Dash Cam Hardwire Kit,Type-C Hard Wire Kit,USB C Hard Wire Kit Fuse for Dashcam, Plozoe 12V-24V to 5V Car Dash Camera Charger Power Cord, Gift 4 Fuse Tap Cable and Installation Tool（11.5ft）

Just what I needed. The correct 90° angle plug and easy to wire in. Comes with everything you'll need to wire in with quick taps. I went ahead and spliced the wires in with the police wiring my car has (retired police car) since there was an ignition wire. Works perfect!

Works perfectly. Great amount of cable to work with. Prybar helped a lot. Great little kit.

A Game-Changer for Dash Cam Users - Plozoe's Hardwire Kit Delivers Uninterrupted Security! As someone who's always on the road, I've found the Plozoe Dash Cam Hardwire Kit to be an absolute lifesaver. This kit is like the Swiss Army knife of power solutions for dash cams – versatile, reliable, and packed with features. Ease of Installation: First off, the installation process was a breeze. The included crowbar and fuse tap cables made it feel like I was playing a spy in a high-tech movie – except I was just neatly tucking wires into my car. No more messy cables, and my cigarette lighter is finally free for other gadgets! 24/7 Surveillance Perfection: This kit means business when it talks about 24-hour surveillance. Hooked up to my car's battery, it keeps my dash cam (a Rove R3, in my case) powered even when the car is off. What’s more comforting than knowing your car is under watchful eyes even as you sleep? Safety Features Galore: The built-in safeguards against current overload and overheating give me peace of mind. Plus, the automatic cut-off at low battery voltages ensures I'm never stranded with a dead car battery. This kit doesn't just power my dash cam; it protects my car's battery too. Universal Compatibility: I was impressed by its wide compatibility. It works seamlessly with a variety of dash cams, GPS devices, and even radar detectors. It's like the universal donor of power supplies! The Verdict: The Plozoe Dash Cam Hardwire Kit is more than just an accessory; it's a necessity for anyone serious about their vehicle's security. With its easy installation, robust safety features, and universal compatibility, it's not just a purchase but an investment in your peace of mind. My car feels incomplete without it now! Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ "An essential upgrade for any dash cam user – Plozoe's got your back, 24/7!"

The installation of this went fairly smoothly, though the fuse puller provided is useless on the tiny fuses that my car uses. 90% of my install time was spent contorting myself under the dash, struggling to pull a teeny little fuse that was wedged in with about 50 others in my fuse panel. The fuse puller provided works on all other sizes of fuses, but is useless on those! Once I got that little sucker pulled, the rest went smoothly. I'm glad to have this installed so my dashcam can record 24/7. This would have been a very easy install (and a 5-star review) if an appropriate fuse puller had been provided.

Worked on my VIOFO a229 pro dashcam very minimal tools needed to install had to use a different fuse from the one my car takes as the slots were recessed.

This item exceeded my expectations. It works exactly as described and feels well made. Setup and use were straightforward, and I’ve had no issues with it at all. It does what it’s supposed to do, and it does it well. I’m really happy with the quality and overall performance. Definitely worth the purchase and something I would buy again if needed. Highly recommended.

Most modern cars have two fuse panels. One is located under the hood while the other is typically located on the driver's side under the panel near the OBD port. On my vehicle (2025 Elantra N 6 Speed Manual) the fuses on the interior (where I need to wire this kit into) make use of those nano style fuses that are very tiny. Although the kit includes a piggy back fuse lead for those style fuses, the included fuse puller is impossibly large to allow the fuses to be pulled. To make matters worse, there is no way to pull the fuses without making use of a fuse puller, which I do not have and was relying on this kit to provide. It was provided, but the smallest end of the two ended puller is not small enough to actually clamp on the fuse and pull it. That's where this ended. I wasn't going to sit one second longer cramped up on the driveway leaning in to the foot well of my new car and struggle to remove a fuse. No. This kit went back. I only give it 3-stars instead of 1 because the rest of the kit looked like it would have been perfect. In summary: If you have fuses that are anything except those super tiny ones, then this kit would likely work for you!

NOTE: This is not instructions of how to install this product. You do so at your own risk. Have a qualified installer install this as you can do, but not limited to, destroy your car, damage the dash cam or cause a fire. I purchased three of these kits and installed it with the AKASO DL9 Rear View Mirror Dashcam. It comes with a pry tool which is fine but it is on the smaller side. A separate pry tool kit may make it easier. A simple multimeter is also required as you'll need to find power with accessory or ignition (up to you) as will as ground. A screwdriver or drill driver may be necessary as well. Installation was self-explanatory. Before you unpackage the item, visually inspect your car and find where the fuse panel is located. In one car it was near the kick panel on the driver's side and on another it is located inside the glove box. Once I found the fuse box, I mentally made a note of how I was going to route the wiring from the fuse box up to the rear view mirror. This determined what covers I needed to remove. Open your dash cam kit package and verify its contents. I started by probing at the fuse box with the multimeter to find power when accesory is on. Then I used the included fuse taps. The fuse taps unfortunately did not fit on one of my cars so I just hardwired it into one of the fuses itself. I put it on the legs that sends out power, not the one that receives it. It's an added layer of security for myself but still it is NOT RECOMMENDED. Also found ground on a metal on the cars chassis. I used an existing screw that was on the car body near the fuse box. Also to be on the safe side I added an In-Line fuse between the red power wire going from the fuse box into the circuit on the dash cam kit. Used wire cutters to cut off the metal connector on the end of the power wire and then spliced the inline fuse wire in. Soldered and then used heat shrink wrap for wires to cover the splice. The circuit apparently comes with a fuse inside but I didn't want to take any chances. Took off pillars, plastic covers, etc. and routed the wiring up to and through the headliner near the camera. In one car I needed to unscrew the vanity mirror or other screws in order to give space to send the wiring through. This is an excellent product and I have not had any problems