49000 36 in. Satin Nickel Aluminum U-Shape Screw-on Under Door Seal

These are great if you have to cut off a door and strengthen it with some kind of stiffening device... which is what these are. They are made of aluminum channel and will support the bottom of the door and the rubber gasket will weather-seal the door bottom. Much better than a threshold with a rubber gasket.As an example, one of my rental homes has an odd-size rear door. 2'8 by only 77" tall. I buy standard metal exterior doors and cut them off to fit such odd opening sizes, and then install the door bottom to stiffen the door. Works great. Be sure to use plenty of urethane caulk or Goop adhesive to seal the bottom and keep the steel door from rusting out.These used to be available locally in the big box home centers, but no store stocks them around here anymore. I am glad I found this online source. I may order 10 more just to have them for future projects.And, I just realized I am going to have to find a source for the rubber gasket... because that gets torn up from tenants putting a heavy rug at the door and the door the gasket rubs the rug and gets torn up.Best way to use this door bottom is to also purchase an extra-high aluminum (or wood... I can custom craft the wood ones and save money)threshold and then shorten the door to accomodate the extra height. That way it won't rub the tenant's (or your) rug and get torn up. Thresholds should always allow for this, but many of the prehung doors these days don't offer a lot of clearance, especially if you decide to put ceramic tile at your foyer for example, and raise the height of the original floor.If you have never shortened a door to fit a threshold or door bottom, keep in mind that you can use a framing square to scribe the hinge side of the door jamb at a right angle to the bottom of the door, and then measure to the threshold to arrive at the exact cut line you need to assure a positive seal.The door bottom is "adjustable" in a way.. meaning you can locate it after you cut the door off, rehang it on the hinges... and then find the way it fits best against the threshold before you drill and screw the door bottom in the final position. I prefer to scribe and cut the door for an exact fit before I put the door back on the hinges.

The product looks good and definitely has a good amount of material on its seal. It is excellent but unfortunately did not work with my inside flooring. (I believe my scenario is rare and most everyone else should have no problems). Getting the seal completely on the door bottom is not easy. I used soapy water and a lot of yanking. Unless you have previous experience mounting these, it's probably going to be best to install this door bottom with the door removed from its hinges. It's much easier to put on and ensure the seal has been cut to fit the full door length. You may also want to research whether temperature expansion and contraction needs to be taken into consideration.The seal was stretched when I put it on the door bottom and then shrunk back to its proper size after I installed it to the door. However, I did not remove the door from the hinges. I had crazy looking hinges, the project was taking longer than expected and I needed to get the bottom on. Unfortunately, the tile floor installers had laid the tiles too high inside the doorway where the door swings open and it prevents the door from being able to open sufficiently enough with this door bottom installed. I'll leave this door bottom on, remove its seal and need to buy a door threshold that instead has the seal mounted on it.I cannot cut the door bottom to allow the door to fully swing open. Then it would be too short when fully closed and not make a good seal with the door threshold.

The aluminum white-coated frame I got is perfect for its job, but the seal that slides in below is not the best. It relies on multiple fins around a flexible bulb to seal, but that bulb is not reliably going to maintain its shape. Ideally it would deform in such a way that all of the fins would form a seal, but there were points along the door where it snagged, and the fins weren't flush with the ground.I fixed the issue by filling the inside of the seal with another rubber piece of weatherstripping, to ensure that it can better maintain its volume.

When I took the old seal off the door I noticed the channel ends were crimped slightly, holding the rubber in place. With the new, the rubber is slightly loose. To overcome this, slightly crimp the inside of the channel and the rubber is held secure and doesn’t move. Sealed the door gap tightly!

This would be excellent, except the rain guard runs too far to the edge. Older models/other very similar products have the rain guard end about half an inch before the edge. That allows you to install this on doors that have trim and weather sealing around the edge. This was just a piece of extrusion with the rain guard running edge to edge, so I had to cut off the excess rain guard myself. Zero fun.Also, the edges of the extrusion were not chamfered or post processed, so they were razor sharp. I cut myself pretty badly sliding the weather seal into the extrusion. Thank you so much for not taking two seconds to clean up you product, MD Building Products!Finally my kit was missing one screw. Generally it is a good idea to add one extra screw in case this happens. I had to use one old screw that doesn't match for the final screw hole, making the end install look quite a bit worse.If they didn't screw up the seemingly easy stuff this would be a five star product.