A**M
LOOKS GREAT, RUNS LIKE GARBAGE ***SEE UPDATE***
This is my third printer, and I was excited about the size. The set up was the easiest of any printer I have bought to date, but this printers Y axis skips steps seemingly randomly. I have printed 9 test prints and have yet to get one to come out correctly. I have adjusted all the things you can and still won't work correctly. I DO NOT SUGGEST YOU BUY THIS UNLESS YOU ENJOY A FIGHT. You will be fighting this printer.UPDATE: I am now 3 weeks into printing with this, I have determined many of the printers failings. Firstly The way fan blows on the hotend RUINS PRINTS. you need to cover the bottom part of the fan, and increase the print temperature for PLA to 220. This will likely stop the clicking on the extruder for you.SECOND: The acceleration Jerk and Velocity settings are AWFUL stock. You need to change the jerk to 10 and reduce the speeds a little. All of these are in the Motion setting. Interestingly sometimes the printer will overwrite these back to the default settings and ruin your print. I still do not know why the firmware forgets what you change mid print, but Cura also will overwrite your changed jerk settings if you do not go in and disable jerk control. *its in settings on curaIN FINAL: Its a beast of a machine if you upgrade its firmware. IM LOOKING AT YOU ANET... YOU DONE DID FAIL AT YOUR JOB. You can't just load stock settings from an Anet A8 onto a machine this size. Reduce the jerk and tune your printers. Contact me and I will send you correct settings to make this compare to a CR-10If you download marlin, load a bootloader to the board (Super annoying) and reduce your Jerk this becomes a 5 out of 5. I will not change my rating until anet answers for some of this. If you feel you are up to a challenge it is a decent piece of hardware.
E**Z
Yes 4 stars. I loved it... until...
Okay, it was my 1st dip into 3d printing. I got the anet e12 supper fast. 2day standard. Love amazon.The printer didnt have a great set up video or instructions. But there was enough u tube vids to help me connect this huge beast of a printer. There was only 6 screws that needed to be delt with initially then some tightening of all others as a double check item. Hooking up the motors was the other issue. It was pretty logical as the y axis is front to back, x axis left to right and z axis up and down verticcally, but it would have saved me some time if the tutorial actually said.... This is were this goes. N that goes there... yes right there. Go ahead plug it in right there... u r done. Seriously... done. Hit print.I do recommend tightening up the y axis belt. Nothing to it really, but it does save u a failed print 3hrs in when it jerks too much. Probably my fault initially, because my cura profile was default settings. Do a search for 3d print perfect figurines or mini figures and u will have a good starting point versus default, it gets rid of strings between travel points. Also the temp on mine worked best at 210 for pla.I did not get to print other materials.The 300x300x400 as a starting point was great again for a first printer.The sad part is that a few weeks in the printer died. I would've gladly replaced it with the same model but it was not possible tru amazon. So i decided i wanted a glass bed from the get go. Pricier but i know what i want after getting to use this one.If its a first printer i would definitely buy this. Even as a gift. It has a great garantee no hassle return through amazon at least for the first month. I think i would get the extended warranty if available next time.I try to keep the review possitive because a lot of poeple complained about this model. But really if there is any issue someone has already solved it online. The profile for printing is so important, down to making sure the models u r using dont have errors in them. Bed leveling. If u have issues initially on a print its the bed level. I didnt notice any warping of the x brace at the bottom but again i didnt have it that long. But either way u can add a glass bed to it. Or insulation below. Plenty of u tube vids on that.I only give it 4 stars cause i almost cried when it died....almost. u cant prove that i did.... I felt like i lost a limb. Then i returned it. If it wasnt for the fact that it doesnt have a glass bed i wouldve bought it again. N i would've given it 5 stars.Complete projects: Did wolverine figurine. Should have gone bigger. Did 5 lithophanes of the wife n i and a gift for me ma. One of the pics below has a big y skip but it powered thru. One test warhamr fig. Did the mods for the spool roller and the fan, though that one failed. I think it was the model and the y axis belt.I suspect it died because the motor back fed power to the corcuit board. But i could be wrong. There was one or 2 vids on this and adding a module to prevent back feed to the baord but i dont solder n i dont tinker with new products when they have a warranty.Thats it.... all and all i do recomend it.. as a first printer. I wish i still had it.
T**6
Great looking! That's about all.
Well! The printer arrived well packaged but was missing the black printing vinyl or whatever the material is supposed to be. I overlooked this because the printer appeared to be very sturdy and very easy to assemble. It comes with a plastic rule to adjust the Zed axis height. Once assembled, the Zed adjusted & the bed leveled, I printed a benchy. Great! I was impressed. Then it went down hill from there. The Zed axis height will not maintain a synced height between both steppers. Every print after that required readjustment of the axis. The print quality is very good if you can keep it adjusted. Something is very wrong and I will package it up and send it back.
R**Y
Underpowered Extruder and Y-Axis Stepper Motors
I liked the price of a CR-10 clone with slightly better features, and I had previously purchased an Anet A8-M Dual extrusion printer. I had good luck, and I have learned alot from my A8-M, so I thought I would stick with Anet for my next printer.One of the things that I learned was that for me, Glass is a superior print bed surface, and I immediately added a 12 inch x 12 inch piece of thin (2.2mm thick) glass to the print bed.When printing with speeds similar to my A8-M (80mm/s print speed, 120mm/s movement speed), I started to get significant Y-layer shifts. To compensate for this, I had to slow my movement speed down to 90mm/s, and I didn't have layer shifts anymore.One thing that I couldn't fix was the extruder motor would routinely 'click/pop'. This was often during a long, full-print speed section. I realized that the extruder motor was 'bouncing' backwards, or like the y-axis layer shift, was just not able to push the filament, and was losing a step. I increased the Hot-end temperature, shortened the bowden tube, and replaced the Bowden tube with a larger ID to decrease the friction for no improvement. I slowed down the print speed to 60mm/s, and it popped less, and I decreased the z-layer height to 0.12mm, and it popped less, but would still occasionally lose a step.I contacted Anet for help with this, and never received a response.Who wants to print something LARGE on a printer that can only handle < 60mm/s and 0.12mm layer height? Not me... So I have returned the printer.
Trustpilot
1 day ago
2 days ago
