposed my first test roll of the stuff in an old Pentax K-1000 (made in Hong Kong, no less) and developed it in T-MAX Developer. Talk about your deviations from the norm. I'm still learning the art of developing film, but the prescribed regime (7:30 at 68 F in T-MAX Dev) gave negatives with excellent density (hooray for somewhat accurate metering) and serviceable contrast. More importantly, the negatives scanned brilliantly for use in a hybrid workflow. I'd recommend the now-discontinued Kodak BW400CN or Ilford XP2 for those serious about pursuing a hybrid B&W workflow, since those films are dye-based and work with the dust-removal algorithms of modern film scanners, but for serious B&W devotees, there is no substitute for silver-based films. Note that the box says "finest grain," not "non-existent grain." Grain is fine yet visible; your scans will let you know that there's some texture there but it's not distracting like it would be with a faster film. (Before anyone asks: yes, I do appreciate the utility of grain as a form of artistic expression, but nobody using a 100-speed film is going to be considering grain a part of the medium. Want grain? Push some Tri-X or HP5, or shoot Delta or TMZ.) Sharpness was merely OK, but I put that down to the glass I exposed this lens through: the SMC Pentax-A 50 mm f/2 was never known to be excessively sharp. With better glass, obviously, your results will be better. I shot this film, as I shoot almost all my B&W film, through an orange contrast filter (I prefer the Hoya multi-coated O(G) filters for this) to accentuate contrast more than with the standard yellow filter. This film wants a fine-grain developer, like Kodak T-Max or Ilford DD-X, to live up to its full potential. You can soup it in any developer, however, and get serviceable results with sane exposures. I prefer this film to its faster sibling, TMY, and I think I'll find it useful for landscape work where I don't need the crazy contrast of Pan F. Like Peppy Hare says in Starfox 64, just shoot it, Fox!

This is one of the very few B&W film rolls that contain 36 negatives. Amazon refuses to ship more than 5 at a time and I do not understand the reason for this. In any case having 50% more filming power in each roll saves a lot of hassle while taking photographs (without worrying about running out of film) and film development.