K Tool International70081 45 Degree Automotive Brake Line Flaring Tool Set for Garages, Repair Shops, and DIY, Single, Double, and Bubble Flares, Vise-Mounted, T-Handle Clamp, Turret-Style Design

If you are sick of the $20 kit for doing brake lines, this might be the tool for you!Best way I have made brake lines, that works consistently.Pros:Works consistently every timeDoesn't deform the pipe since the dies are precision pieces that have an excellent fit.Also minimizes scoring on specially coated lines, will minimize anti rust coating being destroyedDoes every type of break flare that I think I will ever need.Has a nice storage case.Everything on the forming head is clearly labeled.Clamp system is adequate and makes the job very quick, put a flare on a piece of pipe inside of 30 seconds with prep work.Doesn't take a lot of effort to form the flares, you can feel it's natural stop point.Built in flushing tool to set the proper depth on the line before locking it down for forming.Cons:Price is a bit much, but it is almost worth it just for the convenience and having a tool that you probably wont break.Cannot do lines on the car, at least I wouldn't recommend to try.You will need to bend and form the line before using the tool and leave about 1.5" to fit the end of the line with a fitting in the die.Other thoughts, you'll want a nice table vice that it mounted to something to use this tool and hold it will pulling the bar to compress and form the flares.Used this to replace the hard lines running to the rear of a 2005 Chevy Impala from the master cylinder on back to where they branch off to the left and right sides. Used Poly-Armour line and a bunch of fittings (different sizes) to get the job done, works great no leaks first time! If you are forming your own brake lines, try and remove them from the car without distorting the natural bends and curves in the pipe. Then straighten out a piece of new brake line and twisty tie it the the old one and every few inches bend and form it to match tying off the done sections, if you do it right it should be perfectly side by side with the piece you are trying to match. It should have little to no gap using this method and keep the straight sections very straight. It beats trying to eyeball bends, lengths, and odd angles that are in some of these lines.The only better tool for the job is the hydraulic flaring tool that they make, but it costs $300+ , but is a much more versatile tool and can do trans, gas, and brake lines.Good luck!

Throw away that cheap set of flaring tools and get yourself this tool now. I did and like others wonder why it took me so long. The final straw was trying to do bubble flares and having them all leak. This thing make’s beautiful bubble flares consistently and easily. Make sure the brake line is straight before proceeding and make sure you use a little antiseize on the end of the line before flaring. Then clamp the line in the tool, use the flat die to align the end of the brake line with the tool and then rotate the tool to the appropriate position. In my case 3/16 DIN or bubble flare. Leverage the handle to compress the tool into the brake line until it seats completely and you’ll have a factory looking bubble flare. If it doesn’t come out right it’s likely because the line wasn’t perfectly straight and centered in the tool. This tool costs more than the cheap ones but performs so much better. Bite the bullet and buy this today. It’s the same as the Eastwood tool but a few dollars cheaper because you’re not paying for the name.

I used this on 3/16 steel brake lines. It works great! It is extremely quick and easy to use. I would say the only downside to it is that it would be difficult to use with the line still on the vehicle but when working on my brake lines I didn't have a single bad flare. With my previous Rigid double flare tool it was not reliable at all to get good flares. This took the guess work out of flaring and makes quality flares! I wish I had purchased this tool a long time ago. Highly recommend!

I bought this flaring tool to double flare 3/16" stainless steel brake lines. The cheaper OTC 6502 flaring tool I originally bought for the task performed poorly, so I returned it and bought this much more expensive tool in the hope that it would do the job right. It arrived quickly and had everything I needed (except tubing cutter, which I already had) to double flare the 3/16" lines. After a couple of mistakes on my part, I was quickly making flawless, consistent double flares.In case you're like me and skim through directions and end up making dumb mistakes as a result, here are a few tips on using this tool:-Make sure the top and bottom flaring dies are oriented properly for the flare you're making. Each end of the die is used for making a different type of flare, so if the top and bottom dies aren't matched up, you'll end up with a lopsided flare that won't work well at all.-Use the OP 0 die to get the tubing flush in the flaring die. If you don't, you'll waste a bunch of time eyeballing it and may not be happy with the results.-I didn't find it necessary to chamfer the outside of the tubing, but I did clean up the cut really well before pressing it.That's really it. This is a simple tool to use that provides excellent results. The only negative thing I can say about it is that you need to apply significant force to the lever in order to flare stainless line. It would be nice to have a longer lever, but it's not impossible to use, and adding a pipe to it makes it easier.

I purchased this for making new brake lines for my MGA restoration projects. There was very little learning curve involved, and I was making good flares basically right away. Also the closest match for the original British Girling flares that I have seen from a modern tool, thus far. The instructions included were concise and the carrying case is sturdy, with spaces for additional dies.It could potentially be improved in a couple of ways... One, the seller could offer a 37 degree die set for making AN flares (which I think is offered by a couple other outfits elsewhere that re-brand this tool), and second, offer a mounting base that can be bolted or clamped to a workbench, so the user can keep his vise free for other tasks.