Weigand Combat Mount Compatible with Ruger Mark I, II, III, IV & 22/45 No Drill and Tap Scope Mount

This was exactly what we were looking for. Ours is a Mark II 22/45 target pistol. Installed easy and stays rock solid. Scope adjustment has not moved one bit. This has improved our enjoyment of the gun tremendously. We used to leave it behind when we headed to the range, but now we always take it with us to have some fun. We get around 2" groups at 50 yards with dirt-cheap Thunderbolt ammo, and shoot the heck out of golf balls put on the backstop at about 60 yards. (outdoor range)Another reviewer mentioned its large footprint. Yes, it is rather large, and does add some weight, but this is what helps it to keep the scope solid. If this would be a problem for you, a drilled mount might be a better choice for you, because they are built much lighter for obvious reasons. For us, the extra density seems to help dampen the slight recoil, keeping it on crosshairs better for the next shot.We didn't bother with some dinky square chunk laser scope or some weenie pistol scope. We got a big honking pistol scope for less than $100, and appreciate the solidity of the mount. Sight targeting has not moved one tiny bit. We zeroed it in and it has stayed put. The whole setup looks pretty cool besides. Now we call the gun the "Han Solo". Yup, nerd alert! People at the range think its super-cool, and want to play with it, and so do we. It's not left lonely and abandoned in the gun safe anymore, it gets lots of use now.

Bought this to mount something on my Ruger Mark III that would make it a little more useful for something other than plinking. Comes with a square dovetail mount (not shown in picture) that will replace the rear sight after removed. Google it if you are not sure how to go about removing the rear sight. Dovetail mount is a tight fit but follow the instructions and you'll get it in place. I used a small brass hammer and a drop of oil to do so. Two small set screws lock it in place. They also recommend a little loctite, which I used sparingly. Once in place, mount the rail (pictured). Rail mounted to dovetail mount, held by two screws. Loktite OK here too. Found rail to be good, tight and secure. Mounted the Field Sport Reflex Sight recommended, no problem. Am good to go.

Weigand scope mounts are well-know and highly thought of in the shooting community. This "no gun smithing" mount for the Ruger Mark series of .22 LR pistols is no exception. It screws to a provided block that replaces the dovetailed rear sight, yet extends pretty much the length of the receiver. I accepts Weaver-style mounting rings, and the spacing was sufficient for mounting my 30mm tube size Tasco Pro Class 3X power hand gun scope at the proper distance for optimum sighting. Since I purchased my scope used, it did not come with mounting rings, so I emailed Weighed customer service to determine if they sold rings to fit their mount, or could recommend a good ring. I was surprised to get a prompt reply for Jack Weiland, owner of the company - who answered my question!The instructions suggest driving out the rear sight with a hammer and punch, which I did after my sight-pusher tool would not fit the Ruger barrel and receiver. I did have to file the mounting block down a bit, as the instructions predicted, but it was no big deal, and quickly and easily accomplished.Prior to purchasing this mount, I was sing an out-of-production B-Square mount for a 25mm scope that clamps over the receiver of the Ruger pistol. While it raises the scope high enough to allow the shooter to retain and use the barrel's open rear sight, the low profile of the Weiland mount is more to my liking, both for looks and ease of use. It is also more sturdy than the other mount I tried.

I followed the included instructions and the online video very carefully. The night before, I sprayed the original sight with PB Blaster and let it "soak in". That did not help.Don't even think about trying this unless you have a very large vise mounted on a very heavy workbench, the proper hammer, and a very substantial punch. I used a 1/4" X 3" bolt as a punch -- after making sure the end was perfectly smooth. The suggested brass punch rod would not have been adequate. I started off using index cards as cushioning material as suggested in the online video. No matter how tight I clamped the barrel, it would rotate when the sight was pounded on -- the sight might just as well have been welded to the barrel.Using rubber tool drawer lining for cushioning worked a little better, but the piece still rotated. We're talking about some serious hammering here. Of course, if you keep on clamping the vise tighter, you are going to distort and destroy the barrel of the gun, and how are you to know exactly how much clamping force that part is going to take without bending?I finally solved the rotation problem by fitting a very large nail (more of a spike) through the pin hole at the back that secures the barrel to the frame. By bracing this spike with yet another hunk of metal, I was able to stop the rotation in the vise. Pounding with all my might, I drifted the sight out about halfway. When it refused to go any further, I reversed the direction of pounding to try and drive it the other side. This finally worked after a tremendous amount of effort, while having to reposition the piece about thirty times.Following the packaged instructions, I degreased everything. This was a mistake. Despite much filing, the mounting block refused to go into the dovetail, and it took more filing than "breaking the edge" (from the instructions) on the mounting block. I tried to drive it in from the other side, which failed. I didn't want to file too much off, as an extra thousandth of an inch might have caused it to be too loose (if that had happened, the entire shebang would have been ruined). I did NOT want to try and put the original sight back on the gun.I tried putting a drop of oil on the part. The oil lubricated it enough that I was able to drive it in with high effort. If the instructions had mentioned the possibilty that degreasing would cause this problem, and suggested a drop of oil, it would have gone much, much more smoothly. Nevertheless, oil would not have helped to remove the original sight.Anyone who says this is easy does not have my gun. It took three hours to get it in, with a lot of deliberation about the best way to proceed, a lot of repositioning, and a hell of a lot of pounding (with the same sized hammer they used in the video).Also, it's expensive, and it adds a little more weight to the gun than you might anticipate. I didn't check the price of having a gunsmith drill mounting holes, but I wish I had.On the plus side, the mount itself (the part you can see - not the mounting block) is very well made. It looks like it is an original part of the gun. Unless it falls off, it will be on there forever, because there is no way I would ever, ever try to restore the gun back to the way it was.