Crazepony Spotter V2 Micro FPV AIO Camera 5.8G with OSD Integrated Mic FOV170 Degree 700TVL Video Transmitter 40CH 20MW-200MW Adjustable VTX for Mini FPV RC Drone

The media could not be loaded. These Spotter V2 cameras are the best bang for the buck. Durable for RC car rollovers & bashing. I also use to FPV drive RC cars & crawlers with Skyzone 04LV2 goggles. Simple combo unit with very decent lens. I have 3 of them. Inside and outside of RC model video is great. Be mindful of keeping airflow on the unit. The video (low res on box monitor, not goggles) has a cam on a Traxxas Maxx V2 bashing. This is my most beat-up cam of the 3 I have, & it's still working!

The camera works as advertised, and arrived a day early!I tested using a Black Pearl RC801 diversity RX. The video locked up immediately, and the OSD is a nice feature.As others have reported, it powers up at full power (200mW), and gets warm quickly using a 3s LiPo. However, it is very easy to drop the power as indicated by the OSD. I backed it down to 25 mW to test...No question, its a fisheye...the image is sharp, but I can't comment on color as I tested indoors at night, under domestic LED lighting. I will update after flying this rig tomorrow - it is tiny at 9 grams. So far, no complaints.

The camera in it's housing is quite sturdy and easy to mount and works well. The camera features a heat sink which I feel is a big bonus to help keep it's temperature under control. I also like the wide input voltage and the included XT-60 harness that plugs inline with your battery to power the camera so you don't draw from your flight BEC or have to use a dedicated 1S camera battery (or use a BEC) like many other cameras require.I am a difficult reviewer and don't give five stars unless something is perfect. My four stars is probably equal to five stars for many other people. I deducted a star because of the difficulty finding and setting the frequency/channel since there is no display. You've gotta love the instructions that say to look at the on screen display to set the band and channel... but you can't see the on screen display until you find the band & channel that the camera is on... and be quick about it while you try to find the channel because it gets extremely hot just sitting there without good airflow over the heat sink.

Works great, I ordered the V2 one, decent instructions. It does run warm on 200mw settings, no surprise though at it was sitting still. If it were moving im sure it would have ran so warm.. In the lower 100mw and 25mw runs pretty cool. I put it in my rc car and it ran good. I had it hooked up to the receiver for power and on the 200mw setting the screen would cut out for a second what the motor would start due to what i assume was a voltage drop, but on the 100mw and 25mw settings it didnt cut out. I drove my rc car around the house and before I knew it the timer at the bottom of the odd was at 25 minutes and not frequency wondering, picture was still clear set on 200mw about 80% of the time. I would buy another.

I'm not one get angry over getting a defective unit. It may be an excellent product and an occasional one gets out with a defect. I got one of those. The button to change settings was inoperative out of the box. So...make sure you use the product before the Amazon 30 day window expires. I got the camera and had to wait for the plane it was to go on so I didn't find out the camera was defective until it was too late to return it. The camera comes set for 200mw and you shouldn't let it sit there without airflow or it gets too hot. I missed Amazon's window and went to chat for product service hoping the manufacturer had a warranty. I was on chat for 35 minutes with Amazon service chat and the my chat assistant left and sent me to another person. I got the blinking lights and nobody came back to talk to me for 30 minutes so I finally gave up. SEND A DEFECTIVE UNIT BACK IN THE 30 DAY WINDOW OR YOU AR E DOOMED.More info. The button still does not work. But the unit came set at 200mw. If you have a HAM license that is legal for you. If you don't and the button doesn't work you can't change it to 25mw you are stuck.HERE IS THE IMPORTANT TIP. The picture would cut out most of the time when powered in an empty RX channel. I used the adapter so I could use power direct from the flight battery and I got a good picture with no real cutouts.

The camera that came on my drone had a very limited range for a clear picture and I had no way of knowing the specs on that so I wasn't sure how this one would perform. It was fantastic (granted it was set on the most powerful setting) giving me a clear picture from a distance that I could barely even see the drone.

I added this little FPV camera to my old AR drone 2.0, so now I have my dx6i controlling it and now I have the 5.8ghz video that works wonderfully with my FPV goggles.I read some folks having problems with the voltage meter (OSD) not being very accurate, some noting a couple of volts off what the battery actually measured.I also noted that some folks say you can just hook this camera up to a receiver channel (the camera connector fits the receiver pinout). I think this could explain why some might get an incorrect battery voltage from the OSD. If the battery voltage gets put through a voltage regulator before it gets to the receiver (like on my AR Drone) you will see about 5.0V at the receiver but the battery might be several Volts higher. This could explain the voltage difference between the battery and the camera's OSD voltage measurement. My solution for my AR Drone, was to hook the camera directly to the battery, then you should see a more accurate battery voltage from the OSD.So fast and easy to install, everything is in one unit, the camera, video transmitter and antenna. Lots of transmit power. Its a good day for FPV folks.