Adjust-A-Gate Steel Frame Gate Building Kit, Fits 36-60 in. Openings & Up to 7 ft., Black - Heavy-Duty Outdoor Reinforcement & Accessories for Gates and Fences

Directions well written and very clear. Very pleased with the outcome.I have already purchased a second one for a larger gate that I need.

I bought this Adjust-A-Gate kit last summer for a large 4 foot x 6 foot gate that I wanted to be the crowning touch for a shadow-box fence I custom-built for our home. The lumber I used to build my fence was not the typical flimsy cheapo quality you find at Home Depot & Lowe's, but was high quality 3/4"x6"x72" pressure treated, kiln-dried pine. Anyone who works with lumber knows this type of wood is not only strong, but heavy. Building a fence with it requires extra strong railings, posts, as well as an extra strong gate frame that will prevent sagging. This is precisely why I bought the Adjust-A-Gate kit. Assembling the gate using the kit was simple & straight-forward - just follow the written instructions, or better yet go online and watch the video! The instructions & video reflect that you can finish the gate assembly in 30 to 45 minutes by using a nail gun. If you I use screws as I did to install the pickets on the gate, it will take you took a bit longer. A couple of tips regarding this kit, I didn't use any of the supplied screws to attach the wooden cross rails to the gate's metal frame. I used the stainless steel screws instead as they are much stronger and will last forever. Also, the gate latch & stop hardware that comes with the kit were too cheap in quality for me, so I replaced those with higher quality ones I got from my neighborhood hardware store. Aside from those minor items, this kit is the perfect choice for making a strong rock-solid gate that will not sag and will last for years!

Strong good quality but can use a little modification to area on front to secure wood properly flush where 2x4 s meet frame

I think the concept is great, the major parts seem well made (the hardware, latch, screws, etc.… not so well made), and assembly was mostly straightforward. As for the instructions… They were fair – not the greatest, but far from the worst I’ve ever seen. Having pretty good basic carpentry (and logic) skills I was able to fill in the gaps. It appears that this set of instructions was produced for multiple models of gate; but the differences aren’t clearly spelled out in the instructions. The instructions also left out things; like including some sort of saw in the “tools needed” section, how to measure the 2x4’s, and how to plumb and level the gate.When finished my gate felt very solid and swung easily; but my gate is on the small side of the widths this kit makes, results may be different for larger gates. My opening is 40” and located between a block wall and a stucco house. My old gate had two 2x4’s attached to the wall and the house to act as jambs; without realizing that it would cause problems with the Adjust-A-Gate hinges I replaced them with the same prior to purchasing the kit. Consequently I couldn’t use the supplied screw-in hinges and I replaced them with bolt-on hinges (NATIONAL MFG/SPECTRUM BRANDS HHI N131-409 Gate Pintle, 5/58-Inch, Zinc) that had to be modified to work with the gate frame.Other changes I made were replacing the supplied screws with coated deck screws and upgrading the latch to one that could be operated from both sides. I considered changing out the truss cable kit for stainless steel parts but decided to wait and see if the supplied kit rusts first.I did some cosmetic things to the gate. All the wood parts were primed and painted prior to assembly and the metal Adjust-A-Gate frame was spray painted to match (using Rust-Oleum paint per the manufacturer’s recommendation). A diagonal hole was drilled through the center crosspiece for the adjustment wire to pass through. Handles were added to the front and back of the gate (A29 Hardware Door /Gate pull, Cast Iron , Black Powder Coat Finish, 2-Pack). Gate boards were secured with three rows of 1/4" x 1 1/2" lag screws and washers spray painted black to add some visual interest to the street side (yes, this is overkill when it comes to fastening – it was mostly decorative). The gate boards were allowed to run long at the top and were cut into an arc with a jig saw after the gate was finished. The last board on the hinge side was allowed to run wide of the gate by about 1 1/2” to leave a gap matching the gap on the latch side. Because the new latch interfered with its original location the gate stop was relocated towards the bottom of the gate and attached with a 5/16” x 2” carriage bolt.I am very pleased with the finished gate and would definitely buy this again if I build another gate. I gave it four stars rather than five because of the instructions and hardware. I would be willing to pay an additional $25 and give it five stars if they improved the instructions, upgraded the hardware, and added a label that read “Union made in the USA.”To summarize:PROS:- Simplifies the process of building a gate.- The fully assembled gate is very sturdy.- Allows the builder to customize the appearance of the gate with his/her choice of materials.- Is relatively quick to assemble.- A turnbuckle allows the gate to be pulled back into square if it begins to sag.- Works for a variety of opening widths.CONS:- Incomplete/unclear instructions.- Poor quality hardware.TIPS:- Consider upgrading the hardware.- Keep track of which Adjust-A-Gate side piece is which. Pay attention to the positions of the predrilled holes to tell them apart and which way is up. Once you’ve figured it out put a piece of tape on each piece with something like “latch side, top” or “hinge side, top” on it.- Use the straightest 2x4’s you can find.- During assembly measure the gate diagonally from corner to corner (and adjust if necessary) to insure that the gate is square.- Before screwing in the 2x4’s use a level to check the sides of the closed gate for plumb (side to side and front to back) and the top for level.- Use a scrap piece of wood taped the latch side gate post to act as a temporary spacer to maintain the gap between the post and the gate frame when attaching the 2x4’s. (I left a 3/4" gap to accommodate my upgraded latch – the thickness of the stack of five Home Depot paint stir sticks I was using as a spacer – if you want you can probably go narrower if don’t have that sort of constraint.)- It is easy to overtighten the turnbuckle and pull your gate out of square when you first screw down the turnbuckle.- When attaching the boards to the gate put a scrap piece of wood under the gate to act as guide to keep the boards even. Don’t do this if you are matching the height of your gate to the height of your fence.- If you’re going to paint your gate frame do it before assembly using spray paint and be prepared to touch up.- If you attach the gate frame hinges with the nuts toward the back side of the gate you will need to make countersink holes in the back of one the boards to accommodate them. If you face them toward the front side you won’t.- I used Locktite® on all of the screws on the gate itself because some of them would become inaccessible once the boards went on and I was concerned about them being loosened by vibrations from closing and opening the gate.- In addition to the tools listed in the “TOOLS NEEDED” section of the instructions you’ll also need a saw (a circular saw is a good choice), a tape measure, and a level.- When installing the wood post hinges into your 4x4’s you can use a large crescent wrench for leverage by putting the pin on the hinge through the hole in the wrench’s handle.

Installation was straight forward and a breeze. Metal frame is sturdy. Needed to purchase 3 horizontal 2x4 pieces, but was able to use the rest of the old pieces, saving money. When installed, the gate looks beautiful. One thing to keep in mind... If wet, the wood swells up and that is in wood's nature. During rainy season, my gate's latch is off by a few milimeters. Don't get me wrong, the metal frame is still strong and intact. To be fair, when the gate was all wood, the latch alignment was off by a cm or so. Having this gate gives me peace of mind. Me, HAPPY!Four year update: gate still holds without any sagging. It also functions as it should, smooth and quiet. The metal latch has begun to rust but that is because I have not been up to date with maintenance on my part. Overall, the gate still looks beautiful. I am beginning to think this is perhaps my best home improvement find on Amazon.

First off, I bought two of the adjust-a-gate AG-36 3 rail systems for my double drive design. They arrived quickly, but pretty beat up. The boxes that they came in had many rips and tears, and upon opening the packages, areas of the frame were dented. I could tell it wouldn't affect the design, so I kept them. Install was very straight forward; there was a bit of confusion as to how they were supposed to be oriented but eventually I got it figured out. The label says the AG 36-3 can fit up to a 60" gate. My gates were 59" each. The spreader bar (the bar in the middle that the outer sleeves connect to) was too short on both my gates to do a 59" gate. In fact they would only reach the outer sleeves if I had shortened my gate width to about 55". A notable consideration. That is my only real complaint about the gate itself. I ended up obviously not using the spreader bars but decided they didnt contribute that much to structural strength. In summary, I highly recommend the use of this product for your next gate!

Ordered this had no issue was easy to use

Just installed it on the weekend, and it looks great. Very good and clear instructions, and installation was easy. Be sure to measure the height of your fence first, as you don't want to have too small of a gate frame.

Some wood, bolts & screws and you'll have a gate built in a few hours.Way to easy to do. Comes with everything except the wood.